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Old 06-22-2016, 12:24 PM   #21
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I wouldn't worry about being 600 to 1k pounds over. These specs are always well under the design limits for safety reasons and rightfully so. Other than being a little sluggish on your inclines, 600 pounds over will feel no different than being 600 pounds under.
I don't think I would want to be in front of a jury, after an accident, when the specs were called out and you had exceeded them. Insurance may not apply when your over what the ratings are.

Bottom line, my family is more important than dollars, I would rather be overly safe than saying I shoulda if something were to happen. Over weight puts strain on every part of your vehicle. Just because you can drag it down the road, doesn't mean you should.

Good Luck on whatever you decide. Remember it's not just your and your family at risk it's everyone else on the road also. You may be successful 1000 times...and the 1001 the planets align and something weird happens.
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Old 06-22-2016, 01:11 PM   #22
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I wouldn't worry about being 600 to 1k pounds over. These specs are always well under the design limits for safety reasons and rightfully so. Other than being a little sluggish on your inclines, 600 pounds over will feel no different than being 600 pounds under.
Actually that's not true. You're talking a 1200# difference. When we bought the X20E and towed it home with our Trailblzer, it was at it's "as shipped weight" of 3900#. Towed beautifully. I was very excited. When we went camping, fully loaded that is, it was not the same experience. It was OK, but not stellar. That's at about 4500#. This was not my first go-around at pushing weight limits. The closer you get to the listed limit, the less capable it is to handle the weight.

If its sluggish on inclines, it'll be horrible on 6% mountain grades, and not so good in 40 mph head winds. The specs aren't only about performance, they are about what the vehicle's structure can handle before excess wear occurs.

I've done this both ways more than once and there is a marked difference in towing comfort when you have a healthy margin in your capacities.
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Old 06-22-2016, 01:14 PM   #23
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OP, I would give a call those guys

Towing Expertise | Introduction - Can-Am RV Centre

They are just experts who set up thousands of sedans / SUVs for towing. Andy Thomson is kind of people hero in the towing world. He is great guy and even when knowing that I will not drive to Canada to set up my car, he provided great feedback.

There is much more about the cars that make the towing stable than just payload... e.g. suspension, low center of gravity, short rear overhang, etc.
And make sure to ask Mr. Thomson to sign a paper accepting responsibility if something should go wrong and you get sued in civil court. I asked him that once on another forum and he would not answer the question. There's a good reason hundreds, if not thousands of RV dealers will not send customers out the door the way he does. Keep in mind that Canada does not have the "sue happy" mentality that the US does. So this really isn't an issue for him. He doesn't have to think about it.

I do understand the engineering behind much of what he's done. In some respects it's kind of cool. But there are realities of life that go far above this. He's honestly not doing any favors for people in the US.
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Old 06-22-2016, 02:04 PM   #24
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Sue can many, collect may few.

I am not trying to convince OP that his setup will work. I do not know this, I do not know his TV and the TT. However, I am pretty sure that if the guys at Can-am say it would work, I would believe this.

Signing papers taking responsibility?! People should be responsible for their actions. Therefore, it amazes me that dealers are acting as hitch police!

Everyone needs to do homework to understand the basics of towing. This is not the case on the US roads. Many assume that only truck can tow and proper hitch configuration, proper speed, etc. does not matter.
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Old 06-22-2016, 02:47 PM   #25
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Signing papers taking responsibility?! People should be responsible for their actions. Therefore, it amazes me that dealers are acting as hitch police!
I agree with that. But there's one word that applies, liability. It's the society we live in. Not saying that's right, it's a reality we have to deal with.

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Everyone needs to do homework to understand the basics of towing. This is not the case on the US roads. Many assume that only truck can tow and proper hitch configuration, proper speed, etc. does not matter.
I have experience with this. I have knowingly towed travel trailers very close to my max towing capacities with a minivan and a mid-sized SUV. I learned more about towing than I'd ever dream doing research to make sure I wasn't going down the wrong path. You are right, many vehicles can potentially tow more than they are rated for. But as I said above, towing with a healthy margin is a FAR better towing experience. Again, personal experience. Also,
I'm not the only one to have this experience. I can't tell you the number of posts I've seen over the past 15 years where someone was led to believe it was OK to tow a 6k# trailer with a mini-van and year later bought a 1/2 ton truck and raved about the difference.

Just because a smaller vehicle can pull that beast down the Interstate doesn't mean that it's going to hold up well over time. They just aren't designed for that kind of stress. It's about wear and tear and sustainability as much as it's about proper hitch configuration, proper speed, etc. Just compare the suspensions between a mini-van, a car based SUV, and a 1/2 ton truck. Which one do you think can stand up best to the long term effects of towing a large trailer?
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Old 06-22-2016, 02:50 PM   #26
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am surprised about the RPM mentioned for the Ridgeline. My Traverse generally turns under 3000 RPM on the interstate, unless climbing a very steep incline, but I do keep my speed to 60 or just under as that is all the TT tires are rated for. I've only had it shift down and turn 4500 climbing about a 7% grade.
I think that when the speed limits were 65 on two lane roads in AZ and NM we let speed creep to 70.. at 70 I think the increased wind resistance made the truck shift to a lower gear. We also were on Interstates with a speed limit of 75 and its hard to keep things down when there are semis going 80 along side you and in front and inback. Yes the tires are only good to 65.
On mountain grades( 12 percent between Oak Creek and Flagstaff) and Salt Creek Canyon and Escalante in Utah the speed was of course lower and the truck was not between gears so to speak. And there was no wind on that box.
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Old 06-22-2016, 03:09 PM   #27
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Trucks are not for everyone. I will never drive truck, no matter what. At the same time I am sure smaller cars can tow larger trailers as well. Maybe it is easier for me to accept this as I am from Europe where generally there are no trucks and people are towing large trailers. Many German SUVs has better brakes, better (independent) suspension, shorter rear overhang than trucks. All of this matters when towing. Sure, the payload, engine power, short wheelbase may constitute an issue depending on the particular trailer.

I truly believe everyone needs to use own brain to make the decisions.

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Just because a smaller vehicle can pull that beast down the Interstate doesn't mean that it's going to hold up well over time. They just aren't designed for that kind of stress. It's about wear and tear and sustainability as much as it's about proper hitch configuration, proper speed, etc. Just compare the suspensions between a mini-van, a car based SUV, and a 1/2 ton truck. Which one do you think can stand up best to the long term effects of towing a large trailer?
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Old 06-22-2016, 04:15 PM   #28
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I truly believe everyone needs to use own brain to make the decisions.
Agreed. I appreciate you stating you are from Europe. That sheds an important light on your viewpoint. Trailers are made very differently in Europe. And the laws and safety specs on vehicles are very different than the US. It's an apples to oranges comparison.

What's more is that if you have never personally towed with a truck, I'm not sure how can speak to their towing ability.
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Old 06-22-2016, 04:16 PM   #29
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Old 06-22-2016, 04:25 PM   #30
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So replacing the Acadia with a larger vehicle appears to be difficult when staying within our price range and current mileage. We must have 3 rows with 3 kids and car seat. We need to have trunk room so a regular Yukon is out. You can barely fit a bag of groceries behind the third row! The Yukon XL is HUGE and a 5'3 visibility for me driving that thing is difficult unless we upgrade to options like where the pedals can move closer to me. But the price tag to trade close to the same year and mileage as the Acadia is $10,000+ more...money we don't have especially after buying a TT...going up in mileage will bring down the price but then we are looking at ones with close to or over 100k...ugh

I did notice the Dodge Durango can tow up to 7,400 if you upgrade to a V8...and it has a third row option with slightly less space than the Acadia but slightly more than the Yukon...anyone have any experience towing with a Durango? Though I'm not sure I could ever get my husband to buy a Dodge...

Looking at the trade though now I'm back to sticking with the Acadia and getting a smaller TT...for the amount of use the TT will get vs. the TV it almost seems silly to trade just for that...but then looking at the smaller TTs I feel like the small ones will really feel cramped for us and as I said before, neither of us wants to do a pop up/hybrid. Just not our thing.

So now I feel like scrapping everything and buying nothing and going nowhere...just exhausted by this and feel like I'm just going in circles...

Thank you all for your feedback though!
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