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Old 04-13-2016, 07:35 PM   #11
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Lukenick1: you're doing great with your WDH in the future when loaded you might want to do more tuning, but I would drive it first for a while before you do more adjusting. Start enjoying camping with your kids, they will grow up faster than you think.
Get a couple of spare pins for the clips on the Hitch head too (where the bars goes in)
You can loose them and without them the bars won't stay.
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Old 04-13-2016, 07:38 PM   #12
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Lukenick1: you're doing great with your WDH in the future when loaded you might want to do more tuning, but I would drive it first for a while before you do more adjusting. Start enjoying camping with your kids, they will grow up faster than you think.
Get a couple of spare pins for the clips on the Hitch head too (where the bars goes in)
You can loose them and without them the bars won't stay.
Thank you ALJO...you are right, I am stressing over this so much. I just want to enjoy. Which pins for the hitch head are you referring to? My bars lock up in place by pushing them up. I have the Reese Pro Series 49902
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Old 04-13-2016, 07:49 PM   #13
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Do you guys think I even need to use the WDH? I'm not that off based on my measurements hitched with it.
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Old 04-13-2016, 07:58 PM   #14
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Yes it is a nice Hitch setup. The hitch head has to chrome springs on them and those little pins you can loose. Beautiful house on the back ground, but your TV-TT setup looks nice.
When raising my family when the camping season started, every Friday at noon we picked up the kids from school and went camping. I had my own business so I could set my own time.
Hope this is my last Jay Feather I putting a lot of work into it to make it a 4 season unit.
I love doing it (just warned my body not to complain) and at least when I do it I know things are done right. Can't believe how the RV mfg's can get away with things they do.
Seems in the 70's and 80's quality was better (also smaller mfg's who built them).
Now it is al greed and poor workmanship. But ehfin we have to live with it.
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Old 04-13-2016, 08:02 PM   #15
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Ok thanks.....didn't realize those could fall out. I must admit I have a heck of a time locking in the spring bars, I don't have the arm strength to jam them up into it. ha ha Also, should I always lower my jack foot onto a wood block or brick? Does doing that give me more height to jack up the back of thee truck?
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Old 04-13-2016, 08:13 PM   #16
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Ok thanks.....didn't realize those could fall out. I must admit I have a heck of a time locking in the spring bars, I don't have the arm strength to jam them up into it. ha ha Also, should I always lower my jack foot onto a wood block or brick? Does doing that give me more height to jack up the back of thee truck?
You are using the cheater pipe that gives you leverage when you're locking in the spring bars, aren't you? And since you most likely are, if you want to make it easier to lock in, after connecting the hitch to the truck, lower the tongue jack and lift the tongue up. It'll make locking the WDH spring bars into place a whole lot easier.

And don't forget to raise the tongue jack and remove the foot before you drive off.
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Old 04-13-2016, 08:18 PM   #17
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Just use one flat wood block (12 x 12 x 4] for safety. Wood is soft and the jack pad will dig into the wood a little. Never use 2 pieces wood under the jack as they might slide when the trailer moves. For the bars try using a longer handle or eat more spinach's.......lol.
When my daughter lift the bar I have an extended insert what makes leverage for her easier. As long I still can put my 95 lbs. generator on the tailgate I don't need the extension yet. Just make things easy for yourself.
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Old 04-13-2016, 09:35 PM   #18
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Just use one flat wood block (12 x 12 x 4] for safety. Wood is soft and the jack pad will dig into the wood a little. Never use 2 pieces wood under the jack as they might slide when the trailer moves.
If the wheels are properly chocked, the trailer shouldn't move. If it does, then that is a safety issue. Once The tt is leveled side to side, the next thing that should be done is the wheels chocked, 2 chocks on each side. Then the tv can be unhooked from the tt.

Using blocks under the jack is fine. Have a few different combinations that will work with various camp sites. Some may be sloped some, and you need to raise the tongue higher. Some may be sloped where you need to drop the tongue almost all the way on the ground. Depending on the site, I will use a 4x6, a 6x6, the 6x6 (or a 4x6) sitting on 2-4x6's: the 4x6's on the ground next to each other with the 6x6 (or 4x6) on top. Or maybe just a 2x6 if that is all that is needed once unhooked to level the trailer without extending the jack very high. All are about 10" long. Just don't stack so many that you can't lower the tongue enough to level the trailer.

You will want the "base" to be wider than the top. Don't stack a 4x4 on top of a 4x4 for example.
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Old 04-13-2016, 09:37 PM   #19
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If the wheels are properly chocked, the trailer shouldn't move. If it does, then that is a safety issue. Once The tt is leveled side to side, the next thing that should be done is the wheels chocked, 2 chocks on each side. Then the tv can be unhooked from the tt.

Using blocks under the jack is fine. Have a few different combinations that will work with various camp sites. Some may be sloped some, and you need to raise the tongue higher. Some may be sloped where you need to drop the tongue almost all the way on the ground. Depending on the site, I will use a 4x6, a 6x6, the 6x6 (or a 4x6) sitting on 2-4x6's: the 4x6's on the ground next to each other with the 6x6 (or 4x6) on top. Or maybe just a 2x6 if that is all that is needed once unhooked to level the trailer without extending the jack very high. All are about 10" long. Just don't stack so many that you can't lower the tongue enough to level the trailer.

You will want the "base" to be wider than the top. Don't stack a 4x4 on top of a 4x4 for example.
My trailer always moves/shifts when I take it off the ball. Am I not chocking right? Do I have to kick them under tightly or something? I just have the light weight yellow plastic chocks. I worry I will break or bend my tongue jack.
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Old 04-13-2016, 09:50 PM   #20
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A little movement can happen, but it shouldn't be very much. "Knock on wood" I have never had enough movement that caused the board(s) under the tongue jack to move.

When I set my wheel chocks, depending on just how the tires are sitting on the board, I will set one chock down on each side, either behind the front tire or in front of the rear tire. I then move the trailer "into" the wheel chocks some, set the parking brake and either my boys or wife will set the other wheel chocks into place. I then release the parking brake, and put the truck in neutral, allowing the trailer to "settle into" the wheel chocks.

If the chocks are "hollow" on the underside, look into getting a better set. Those will collapse after some time. Even quicker if setting up like I do.

Hope that makes sense.
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