Did all my measuring.........

[lukenick1]

These are the ones I have.....Plus now I bought the Andersen levelers too.

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-44414-Wh...=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

[lukenick1]

Originally Posted by SmokerBill

You are using the cheater pipe that gives you leverage when you're locking in the spring bars, aren't you? And since you most likely are, if you want to make it easier to lock in, after connecting the hitch to the truck, lower the tongue jack and lift the tongue up. It'll make locking the WDH spring bars into place a whole lot easier.

And don't forget to raise the tongue jack and remove the foot before you drive off.

Yes I am. I'm not talking about getting those brackets locked up I am talking about pushing the spring bars up into the hitch head. That is not easy.

[lukenick1]

I have decided to stop stressing about this hitch set up. I believe I am right where I need to be. After reading the owners manual for setting up the Reese Pro Series 44902 it says that it is better to have the front axles a little lower if not completely the same as the unhitched heights. I am within 1/2" lower than the unhitched height. I'll take it. As far as the ground clearance issue, I can live with it for now. I will just take precaution on speed bumps, pot holes, and hills. A trunnion hitch is definitely in my future but look how long and hard it was to get this set up properly, I'm not ready to tackle a different one at this time. I need a mental break!

[need-a-vacation]

Enjoy and have fun!!!

As for setting up a new hitch system, think about what you now know compared to when you first bought. You are ahead of the game already now!!! Lol

This chocks are very similar to what I have. The ones that will crush are the "stackable" type. I am not real familiar with how the chocks work on the Anderson levelers. So can't comment on how tight you can get those chocks.

[lukenick1]

True! I should be an expert! Only problem is my lack of tools.

[need-a-vacation]

Originally Posted by lukenick1

True! I should be an expert! Only problem is my lack of tools.

Lack of tools makes it tough!!!

[SmokerBill]

Originally Posted by lukenick1

Yes I am. I'm not talking about getting those brackets locked up I am talking about pushing the spring bars up into the hitch head. That is not easy.

Gotcha! Start lifting weights! And I think you did a great job setting up your WDH. Looks really good in the picture.

[lukenick1]

Happy to report I made it to the campground. Tow went great! No sway just a little pull with big trucks but I sped up a little when they came and that helped a lot. Only issue is my brake controller sucks. Tried setting it at home on the street and when I pressed it manually nothing happened then they locked up suddenly skidding in the road. They were so sporadic during the trip. Sometimes too sensitive, sometimes nothing at all and sometimes locking up. I spent so much time changing the dial. I'm down to 1.5. I have the Curt Discovery.

[LiftedAWDAstro]

You should look at swapping the controller for a Tekonsha Prodigy...A much better controller.

[tjpolsin]

Originally Posted by need-a-vacation

Based in your front wheel well measurements, it looks like you are actually transfering more weight back to the front axle with the wd bars latched up be no trailer hooked up. Generally the front wheel well measurement should not be less with the trailer hooked up with the wdh vs the truck only.

It could be the way the truck suspension "settled". A trip to the CAT Scales will tell you for sure.

Originally Posted by lukenick1

Ok did all measurements and here where I am at......thoughts?

2001 Toyota Tundra

(forgive me that I am not a math person and do not know how to read a tape measure ha ha ha)

Front wheel wells unhitched 34"+ 6 lines and 34 1/4"
Front wheels hitched no WDH 34 3/4"+1 line and 35"
Front wheels with WDH 34"+3lines and 33 3/4"+ 1 line

Rear unhitched only measured 1 tire 36 1/2"
Rear hitched no WDH measured both 33 3/4"+ 2 lines and 34"+ 2 lines
Rear with WDH 35 1/2"+ 2 lines and 35 1/4"

Does this look about right? My spring bars are hooked up with only 1 chain hanging free and 8 links under tension.

Height of the top of coupler with trailer level is between 18"- 18 1/2"
top of ball is 19 1/2"

All looks level

I think you are within 1/2" of spot on. my Reese WDH directions allude to a final set up of:
1. truck ball height 1 to 1-1/2" higher than level TT hitch height.
2. hitched w/bars attached - front and rear fender height within 1/2 of unhitched height
3. WDH bars parallel to TT tongue with sufficient links under tension (4-5) to ensure freedom of movement during turns.
4. TT level or slightly down in front.


on my hitch, tilting the hitch head one notch = 1/2 link of tension. I think you are with/in 1/2 link of good-to-go.
Tim
Reese strait-line hitch.