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Old 08-13-2014, 07:03 PM   #11
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It doesn't matter if the truck doesn't look level in the photo because it doesn't matter if it's level or not. The purpose of WD is not to level the truck, it's to return weight to the front axle to be determined by either hitched/unhitched front fender height or CAT scales. As far as the trailer, the hitch instructions are going to have you set that at the beginning so after the WD is adjusted, the trailer will be close to right. That can be changed by moving the hitch head up or down without changing the WD adjustment. There is no way to assess if a hitch is properly adjusted by a photo unless the truck actually appears to be level in which case, the adjustment probably is probably not going to be right.
It is remotely possible that after the WD is correctly adjusted, the truck may sit level, but it doesn't happen often and I wouldn't count on it. Also, after the correct adjustment is achieved, make it a point to resist well meaning but unknowing suggestions to tweak it or try another link on the chain to see how it drives. People who suggest that should not even be trying to adjust a hitch
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Old 08-13-2014, 07:50 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Bob Landry View Post
It doesn't matter if the truck doesn't look level in the photo because it doesn't matter if it's level or not. The purpose of WD is not to level the truck, it's to return weight to the front axle to be determined by either hitched/unhitched front fender height or CAT scales. As far as the trailer, the hitch instructions are going to have you set that at the beginning so after the WD is adjusted, the trailer will be close to right. That can be changed by moving the hitch head up or down without changing the WD adjustment. There is no way to assess if a hitch is properly adjusted by a photo unless the truck actually appears to be level in which case, the adjustment probably is probably not going to be right.
It is remotely possible that after the WD is correctly adjusted, the truck may sit level, but it doesn't happen often and I wouldn't count on it. Also, after the correct adjustment is achieved, make it a point to resist well meaning but unknowing suggestions to tweak it or try another link on the chain to see how it drives. People who suggest that should not even be trying to adjust a hitch
When the hitch is setup right, everything can be made to ride level. I've had 9 trailers and all of them when the hitch was setup right the truck and the trailer was level.
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Old 08-13-2014, 08:02 PM   #13
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When the hitch is setup right, everything can be made to ride level. I've had 9 trailers and all of them when the hitch was setup right the truck and the trailer was level.
What criteria did you use to determine the setup was correct and what did you do after the hitch was adjusted "correctly" to get the truck to sit level?
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Old 08-13-2014, 08:51 PM   #14
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What criteria did you use to determine the setup was correct and what did you do after the hitch was adjusted "correctly" to get the truck to sit level?

This what I did, everything worked out very well, also GM says that the truck should ride just about as level with the trailer hooked up as it does without the trailer hooked up.

http://manuals.adventurerv.net/Eaz-L...structions.pdf
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:49 PM   #15
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Even being on a slope, I think that your truck is nose high and your trailer is nose high too. If it looks the same on a flat section of road, I would add air bags to the truck's rear end (or increase tension on your weight distributing hitch... if you have one) and lower your trailer hitch ball position. The trailer should be level or slightly nose down for best towing experience.
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Old 08-14-2014, 07:00 AM   #16
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Even being on a slope, I think that your truck is nose high and your trailer is nose high too. If it looks the same on a flat section of road, I would add air bags to the truck's rear end (or increase tension on your weight distributing hitch... if you have one) and lower your trailer hitch ball position. The trailer should be level or slightly nose down for best towing experience.
I received permission to pull my rig into a level grocery store parking lot this Saturday morning so that I can measure/adjust as necessary. As this post has pointed out to me, there are many points of view on the topic of what is proper leveling. It becomes overwhelming. Since there doesn't seem to be a 'professional' in my area that I can just pay to do it for me (I don't trust the RV dealer where I purchased my TT), it's going to come down to me using common sense and applying the basic rules that everyone does seem to agree on (i.e. make the TT and TV level, and definitely not nose up for either). The other variable is, I don't always load our TT the same way each time we camp...sometimes we take bikes/air compressor/generator in the TV bed and other times we don't. What does always stay the same are the items that I keep in the TT storage compartments.

One other thing to keep in mind that might add to the illusion of my particular TT being nose up is that the design of my TT body slightly tapers upward in front of the tires. I notice this upward taper after I level my TT at a campsite. See the pic I found online.

I'll follow up to this post after I do some measurements/adjustments. I will piece together the setup guides that are posted on this site.

Thanks for all your input.
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Old 08-14-2014, 07:16 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Hitch Pin View Post
This what I did, everything worked out very well, also GM says that the truck should ride just about as level with the trailer hooked up as it does without the trailer hooked up.

http://manuals.adventurerv.net/Eaz-L...structions.pdf
You might want to go back and read the manual again. Pg 9-103 in the PDF manual I found on-line discusses this in a short paragraph and states that the hitched front fender height should be returned to the unhitched height. It makes no mention of the back end height at all or of leveling the truck. All of the truck manuals with the exception of Ford 2012 and newer say the same thing. I would suspect that the information in the owners manuals would override hitch manufacturer instructions that were probably written back when travel trailers were towed by the family station wagon. That said, it's your truck, and your hitch and you can adjust it as you wish. I just don't think that the members here who are unfamiliar with WD adjustment and are looking for information should be given information that conflicts with what they are going to read in their owner manuals. There is already enough confusion on this topic. It would also be interesting to know what your actual measurements are for your unhitched/hitched front fender height.
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Old 08-14-2014, 07:39 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by SmokerBill View Post
Even being on a slope, I think that your truck is nose high and your trailer is nose high too. If it looks the same on a flat section of road, I would add air bags to the truck's rear end (or increase tension on your weight distributing hitch... if you have one) and lower your trailer hitch ball position. The trailer should be level or slightly nose down for best towing experience.
"IF" the WD is adjusted correctly, he would not want to increase the tension on the bars and add addition weigh to the front end. That would add additional weight and could lead to premature front end component and tire wear. Conversely, if less than the required amount of weight is transferred, the truck could experience handling issues on slick roads.
Once the weight transfer is correct, the appropriate way to raise the rear end is with bags or helper springs. If those are added the WD adjustment has to be done again, as changing the height of the rear of the truck changes the tension on the bars and the amount of weight transfer.
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Old 08-14-2014, 09:28 AM   #19
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It would also be interesting to know what your actual measurements are for your unhitched/hitched front fender height.

I don’t remember the exact measurement right off the top of my head, but when I set it up the front fender measurement was 1/8” higher when hitched up than when unhitched. I called GM and they said that it should be no more than a ľ” higher with the trailer hitched than with it unhitched.

There’s one thing I know for sure, my truck and trailer are level, and not only does it look good that way, but it tows grate. Just about all of the rigs I see around here where I live, are setup the same as mine.



Watch these two video, this is how I mine is setup, the hitch that I have is a EZ-lift.


http://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-p...ion-49569.aspx

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Old 08-14-2014, 09:34 AM   #20
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i know this question, given the very little information i'm providing, is up for ridicule, but do you think, visually, my setup is level? My dad (based on this picture) thinks the back of my tv is sitting low. Note: My rig is parked on a slight incline.

I just swapped my 2005 f150 short bed for this 2001 f250 long bed. Prior to connecting the tt, i called the rv dealer where i purchased this tt and the technician said that as long as the height of the receiver on this f250 is within plus/minus 1" of the height of what my f150 had been, no adjustments are necessary to my reese strait line weight distribution hitch. I did compare the heights before walking away from my f150 for the last time and they are identical, so i connected my tt on the same chain link that i had when connected to the f150.

Unfortunately, my tt is back in storage, so i can't made additional measurements at the moment to confirm that everything is level, but thought in the meantime that i'd get others' opinions based on this picture and based on what the technician had told me.

If there are other adjustments i should consider making, based on the tv switch i made, i'd be interested in hearing them. Ultimately, i will take the time to place the rig on a level spot and re-check everything, but i would think that everything should be fine as it is.

you wont know until its sitting level... There is always play in the ball and also slight play in the receiver where it slides into the hitch.... That will make about a 1/2-3/4in difference depending on if your sitting level, or up hill or downhill... Also if there is more weight (ie eater tanks) in the rear and you are on an incline it may compress the suspension of the trailer more giving it the appearance of a slight sag in the back.
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