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Old 06-17-2011, 08:26 PM   #21
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Bob,

Just a couple of questions;

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Landry View Post
snip......You aren't going to want to hear this, but, the correct way, short of going to a scale, is to reconnect the DC, reattach the chains to the bars and select the link that puts the bars parallel
The re-adjustment (ball mount, chain links under tension, cam-centering, etc.) of the WDH to address any weight transfer issues can be done without removing the Reese cam arm yoke form the spring bar/chain hanger bracket, I do it all the time with both round bar and trunnion bar set-ups. This also allows one to address any DC clearance issues during the same process. Is there something I'm missing with the round bar application that a dis-assemble is required?

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Originally Posted by Bob Landry View Post
snip.......One other thing that I noticed after the fact is that the chains need to be pulled from a position as vertical as possible. You need to move the snap up brackets forward to do that. You may have to notch the propane cover to provide some clearance.
I do agree that ideally the chains should be vertical, but since the chain is stationary during TV turns the OP's present snap-up bracket position should work fine if he can't slide them forward in the event that the LP tanks steel base is in the way.

As you mentioned, in my DC set-up I did cut out the corners of my plastic LP tank cover around my snap-up bracket just for ease of access and placement of the cover.

Bob
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2016 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4.10
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2002 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4:10 (retired)
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Old 06-20-2011, 06:11 AM   #22
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Thanks for all the feedback and great advice. Based on the great information I've recieved, I think I'm going to do the adjustments myself this weekend.

I've noticed that the brackets aren't sitting in the pocket of the spring bars, does this affect performance? I've also noticed that when I go around a corner, I can hear what I assume is the spring bars rolling along the brackets. It makes a loud metal grinding sound, Is this normal?

Thanks for all the help.
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Old 06-20-2011, 06:29 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Sloan Ranger View Post
snip.......I've noticed that the brackets aren't sitting in the pocket of the spring bars, does this affect performance? I've also noticed that when I go around a corner, I can hear what I assume is the spring bars rolling along the brackets. It makes a loud metal grinding sound, Is this normal?.........snip
If you are referring to the spring bar tail radius placement over the top of the cam surface, then yes, it makes a difference. With the TV/TT straight and level the spring bar radius should be centered over the cam surface....., refer to the installation instructions for this adjustment. During TV turns the spring bar will move for/aft over the stationary cam surface.

Yes again, there will be a little noise during TV turns but this should settle down a little as the components mate together. Also use the same spring bar over the same cam surface (I marked my driver's spring bar with a zip-tie). On heavy spring bar applications (1,200lbs plus) a little dab of Vaseline over the cam surface will reduce noise and wear as well. Keep your hitch ball and spring bar sockets (@ ball mount) lubricated with grease.

Bob
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2016 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4.10
2018 Jay Flight 24RBS
2002 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4:10 (retired)
2005 Jayco Eagle 278FBS (retired)
1999 Jayco Eagle 246FB (retired)
Reese HP Dual Cam (Strait-Line)
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