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Old 07-13-2014, 08:56 PM   #11
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My 2014 trailer looks same and my blue ox WDH doesn't hit anything. I've never seen where the shank goes further back than the ball..
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Old 07-13-2014, 08:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robo59097 View Post
I think those are the tension bars not the shank
No it's the shank
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Old 07-13-2014, 10:23 PM   #13
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^^^ @ SouthCo -- I am not sure how you are orienting to the pictures, but that is most certainly the spring arm that you are thinking is the shank. That spring arm is inserted the trunnion cam which you can see the wear marks on top of as it rotates under the hitch ball. It took me a minute to see the pictures correctly too -- might have helped if we had on a bit further back of the whole set-up.
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Old 07-13-2014, 10:33 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 12VOLTMAN View Post
Thanks for the advice clubhouse. I'm glad to hear you're seeing the same thing I am. I already looked at some of the high rise hitch balls on the internet. I agree with you that this would probably solve my issue. My only problem now is I'll probably have to take time off of work to make the five hour drive back to the dealer to get it fixed. I'm amazed that someone who is around hitches daily didn't recognize the issue when he set it up.
You last sentence says it all -- DO NOT take it back to the same idiots who didn't know, or didn't care, enough to begin with. You can do this yourself. The hitch ball needs to be really torqued (250-300 lb ft I think), I had the local tire shop do it for me -- complimentary. The rest of the bolts you should be able to torque with a clicker wrench and do this yourself. If you don't have a clicker type torque wrench, you really should and keep it in the TT. Great for re-torquing lugs. You can get adequate ones a Harbor Freight for ~$30.

Just setting up the hitch one time you will learn so much more about your hitch and how it works and where to look for problems should something else happen in the future.

When I did this (twice now) I started by changing the hitch ball. Then reset the ball height by turning over and using a lower setting on the drop shank. Next re-set the head angle and swing arm bracket height. The last two steps I had to do a couple times to get it right, but the first couple are one and done.
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:37 AM   #15
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I thought about doing it myself. I'm concerned about getting a hitch ball that would fit the Equalizer head correctly since they do have their own ball. I'll have to check it out more closely to what might be different about it. And, I sent Equalizer an email explaining the issue to see if they can offer a suggestion. I do have a torque wrench so that's not a problem. My only problem would be that I can't weld so I would have to use one of those 'screw type' chain links to fix the broken link.
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Old 07-21-2014, 08:28 PM   #16
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Finally got around to fixing my issue over the weekend. After my dealer screwed up the installation so badly, I decided to do it myself. I bought a high rise hitch ball with a 2" lift and reconfigured the Equalizer hitch. I managed to get the front wheel well of my truck back to just about it's unloaded measurement while the rear wheel well went down only about 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch. And, the trailer is riding perfectly level. While in the process of going over everything, I also discovered that the dealer had one of the wires from the runaway brake control pinched between the trailer frame and the mounting brackets for the load bars. It would have been cut in half for sure if I hadn't noticed it. I took the bracket off and re-routed the wire so everything should be good now. I have attached a picture to show how much more clearance was gained with the new ball. No chance of anything pinching now!
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Old 03-22-2015, 06:51 PM   #17
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Hate to bump a old thread, but I found similar damage to my safety chains while preparing my Starcraft (hey its almost a Jayco) 26bh for our first trip this year. I have the same hitch and same points of contact, just not as severe. Can you tell me what ball you used and what you used as a spacer to keep the ball shank from protruding too far downward and interfering with the weight distribution sockets? Also, would a one inch rise give enough clearance, or is the two inch necessary? Thanks
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Old 03-22-2015, 08:03 PM   #18
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Hello, and welcome to the forum. I used a Curt 40087 hitch ball http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And I used two grade 8 washers that I bought locally to make sure the bottom of the shank didn't contact the hitch sockets. As far as the lift, it's hard to say if 1" would be enough. It might have been, but I wasn't willing to take the chance. I hope this helps you out!
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Old 03-23-2015, 07:15 AM   #19
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Thanks. This helps greatly. I may try the one inch first to keep the hitch adjustments to a minimum.
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