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Old 06-02-2012, 12:37 AM   #1
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Equal-i-zer hitch torque settings

The specs for the shank bolts on this hitch are 320 ft-lb. Most torque wrenches only go to 250 ft-lb. Do people have one of the high end wrenches or will 250 ft-lb be sufficient. I want to be able to adjust the hitch if necessary.
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Old 06-02-2012, 08:51 AM   #2
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owenssailor,

IMO I would want to be closer to the 320 ft/lb requirement then 250 ft/lbs.

With my Reese WDH the ball mount bolts (3/4 size) they have a 300 ft/lb installation specification. I torque the nuts to 150 ft/lbs, then I turn the nut another 1/4 turn with a breaker bar to achieve the 300 ft/lb requirement (per Reese).

Bob
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Old 06-02-2012, 01:21 PM   #3
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Hmm.. we are planning to adjust the height on our hitch this weekend.. I did not think about this issue.. I am hoping my dad has a tool that will work. He is a retired firelighter and always has a a huge wrench he calls "channel locks" in his trucks.. I'll have to ask him if it will work.
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Old 06-03-2012, 12:12 AM   #4
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I really don't think that channel locks on the hitch is a good idea. I would think that a half inch socket and breaker bar would work better.
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Old 06-03-2012, 12:34 AM   #5
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Ok. Thanks.. I will figure out how to borrow that..
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:42 AM   #6
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I also slide a little cheater pipe over the end of the breaker bar to make that last 1/4 turn on the nut a little easier.

Bob
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:15 AM   #7
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On occasion I write installation instructions and usually put in torque values not because it matters, but rather to avoid a lot of phone calls from customers asking "How tight should I make these nuts? Also, the mere mention of a torque wrench seems to forestall installation with less than desirable tools like "channel locks".

My understanding is that torque settings are important to bolts loaded in tension. When multiple bolts are needed to share the load, having equal tensing is a good thing. Torque values are based on 1) strength of the bolt materials. 2) how the threads are formed and 3) whether the treads are greased or dry when installing. With rougher ungreased threads, it takes more force to achieve the same tension as smooth greased threads. With rough dry threads, having equal torque does not guaranty equal tension because one may have more friction than another.

The bolts through the shank are loaded in sheer and it is only necessary to have them tight enough that they do not back off by themselves and perhaps to pull the bracket snug against the shank to minimize wobble. I pulled out the installation instructions on my EZ-lift and a torque setting is not even mentioned.
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Old 06-03-2012, 10:22 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamFoxy View Post
snip....... I pulled out the installation instructions on my EZ-lift and a torque setting is not even mentioned.
John,

I'm a little surprised that your WDH instructions lack a torque setting on the 3/4 ball mount bolts/nuts, first time I heard that.

Don't know what year/model EZ-Lift WDH you have, but the following EZ-Lift install instructions state a 260ft/lb torque setting (Ball Mount, Item #4):

Elite Model: http://manuals.adventurerv.net/Eaz-L...structions.pdf

Ultra Model: http://manuals.adventurerv.net/Eaz-L...structions.pdf

Bob
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Old 06-03-2012, 11:49 AM   #9
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From a Machinist's POV, I certainly hope the hardware can handle 320ft/lbs of torque. A lot of gear you buy now tends to come with consumer-grade (grade 5) hardware. I recommend upgrading to Grade 8 hardware for that extra insurance.

As far as having a tool for the job- a torque wrench that exceeds 250 ft/lbs (according to my web search) would cost a minimum of $350 USED...

but if you're looking for a tool that you might use once seasonally (if that often), check your well-equipped hardware stores for a boxed end wrench of the appropriate size and a pipe to fit over the opposite end (breaker bar) half the length of the wrench itself to put that final 1/4 turn on the nut. But if the nut refuses to move any further- it is best to stop there in order to avoid catastrophic failure.
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Old 06-03-2012, 12:06 PM   #10
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Use a 3/4" drive torque wrench. I think I saw one at Harbor Freight for $79. Also as a general rule you can de-rate torque values 20% for lubricated threads vs. dry.
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