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Old 03-28-2015, 09:02 AM   #11
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I do have the E4 and its the spreading the bars to the sides to put them up onto the hitch and pulling them away to get them back off. Even free standing not connected to the trailer just in the receiver to spread them we have to kick them or smack them with a mallet. They are VERY hard to move. Even in the video above moving side to side with the E4 looks effortless without weight on the hitch. Mine even without weight on the hitch is very hard to move making unhitching a PIA the one time we did it so far. Ok so I need to lubricate where the bars go into the receiver. Type of lubricant? Should I lubricate the bolts to see if that helps with the sprading the bars apart?
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Old 03-28-2015, 09:04 AM   #12
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Watch this video for maintenance, but at the 9:40 minute mark, they show you exactly how to clean and lubricate - and you'll notice the bars move easily by hand. The video also shows you what bolts to check. Equal-i-zer Videos

The internet is a wonderful thing!
I had watched that one. Watching it again though I think I'm clearer on where to lubricate. It looks like the place the lubricated will hopefully help the movement of the bars side to side since mine don't move anything like that right now.
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Old 03-28-2015, 09:08 AM   #13
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They are really tight when new and will loosen up with time. Mine move so easily now I thought the bolts must be under torqued. I bought a full set of sockets and torque wrenches from harbor freight. I checked the sway bar bolts and they were still torqued properly. I still lube the friction surfaces as mentioned by others. You can also lube the L brackets but I would only do that if there is a lot of noise when turning sharply at slow speeds.

I would recommend anyone who has an equalizer hitch to get a set of torque wrenches and a breaker bar so you can make adjustments to your setup. I was really gun shy to add or remove washers to the setup but now after I did it the first time it's pretty easy.

Give it some time to break in and keep the friction surfaces lubed. The bars themselves don't need to be lubed and if you keep the grease off the bars it will help to keep your hands clean when hitching and unhitching
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Old 03-28-2015, 09:15 AM   #14
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They are really tight when new and will loosen up with time. Mine move so easily now I thought the bolts must be under torqued. I bought a full set of sockets and torque wrenches from harbor freight. I checked the sway bar bolts and they were still torqued properly. I still lube the friction surfaces as mentioned by others. You can also lube the L brackets but I would only do that if there is a lot of noise when turning sharply at slow speeds.

I would recommend anyone who has an equalizer hitch to get a set of torque wrenches and a breaker bar so you can make adjustments to your setup. I was really gun shy to add or remove washers to the setup but now after I did it the first time it's pretty easy.

Give it some time to break in and keep the friction surfaces lubed. The bars themselves don't need to be lubed and if you keep the grease off the bars it will help to keep your hands clean when hitching and unhitching
Should the dealer have given me washers or is that something I just hit the hardware store to get? Like I said the guy who did our training wasn't very knowledgable. So all the stuff I thought I'd learn then I didn't. Our training went past close time and I think they wanted to rush us out. It wasn't the greatest experience I'm afraid.
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Old 03-28-2015, 09:15 AM   #15
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I have the Equalizer 4 way sway control setup and my delaer said (showed me how) to use the tongue jack to raise the trailer as well as the back of the truck a few inches to take the load off the bars. Then I can give them a yank by hand to get them off before lowering back down to unhitch.
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Old 03-28-2015, 09:25 AM   #16
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A set of spacer washers comes with each kit. I had mine delivered to the house (much cheaper than buying through the RV dealer) and installed mine myself. I'm sure you can find washers at a hardware store, but they have to be hardened so they don't squash over time. Your dealer should have given you everything you paid for - I'd ask them for spares, in case you need to make adjustments. And like me, you may get another trailer some day that requires you to change the head angle, in which case you may need to add washers.
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Old 03-28-2015, 09:38 AM   #17
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I've heard the dealers throw the extra washers on the floor. My guess is they keep them. I asked my dealer for some extras after they really messed up some service items and wasted a half day of my time. They gave me 3 free of charge. Just ask your dealer for some next time they are there.
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Old 04-05-2015, 08:19 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t2daniel View Post
They are really tight when new and will loosen up with time. Mine move so easily now I thought the bolts must be under torqued. I bought a full set of sockets and torque wrenches from harbor freight. I checked the sway bar bolts and they were still torqued properly. I still lube the friction surfaces as mentioned by others. You can also lube the L brackets but I would only do that if there is a lot of noise when turning sharply at slow speeds.

I would recommend anyone who has an equalizer hitch to get a set of torque wrenches and a breaker bar so you can make adjustments to your setup. I was really gun shy to add or remove washers to the setup but now after I did it the first time it's pretty easy.

Give it some time to break in and keep the friction surfaces lubed. The bars themselves don't need to be lubed and if you keep the grease off the bars it will help to keep your hands clean when hitching and unhitching
x2
And I would add, IMHO, By raising the TT tongue with the tongue jack as far as you can, you will generally have no problem sliding the bars onto the L-brackets.
If you are worried about the L-bracket and bar junction making noise, instead of grease, give some consideration to this accessory from Equalizer;
http://www.equalizerhitch.com/store/...1802c5c833b612
Also, pay attention to the sub-note in this web page about reduced sway control.
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Old 04-05-2015, 09:12 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scoutr2 View Post
Watch this video for maintenance, but at the 9:40 minute mark, they show you exactly how to clean and lubricate - and you'll notice the bars move easily by hand. The video also shows you what bolts to check. Equal-i-zer Videos

The internet is a wonderful thing!
Mine was really tight a first, now they are really loose. You can buy equalizer brand lubricant. I use 600 wt rear axle lube, but I an sure a little bearing grease will work too. I found as a bonus, between luring the pivot joint and the ball, my hitch noise has really decreased.
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Old 04-05-2015, 11:13 AM   #20
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Yes, I agree, the hitch head pivot point is where the majority of the noise comes from.
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