equalizer hitch barely move sway bars?

[MommieMara]

So when the dealer showed us how to hitch up our E4 and was pushing the sway bars in they were VERY hard to move. As in had to use the pry bar and kick them hard. Dealer said new ones are always stiff and it would loosen up. Unhitching was a PIA because the things wouldn't move. Had to get a rubber mallet and hit them. Now watching the set up video's I see those bars get spread apart with what looks like major ease. So why is mine not wanting to budge? Did the dealer over tighten something? Do I need to lubricate something? I have watched 5 youtube video's and haven't seen an answer to this but each video the bars spread inward and outward very easily so I know something isn't right. Before we hitch back up tomorrow to take it to storage I'd like to fix whatever the problem is so we don't struggle to unhitch again. If I need lubricant any recommendations on the kind? thanks

[Nate]

I don't think you want to lubricate them as the anti-sway feature uses the friction bars to keep it from swaying. If you lubricate the slides then you'll probably (just a guess) lose some of the anti-sway function. Mine are hard to take on and off too and I think they may be adjusted a little too aggressively because it took so much weight off the rear end that sometimes my rear tires will spin a little on take-offs. I have the husky equilizers.

[MommieMara]

I'm just wondering why in the video's the guys spread the bars to the side like its nothing but mine you have to smack with a mallet to move. It seems like I must have something to tight. This is even in the official instruction video they move easily.

[Scoutr2]

The bolts on your bar sockets may be over-torqued. And you should absolutely lubricate the sockets! I know it sounds counter-intuitive, but here is the exact wording from page 23 of the Owners's Manual, "The friction surfaces of the head and sockets should be kept clean and well lubricated with a good quality lubricant. They should be lubricated before each trip. Check for damage or abnormal wear at the beginning of each towing day and replace if necessary. Use a rag to clean dirt and road grit from all friction surfaces regularly.
All nuts and bolts should be checked before each towing day and retightened
or replaced if necessary.

If you don't have the Owner's Manual, you can download it here: http://www.equalizerhitch.com/pdf/eq...anual_0111.pdf

Hope this answers your question and solves your problem!

[MommieMara]

Ok so making sure I understand, lubricate where the sway bar inserts into the receiver? What is the friction surface that needs to be lubricated? Looking at the diagrams I'm not seeing what is referred to as the friction surface. Could that play into why the bars are so tight or does it sound like the dealer over tightened something? Should I also lubricate those bolts? Any suggestions on what lubricant to buy? Thanks

[charles_cincy]

Originally Posted by MommieMara

I'm just wondering why in the video's the guys spread the bars to the side like its nothing but mine you have to smack with a mallet to move. It seems like I must have something to tight. This is even in the official instruction video they move easily.

Are you sure you're looking at Equal-i-zer w/4-pt sway control videos and not ones of the Fastway E2?

Here's one that shows both, there is supposed to be significant resistance on the Equal-i-zer...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i-P5y5dYgN4

[Scoutr2]

The two sockets that the sway bars are pinned into have a friction surface top and bottom - where the metal slides across the metal of the head. The force of the bars creates most of the friction, but they will wear prematurely if not kept lubricated and clean. I always wipe down (dry cloth) and apply a thing line of grease to the tops and bottoms of both sockets before each trip. The bars will move easily when hitching up, but when the torsion from the load is placed on them, there's enough friction to control sway.

the Equalizer hitch is well designed!

[Nate]

Mine are a different type I think, so disregard.

[Scoutr2]

Originally Posted by charles_cincy

Are you sure you're looking at Equal-i-zer w/4-pt sway control videos and not ones of the Fastway E2?

Here's one that shows both, there is supposed to be significant resistance on the Equal-i-zer...

I'm sure. I've owned my Equalizer hitch for 8 years and it has performed wonderfully. I towed an Outback 29BHS for 8 years with it. Works well on my Jayco, as well.

As I said . . . download the Owner's Manual and read for yourself.

[Scoutr2]

Watch this video for maintenance, but at the 9:40 minute mark, they show you exactly how to clean and lubricate - and you'll notice the bars move easily by hand. The video also shows you what bolts to check. Equal-i-zer Videos

The internet is a wonderful thing!

[MommieMara]

I do have the E4 and its the spreading the bars to the sides to put them up onto the hitch and pulling them away to get them back off. Even free standing not connected to the trailer just in the receiver to spread them we have to kick them or smack them with a mallet. They are VERY hard to move. Even in the video above moving side to side with the E4 looks effortless without weight on the hitch. Mine even without weight on the hitch is very hard to move making unhitching a PIA the one time we did it so far. Ok so I need to lubricate where the bars go into the receiver. Type of lubricant? Should I lubricate the bolts to see if that helps with the sprading the bars apart?

[MommieMara]

Originally Posted by Scoutr2

Watch this video for maintenance, but at the 9:40 minute mark, they show you exactly how to clean and lubricate - and you'll notice the bars move easily by hand. The video also shows you what bolts to check. Equal-i-zer Videos

The internet is a wonderful thing!

I had watched that one. Watching it again though I think I'm clearer on where to lubricate. It looks like the place the lubricated will hopefully help the movement of the bars side to side since mine don't move anything like that right now.

[t2daniel]

They are really tight when new and will loosen up with time. Mine move so easily now I thought the bolts must be under torqued. I bought a full set of sockets and torque wrenches from harbor freight. I checked the sway bar bolts and they were still torqued properly. I still lube the friction surfaces as mentioned by others. You can also lube the L brackets but I would only do that if there is a lot of noise when turning sharply at slow speeds.

I would recommend anyone who has an equalizer hitch to get a set of torque wrenches and a breaker bar so you can make adjustments to your setup. I was really gun shy to add or remove washers to the setup but now after I did it the first time it's pretty easy.

Give it some time to break in and keep the friction surfaces lubed. The bars themselves don't need to be lubed and if you keep the grease off the bars it will help to keep your hands clean when hitching and unhitching

[MommieMara]

Originally Posted by t2daniel

They are really tight when new and will loosen up with time. Mine move so easily now I thought the bolts must be under torqued. I bought a full set of sockets and torque wrenches from harbor freight. I checked the sway bar bolts and they were still torqued properly. I still lube the friction surfaces as mentioned by others. You can also lube the L brackets but I would only do that if there is a lot of noise when turning sharply at slow speeds.

I would recommend anyone who has an equalizer hitch to get a set of torque wrenches and a breaker bar so you can make adjustments to your setup. I was really gun shy to add or remove washers to the setup but now after I did it the first time it's pretty easy.

Give it some time to break in and keep the friction surfaces lubed. The bars themselves don't need to be lubed and if you keep the grease off the bars it will help to keep your hands clean when hitching and unhitching

Should the dealer have given me washers or is that something I just hit the hardware store to get? Like I said the guy who did our training wasn't very knowledgable. So all the stuff I thought I'd learn then I didn't. Our training went past close time and I think they wanted to rush us out. It wasn't the greatest experience I'm afraid.

[videoguy]

I have the Equalizer 4 way sway control setup and my delaer said (showed me how) to use the tongue jack to raise the trailer as well as the back of the truck a few inches to take the load off the bars. Then I can give them a yank by hand to get them off before lowering back down to unhitch.

[Scoutr2]

A set of spacer washers comes with each kit. I had mine delivered to the house (much cheaper than buying through the RV dealer) and installed mine myself. I'm sure you can find washers at a hardware store, but they have to be hardened so they don't squash over time. Your dealer should have given you everything you paid for - I'd ask them for spares, in case you need to make adjustments. And like me, you may get another trailer some day that requires you to change the head angle, in which case you may need to add washers.

[t2daniel]

I've heard the dealers throw the extra washers on the floor. My guess is they keep them. I asked my dealer for some extras after they really messed up some service items and wasted a half day of my time. They gave me 3 free of charge. Just ask your dealer for some next time they are there.

[David472]

Originally Posted by t2daniel

They are really tight when new and will loosen up with time. Mine move so easily now I thought the bolts must be under torqued. I bought a full set of sockets and torque wrenches from harbor freight. I checked the sway bar bolts and they were still torqued properly. I still lube the friction surfaces as mentioned by others. You can also lube the L brackets but I would only do that if there is a lot of noise when turning sharply at slow speeds.

I would recommend anyone who has an equalizer hitch to get a set of torque wrenches and a breaker bar so you can make adjustments to your setup. I was really gun shy to add or remove washers to the setup but now after I did it the first time it's pretty easy.

Give it some time to break in and keep the friction surfaces lubed. The bars themselves don't need to be lubed and if you keep the grease off the bars it will help to keep your hands clean when hitching and unhitching

x2
And I would add, IMHO, By raising the TT tongue with the tongue jack as far as you can, you will generally have no problem sliding the bars onto the L-brackets.
If you are worried about the L-bracket and bar junction making noise, instead of grease, give some consideration to this accessory from Equalizer;
http://www.equalizerhitch.com/store/...1802c5c833b612
Also, pay attention to the sub-note in this web page about reduced sway control.

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by Scoutr2

Watch this video for maintenance, but at the 9:40 minute mark, they show you exactly how to clean and lubricate - and you'll notice the bars move easily by hand. The video also shows you what bolts to check. Equal-i-zer Videos

The internet is a wonderful thing!

Mine was really tight a first, now they are really loose. You can buy equalizer brand lubricant. I use 600 wt rear axle lube, but I an sure a little bearing grease will work too. I found as a bonus, between luring the pivot joint and the ball, my hitch noise has really decreased.

[David472]

Yes, I agree, the hitch head pivot point is where the majority of the noise comes from.