Equalizer sway control hitch. How's everyone experience?

[ultrarider]

I just put a 3 ft pipe extension on my 3/4” drive breaker bar and gave it all I had. The lock washer on the ball shank crimped into the nut & hitch completely, and will never back out.

[joe w]

Originally Posted by mdcamping

Thanks everyone for replying

Leaning on buying the Equalizer 4 point sway new on Amazon

I'm in no shape to torque the ball shank nut to 430 ft LBS as described in the directions. I do business with a local garage, they mentioned they can cheater bar it for me but I'll never know if it is correctly torqued?

any other suggestions?

Mike

You might stop by a trucking company and ask them to torque them down for you. My Husky Centerline hitch calls for 150 lb ft for the trunnion pivot bolts. I use a 1/2 inch torque wrench and always retorque every other fuel stop. Even with lock washers they do lose some of the torque value especially if doing a lot of turns.

[goducks]

Originally Posted by ultrarider

I just put a 3 ft pipe extension on my 3/4” drive breaker bar and gave it all I had. The lock washer on the ball shank crimped into the nut & hitch completely, and will never back out.

x2

[kayakterp]

Originally Posted by DocBrown

I'm using a Fastway E2, which is the same as the Equalizer E4, but it's 2 points of sway control instead of 4. I have a relatively small trailer. It works fantastic. I had a traditional trunnion bar and chain WDH with sway control bar before. Night and day difference. And it's very quiet compared to the old chain setup. It's also way easier to connect and disconnect.

I would not hesitate to buy a used one. Check the L brackets for excessive wear. You can buy replacement L brackets. For the E4 you can also get sleeves for the L brackets to reduce noise if yours does make noise.

I have the same system with my setup and have not had any problems. After I greased where the manual says I have not had any noise. As noted it is very similar to Equalizer system

[formerwsp520]

Originally Posted by mdcamping

Thanks everyone for replying

Leaning on buying the Equalizer 4 point sway new on Amazon

I'm in no shape to torque the ball shank nut to 430 ft LBS as described in the directions. I do business with a local garage, they mentioned they can cheater bar it for me but I'll never know if it is correctly torqued?

any other suggestions?

Mike

My method isn't scientific, but I bought a 40 inch breaker bar and a short two foot pipe to put on the end, measured and marked it so my hands were at 4 feet, rotated the hitch in the receiver so the nut for the ball was horizontal, stood on a scale holding the bar and lifted until I had added 110 pounds to the scale. Not perfect, but better than a WAG. It helps that I'm light enough to do that on the scale. I don't use the scale every time now, but have a good idea of what lifting 110 pounds feels like.



Before this idea I did have the ball nut loosen on a trip and using tools I could borrow at the campground made me rethink this not so little thing.

[osbornk]

Got mine in 2004 and gave it to my daughter when I gave them my trailer. Has always worked great.

[NERVA]

Originally Posted by JayLo

I am using E4/GenY MashUp, love it!

Car to tell us more about that gen y, does it actually cushion the ride with a weight distribution head?

[mdcamping]

update: I did buy the Equalizer 4 point sway new on Amazon.

So after reading the directions on the https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...v-tt-3871.html on this thread here my one question would be on 1st Weigh, when disconnecting truck from trailer, does the ball hitch stay on the truck or gets disconnected and stays with trailer?

Thanks
Mike

[mdcamping]

oops double post

[Route 66 Traveler]

Leave the hitch connected to the trailer. I use this to remove the hitch from the truck:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1