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Old 04-20-2018, 08:54 PM   #1
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F150 brake controller settings

I know everybody will have a different gain settings for their truck brake controller and trailer combination, however I am curious what the gain settings people are using when towing their RV. If there is a good way to determine if the setting I am using is not to low for my combination.

My setting is set to 7.5 for my 2017 f150 and a 28bhbe for my TT with about 6500 dry weight.

Obviously I want the trailer to do more of the braking to prevent burning through my truck tires
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Old 04-20-2018, 09:12 PM   #2
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My White Hawk takes a setting of 6.5.

I hauled home a 1989 Terry 18 ft trailer today and the setting for it was 3.0.

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Old 04-20-2018, 09:59 PM   #3
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My dealer recommended 5. Still learning myself.
Forgot to add my TT is on the light side.
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Old 04-21-2018, 04:42 AM   #4
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Mine is set on 5.0 and seems to work well right now, originally had it set at 4.5. I've read where you need (?) to adjust the gain to how your trailer is loaded for different trips, whether on the heavy side or light side (cargo), if you carry water in the FW tank, etc., I don't carry but 5-10 gal of FW just because I don't want to haul the extra weight. We stop at rest stops when needed.
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Old 04-21-2018, 06:41 AM   #5
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7.5 seems to work well for my set up. Might have to dial it back a bit once I get my PowerStop brake kit installed.
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Old 04-21-2018, 09:36 AM   #6
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I'm at a 7.0 with our JayFlight 23RB, we're typically around 5800 # or so on the trailer, at 7.0 I get a very even feel to braking where it doesn't feel like the trailer is pulling or pushing the truck in braking situations.
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Old 04-21-2018, 09:48 AM   #7
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If you have a level stretch of road or parking lot where you can go about 25MPH, try stopping with only the trailer brakes by manually moving the controller lever all the way to the maximum. Adjust to a point just short to where the tires do no slide. My point is at about 5. On an actual real time stop you may want to tweak it up or down to where you can feel the brakes helping.
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Old 04-29-2018, 08:23 AM   #8
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If you are in stop and go construction traffic, or a parking lot, you can mess around with the settings and see what feels best. Try dialing it up "too high" and you'll quickly feel what it's like when the trailer is trying to stop the truck.

These factory integrated trailer brake controllers from Ford and GM are so smooth that a lot of people think they are working incorrectly. Myself I was convinced of that for a few hours the first time I tried one, but now I'm a huge fan of them.

If unsure, I have it set on the high side of the range, and then drop it down in 0.5 increments if it's bothering me.
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Old 05-04-2018, 04:52 PM   #9
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I'm not sure what the deal is with my setup. I have a '17 F150 with the integrated brake controller and I pull a Jay Flight 224BHW, dry weight is only around 4500 lbs.

I tried the procedure that some people recommend, which is also in the F150 manual, where you tow the trailer 20 - 25 mph and squeeze the manual trailer brake lever to find the point where the brakes lock up, then adjust it down a couple of steps. Well I adjusted mine all the way up to a gain setting of 10 and couldn't get the brakes to lock up, which I thought was odd because my trailer isn't super heavy.

So I left the gain set to 10 and it doesn't feel like the trailer is pulling on the truck when braking normally, nor does it feel like it's pushing the truck. It feels pretty close to what it's like without the trailer connected. I actually wish I could feel the trailer pulling us to a stop a little bit. It just seems odd to have it dialed up all the way to 10. I'm a newbie at this so it wasn't what I was expecting when I went out to get my brake controller adjusted.
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Old 05-04-2018, 08:57 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by CowboyCoffee View Post
I'm not sure what the deal is with my setup. I have a '17 F150 with the integrated brake controller and I pull a Jay Flight 224BHW, dry weight is only around 4500 lbs.

I tried the procedure that some people recommend, which is also in the F150 manual, where you tow the trailer 20 - 25 mph and squeeze the manual trailer brake lever to find the point where the brakes lock up, then adjust it down a couple of steps. Well I adjusted mine all the way up to a gain setting of 10 and couldn't get the brakes to lock up, which I thought was odd because my trailer isn't super heavy.

So I left the gain set to 10 and it doesn't feel like the trailer is pulling on the truck when braking normally, nor does it feel like it's pushing the truck. It feels pretty close to what it's like without the trailer connected. I actually wish I could feel the trailer pulling us to a stop a little bit. It just seems odd to have it dialed up all the way to 10. I'm a newbie at this so it wasn't what I was expecting when I went out to get my brake controller adjusted.
Been a while since I've played with the settings in mine but if I remember correctly there was a secondary setting to the braking similar to the boost modes on a prodigy controller, may want to look at that.
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Old 05-05-2018, 04:54 AM   #11
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In your case, if you're good with a wrench, you may want to take an up close and personal look at your trailer brakes. If you're not good with a wrench, you may need an expert do the same.

Sounds like your trailer brakes aren't working at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CowboyCoffee View Post
I'm not sure what the deal is with my setup. I have a '17 F150 with the integrated brake controller and I pull a Jay Flight 224BHW, dry weight is only around 4500 lbs.

I tried the procedure that some people recommend, which is also in the F150 manual, where you tow the trailer 20 - 25 mph and squeeze the manual trailer brake lever to find the point where the brakes lock up, then adjust it down a couple of steps. Well I adjusted mine all the way up to a gain setting of 10 and couldn't get the brakes to lock up, which I thought was odd because my trailer isn't super heavy.

So I left the gain set to 10 and it doesn't feel like the trailer is pulling on the truck when braking normally, nor does it feel like it's pushing the truck. It feels pretty close to what it's like without the trailer connected. I actually wish I could feel the trailer pulling us to a stop a little bit. It just seems odd to have it dialed up all the way to 10. I'm a newbie at this so it wasn't what I was expecting when I went out to get my brake controller adjusted.
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Old 05-07-2018, 10:16 AM   #12
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Just to be clear, can you get the brakes to lock up on gravel or dirt roads using the manual slider? If not, I would suspect weak trailer brakes first of all, or some kind of poor connection at the 7-pin connector.
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Old 05-07-2018, 10:54 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Atlee View Post
In your case, if you're good with a wrench, you may want to take an up close and personal look at your trailer brakes. If you're not good with a wrench, you may need an expert do the same.

Sounds like your trailer brakes aren't working at all.
Although it's integrated, make sure the relay is there. If the relay is there, move to the trailers brake system. Chances are, if the relay is in place and it's getting power, the controller's probably good.
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Old 05-07-2018, 11:02 AM   #14
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Just using the slider lever or knob will only operate your trailer brakes... Try that without pushing on the truck brake pedal..

Could be for some reason your brakes are NOT working...

Another way to tell is get a clamp around DC CURRENT meter (got mine from SEARS). Clamp this around the BLUE WIRE feeding one wheel and have someone apply the brakes. IF 12VDC is being applied (full setting number 10) you should be seeing 3AMPS DC Current being drawn at each brake magnet...

Some brake magnets make a low tone sound... My 5th wheel make a tone and my OFF-ROAD trailer does not. You can also use a BOY SCOUT COMPASS and hold it near the wheel brake and it should deflect the needle when brakes are applied..

Or you can jack up a trailer wheel and have someone push on the brake pedal and your trailer wheel should lock up on you when you try to turn it...

Your trailer brakes also have a manual adjustment using the standard brake tool. Operate the brake adj wheel from the back side of the wheel using the tool while spinning the wheel until the wheel starts to slow down from touching the brake pad - then back off a tad.

My Truck console has an error MSG saying the brakes are not connected (measures a small DC CURRENT I guess when your Brake Controller is connected to your trailer brakes)

I use the slider lever/knob all the time and just let the trailer brakes slow me down... That also tells me they are working...

I definitely do this when I first hook up and start my trip. I have a stop sign about 100 feet away from my driveway so I use the manual level to stop us just using the trailer brakes. This also heats them up from sitting (gets the moisture out of the pads etc)

I have a feeling you are not sending BRAKE VOLTAGE to your electric brakes from what you are saying...

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Old 05-07-2018, 10:05 PM   #15
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Thank you for giving me some things to think about. My trailer brakes definitely work. When I begin towing I like to test them by squeezing the manual slider to see how well they stop the whole rig without touching the truck brakes. They seem to do a pretty good job then again I don’t have any experience to compare with. It’s just as I said before, I can’t get them to lock up even at 10 gain, on wet pavement at that. Haven’t tried gravel or dirt.

Another thing I’ve experienced is that the 7 pin connector is extremely loose. The dash display has told me that there is a fault with some of the trailer lights, or that the trailer is disconnected, on several occasions. I wonder if a loose connection could cause the brakes to be under powered?
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Old 05-08-2018, 05:48 PM   #16
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What year is your 28BHBE? If it is like mine and has the Lippert axles, they won't lock up even on gravel. I could not get them to lock using a Tekonsha Prodigy P2 or the factory Ram controller set to heavy electric and gain of 10.

You really don't need then to lock up to tell you it's working. If you manually apply them and they slow you down decently, they are probably about as good as they will be. Also a loose trailer plug connector can cause a low voltage issue.
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Old 05-09-2018, 10:52 AM   #17
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The way these integrated brake controllers work, without using the manual slide, you shouldn't ever be able to lock them up, even at 10 gain.

Lots of people (myself included) got used to the jerky action of the aftermarket controllers and the fact that you can feel the trailer brakes kick in. The factory ones are so smooth, it seems like they aren't working right, but they are incredibly reliable unless you have a connection problem.
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Old 05-10-2018, 04:59 PM   #18
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What year is your 28BHBE? If it is like mine and has the Lippert axles, they won't lock up even on gravel. I could not get them to lock using a Tekonsha Prodigy P2 or the factory Ram controller set to heavy electric and gain of 10.

You really don't need then to lock up to tell you it's working. If you manually apply them and they slow you down decently, they are probably about as good as they will be. Also a loose trailer plug connector can cause a low voltage issue.
I have a 224BHW, it's a 2018. It has Lippert axles but I'm not sure which ones specifically.
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Old 06-01-2018, 10:40 PM   #19
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I had a similar problem with my new 2018 Jay Flight SLX 212qbw using my 2016 Ford F-150. It also has lippert axles. No matter what gain (4-10) I dialed in, the braking was the same and no locking, same with whether I set it to Low, Medium, High.

After spending some time reading the Lippert electric brakes owners manual it said that since these are forward self adjusting electric brakes.....it make take 20-50 stops before they seat themselves properly. I had read that coming from the manufacturer the magnets may need even more stops than that before they properly adjust themselves.

I went out today and drove around getting to about 40MPH then used the manual brake controller without truck brakes to slow down to about 25.

Did that about 20-30 times and now when I do 20-25MPH and use just the manual brake levers on the integrated brake controller I lock the trailer tires at 6.5 gain so I now have it set at 6.0 gain.

Not saying this will change things for you but just thought I would share. I recommend downloading the Lippert electric brakes owners/instruction manual it has good information and a decent troubleshooting section.
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Old 06-02-2018, 07:04 AM   #20
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That's a good point, brand new brakes often take some adjusting before they bite properly. When I replaced the brakes on my previous trailer, I ended up adjusting them several times over the first few trips. They were the manual adjustment kind, so maybe the auto-adjust would have been better.

You haven't lived until you've adjusted brakes in a mcdonalds parking lot while your family eats.

Current trailer brakes seem to work fine, maybe I will get to eat this year.
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