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Old 04-07-2015, 08:55 PM   #51
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Location: Columbia SC
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The top of the ball on my hitch is a tad under 23" unloaded. My trailer nose is slightly down when hitched up.

You will need to go to a CAT scale to fine tune your set up. Especially to get your front axle weight back to it's unloaded weight.

See the weighing instructions sticky at the top of the towing section.

2012 Toyota Tundra 5.7 Litre DoubleCab
6 speed, 4.30 Limited Slip, Tow Package
2013 Jayco White Hawk 27DSRL
2010 Jayco JayFlight 26BH sold
Yamaha EF2000is Generators (2)
1996 Honda CB750 Nighthawk
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Old 04-14-2016, 03:52 PM   #52
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Beacon
Posts: 339
Andersen WD Hitch and Bottom Mounted Couplers

I know this is an older thread but I just noticed the photo of Murff's Andersen hitch setup on his White Hawk. It's clear that he's installed it correctly and is getting good results (from everything I've read)!

Nevertheless, as a soon-to-be Andersen user, I have some concerns when I look at the setup. I'm about to pick up a new White Hawk using the same bottom mounted coupler (which according to Jayco, is an Atwood 82680). Bottom mounted couplers pulls the Andersen's weight distribution chains downward towards the lower triangle plate. This in turn creates a potential binding point at the other end of the chain, where it meets the front of the outside frame bracket tube. If the angle of the chain causes binding at the front of that tube, then the connected bolt which carries the urethane spring on the back side cannot move freely back and forth. This would impede the spring's ability to dampen bounce. Additionally, there's the potential for both noise and wear as the chain is pulled against the front edge of the bracket tube.

I called Andersen to ask about this and spoke with Jason (the tech who you see doing the Andersen install in their product video). The guy is great to talk to, and he confirmed my concerns. While he said it wasn't dangerous, he did agree that it can impact bounce dampening performance if the chain rubs or binds on the front of the bracket tube. He recommended lubricating the contact point between the tube edge and chain to reduce noise and wear.

For a longer term solution that ensures full bounce dampening, he suggested rotating the brackets forward on the frame during installation to increase the downward angle on the bracket chain tube, thus improving the line of the chain from from the triangle plate to the bolt carrying the urethane spring. He said that while this would definitely require welding the brackets to the frame, it would also ensure that the hitch provides its maximum benefit in terms of quiet and bounce dampening.

Lastly, he emphasized the importance of fully removing all slack on the chains when identifying the bracket installation locations. He also suggested that during installation, it's important to set the bolt in the urethane spring so that the bottom is FLUSH with the tensioning nut during install, with no threads showing. After install, this helps ensure that weight distribution can be created with as few turns on the nut as possible.

Just thought I'd share this info for those interested in the Andersen. I'm not put off by having to slightly mod the install, but I do think it would be great if Andersen updated their installation instructions to reflect Jason's suggestions for bottom mounted couplers.

2017 White Hawk 28DSBH, Glacier package
2010 F150 XLT SCREW, 4x4, 5.4L Triton, HD Tow
Andersen No-Sway Weight Distribution Hitch
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