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Old 04-01-2015, 01:47 PM   #41
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I heard back from the salesman. He checked a trailer in their showroom and told me that it's 21.25" to the underside of the coupler. That sounds a lot better, and gives me plenty of room to work with. Like I said, I just want to make sure I have everything I need when I'm picking up the trailer so I only have to go there once. The dealership is three and a half hours each way and I don't want to get there just to find out I don't have the proper equipment and end up paying the dealer's inflated prices to get what I need.
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Old 04-01-2015, 02:12 PM   #42
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I heard back from the salesman. He checked a trailer in their showroom and told me that it's 21.25" to the underside of the coupler. That sounds a lot better, and gives me plenty of room to work with. Like I said, I just want to make sure I have everything I need when I'm picking up the trailer so I only have to go there once. The dealership is three and a half hours each way and I don't want to get there just to find out I don't have the proper equipment and end up paying the dealer's inflated prices to get what I need.
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Old 04-01-2015, 03:56 PM   #43
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MY 24fbs is 31 1/4" to top of coupler. On the top hole of my equalizer shank. Dealer set it up for free and I bought it through Makarios RV supply.
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Old 04-01-2015, 07:34 PM   #44
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I guess it was the underside of the coupler measurement I was in need of. Now I can assemble my hitch to be an inch or two higher than that, confident that I don't have to buy a new shank or something. I haven't torqued anything down yet because I still have to adjust the head tilt and I can't do that until I get the trailer.

We have to tow our old trailer to the dealer because we used it as a trade-in, and that uses a Reese 500/5000 WHD with a 2" ball. When we get there, that hitch is coming off and getting thrown into the back of the truck, and the new WDH will be used to tow the new trailer home. The old one is going up for sale; I wasn't going to give it away with the trailer! Going to be a busy day!
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Old 04-01-2015, 07:43 PM   #45
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Going to be a busy day!
But rewarding!!

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Old 04-02-2015, 05:55 AM   #46
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It seems everyone is hung up on the hitch height number before it's hooked up. Isn't easier and more accurate to hook up the trailer, put a level on the frame, measure from the frame to the ground, then raise or lower the tongue while until the frame is level, measure again. The difference is the amount you need to adjust your ball height up or down.

I'm a newbie. If this does not make sense then someone tell me why...
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Old 04-02-2015, 06:58 AM   #47
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It seems everyone is hung up on the hitch height number before it's hooked up. Isn't easier and more accurate to hook up the trailer, put a level on the frame, measure from the frame to the ground, then raise or lower the tongue while until the frame is level, measure again. The difference is the amount you need to adjust your ball height up or down.

I'm a newbie. If this does not make sense then someone tell me why...
The reason it's important to measure BEFORE hitching up is so you are able to determine how the WDH is performing. Measurements should also be taken, on level ground, of the wheel opening heights, both front and rear BEFORE hitching up - then again, AFTER hitching up with the WDH. The rear will lower a little (1-2 inches, usually), but the front should stay the same, or lower a tad, if your WDH is set up properly. The front should NEVER come up. With my setup, the rear sags about 1-1/2" and the front is the same, and the trailer rides level.

This is the accepted procedure by all manufacturers. Believe us when we say it will work if you follow the instructions for installation. Almost all manufacturers have the installation instructions on the web.
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Old 04-02-2015, 10:35 AM   #48
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Remember, you can only safely torque and re-torque the shank bolts a few times before you start stretching the bolts and threads. So a ballpark setting will get you home, but you might want to wait until you actually measure your trailer's coupler height before even torquing the bolts the first time.

just my opinion.
This is a very valuable tidbit, I did my shank bolts too many times trying to dial my hitch in. I eventually had to cut them off and replace them.
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Old 04-04-2015, 07:26 AM   #49
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The reason it's important to measure BEFORE hitching up is so you are able to determine how the WDH is performing. Measurements should also be taken, on level ground, of the wheel opening heights, both front and rear BEFORE hitching up - then again, AFTER hitching up with the WDH. The rear will lower a little (1-2 inches, usually), but the front should stay the same, or lower a tad, if your WDH is set up properly. The front should NEVER come up. With my setup, the rear sags about 1-1/2" and the front is the same, and the trailer rides level.

This is the accepted procedure by all manufacturers. Believe us when we say it will work if you follow the instructions for installation. Almost all manufacturers have the installation instructions on the web.
Thanks Scout,

I was finally able to find the installation manual on-line for the Husky round bar WDH. Stepped me through the setup. And like you said, included measurements to the wheel openings. The eye popper was the fact that the trailer dealer, Terry Town RV in west Michigan, completely screwed up the installation. One would think that when one is buying a new RV from a very large and reputable dealer that one could count on them to properly install the hitch.

Anyway, I thought about taking it to them to re-install but decided I would do it myself. They had the hitch ball sitting 4" below proper setting. Crazy. I knew something didn't look right when I picked it up but they said it was because it was sitting on a slight hill at the dealer. BS.

I'm mentioning all this to highlight the importance of new owners to really dig in and learn the proper set up procedure.

I now have my trailer level measuring at the frame on level ground within 1/16" over 30'. My TV drops in front 1/8" and in rear 1.9". What a difference.
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Old 04-06-2015, 09:54 AM   #50
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Thanks Scout,

I was finally able to find the installation manual on-line for the Husky round bar WDH. Stepped me through the setup. And like you said, included measurements to the wheel openings. The eye popper was the fact that the trailer dealer, Terry Town RV in west Michigan, completely screwed up the installation. One would think that when one is buying a new RV from a very large and reputable dealer that one could count on them to properly install the hitch.

Anyway, I thought about taking it to them to re-install but decided I would do it myself. They had the hitch ball sitting 4" below proper setting. Crazy. I knew something didn't look right when I picked it up but they said it was because it was sitting on a slight hill at the dealer. BS.

I'm mentioning all this to highlight the importance of new owners to really dig in and learn the proper set up procedure.

I now have my trailer level measuring at the frame on level ground within 1/16" over 30'. My TV drops in front 1/8" and in rear 1.9". What a difference.
Don't count on the dealer to properly install/set up the hitch. Mine was wrong. The driver's side spring hanger bracket was upsidedown compared to the passenger side. I called the tech out on it at PDI and he gave me some BS response because he was too lazy to break out the wrenches and fix it. I knew I was going to re-install it anyway because it was set up under unloaded conditions, so I let it lie.

Also keep that in mind; the dealer will set it up under unloaded conditions, so you will have to adjust once you get the truck and trailer loaded the way you're going to use it.
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Old 04-07-2015, 07:55 PM   #51
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The top of the ball on my hitch is a tad under 23" unloaded. My trailer nose is slightly down when hitched up.

You will need to go to a CAT scale to fine tune your set up. Especially to get your front axle weight back to it's unloaded weight.

See the weighing instructions sticky at the top of the towing section.
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Old 04-14-2016, 02:52 PM   #52
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Andersen WD Hitch and Bottom Mounted Couplers

I know this is an older thread but I just noticed the photo of Murff's Andersen hitch setup on his White Hawk. It's clear that he's installed it correctly and is getting good results (from everything I've read)!

Nevertheless, as a soon-to-be Andersen user, I have some concerns when I look at the setup. I'm about to pick up a new White Hawk using the same bottom mounted coupler (which according to Jayco, is an Atwood 82680). Bottom mounted couplers pulls the Andersen's weight distribution chains downward towards the lower triangle plate. This in turn creates a potential binding point at the other end of the chain, where it meets the front of the outside frame bracket tube. If the angle of the chain causes binding at the front of that tube, then the connected bolt which carries the urethane spring on the back side cannot move freely back and forth. This would impede the spring's ability to dampen bounce. Additionally, there's the potential for both noise and wear as the chain is pulled against the front edge of the bracket tube.

I called Andersen to ask about this and spoke with Jason (the tech who you see doing the Andersen install in their product video). The guy is great to talk to, and he confirmed my concerns. While he said it wasn't dangerous, he did agree that it can impact bounce dampening performance if the chain rubs or binds on the front of the bracket tube. He recommended lubricating the contact point between the tube edge and chain to reduce noise and wear.

For a longer term solution that ensures full bounce dampening, he suggested rotating the brackets forward on the frame during installation to increase the downward angle on the bracket chain tube, thus improving the line of the chain from from the triangle plate to the bolt carrying the urethane spring. He said that while this would definitely require welding the brackets to the frame, it would also ensure that the hitch provides its maximum benefit in terms of quiet and bounce dampening.

Lastly, he emphasized the importance of fully removing all slack on the chains when identifying the bracket installation locations. He also suggested that during installation, it's important to set the bolt in the urethane spring so that the bottom is FLUSH with the tensioning nut during install, with no threads showing. After install, this helps ensure that weight distribution can be created with as few turns on the nut as possible.

Just thought I'd share this info for those interested in the Andersen. I'm not put off by having to slightly mod the install, but I do think it would be great if Andersen updated their installation instructions to reflect Jason's suggestions for bottom mounted couplers.
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Old 05-29-2021, 04:15 PM   #53
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Can someone just answer what the hitch height to the top of the coupler on a 20MRB is?
Thanks
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Old 05-29-2021, 05:21 PM   #54
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Can someone just answer what the hitch height to the top of the coupler on a 20MRB is?
Thanks
This thread says close to 26 1/4”: https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...elp-24978.html

HTH
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Old 05-29-2021, 06:30 PM   #55
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Thank you kindly
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