How to find how much my truck can actually tow

[SteveTekRV]

Originally Posted by djglover7

"...160 LEDs on light bars and pods around the entire truck..."


Point them toward the ground. It will counteract gravity and you will lose 400-500lbs overall.

LMAO! I can light up a mountain! haha

[SteveTekRV]

Originally Posted by curver900

I have never heard of anyone ever getting a ticket for being over weight.. could you ? sure, will you not likely... unless you are commercial...

I don't think it's so much getting a ticket, but from my research it appears that there are teams of accident dudes out there that will weight your camper if you were in an accident. Then if you're overweight, you face serious liability issues. Especially in the case of bodily harm to anyone.

[Shokyle1]

Also worth looking into fully loaded 4 door 4wd diesel trucks have very low payloads. Less than 2000lbs typically.

[Heymon]

What I have learned about towing is that the real issue is not how much you can pull, but how well you can brake. A lot of the focus of this thread (and most other threads of this type) is on hitch capacity, axle ratings, tongue weight, etc. but it is getting all that stuff stopped that is, to me, the most important issue.

Your oversize tires significantly reduce braking ability. I agree with the post that said you should revert to stock if you are going to tow full time. It will alleviate a lot of potential problems, but it will improve your braking and your ability to bring all that weight to a stop without crashing. Going down a hill with the big tires, you have to apply more pedal pressure than a stock truck to get equivalent braking effect. Long, hard applications of brakes on a mountain road could be a problem. Whatever you decide, I wish you the best traveling the country and hope your experience is truly enjoyable!

[Mad5581]

Steve&Deb I had an 06 with the 6.0 gas i loved the truck but i think your making a good call on a diesel upgrade. The issue you run into is you will likely run out of pin weight capacity before you get the the max tow rating on your truck. For example I have a 2017 gmc 3500 srw and a 43 foot north point. My truck can pull 17500 but my max payload is only about 3200 lbs (with full tank of fuel and people in the truck) so anything my trailer loaded up is about 14500# but my pin weight is already upto 3300#. So technically I'm 100# over weight and still have 3000# of available towing capacity. Also keep in mind with a diesel you get more towing capacity but less payload capacity. (The motor is heavier). In the newer gmcs like mine you actually get a higher gvwr to offset some of the diesel weight vs the gasser. With the older truck (all of them Ford, ram ,and gm) this can be an issue especially when looking at a bumper pull rv. Make sure you know your rv numbers really well and add about 10% or so to the OEM provided dry numbers. Then look for a truck that can accommodate that. Personally I would be looking for a truck with 15% or more room to work. I love my 2017 with the L5P duramax that thing is bulletproof and pulls my 15k rv great. Also keep in min the older Denali HD's were not much of an HD they were really under rated. Like looked at one I think it was a 13 or 12 but it was so heavy it only had like 1800 lbs of payload on a 2500HD pickup. Just keep that in mind when your looking.

[TN2010Jayco35RLTS]

Originally Posted by Steve&Deb

I think I've come to the conclusion that it just isn't worth the time/effort/money to keep this truck. It was a former Warn Winch show truck (it has over $25k in aftermarket parts/upgrades) and is built for heavy off-road use...not hauling a camper. Sad to see it go, but I really need a diesel anyhow. IF it were a Duramax then I'd consider the lift-delete, but that would also be costly and as a 2004 I would rather spend my $$ buying a newer diesel.

As an aside, in reviewing GMC tow ratings, I noticed something interesting. I was looking at a 2012 Denali HD, turbo diesel 4x4 fully loaded. Nice truck. The max tow rating is 14,800 BUT in reviewing the charts that is only with the 4.10 gears AND ONLY using a 5th wheel or gooseneck hitch, i.e. using the bed. Using a tow-behind that number drops to 13,000. Wow. Quite a bit different and something I hadn't even considered in reviewing max tow capacity for any trucks.

Thoughts?

I agree.. hard to beat a 2500 or 3500 diesel.. and yes, that's correct concerning the comparison for 5th wheel and bumper pull, but most bumper pulls don't get much over 9000 lbs dry weight, and most likely never up to 13000 lbs loaded. I understand what you're talking about with all the mods you've done on your truck, I kinda sorta did something like that too once a few years ago I agree with you, and with the age creeping up on your truck you'd be best off to sell it and go with another newer, diesel 2500 or 3500 however you want. Best wishes with it and keep on camping!

[SouthCo]

Originally Posted by Steve&Deb

As an aside, in reviewing GMC tow ratings, I noticed something interesting. I was looking at a 2012 Denali HD, turbo diesel 4x4 fully loaded. Nice truck. The max tow rating is 14,800 BUT in reviewing the charts that is only with the 4.10 gears AND ONLY using a 5th wheel or gooseneck hitch, i.e. using the bed. Using a tow-behind that number drops to 13,000. Wow. Quite a bit different and something I hadn't even considered in reviewing max tow capacity for any trucks.

Thoughts?

The Duramax has only ever been available with a 3.73 rear. The 6.0 gas could get the 4.10 rear I believe... not that that matter lol.

I think u on the right path to move on to another truck.

[curver900]

if you go with a truck that is 2019 or older go with a 3500 in the GM space. In 2020 they made some sorta change to the load numbers. But prior to that the payload numbers of a 1500 and a diesel 2500 where within 500lbs give or take.... The only difference between them is an over load spring and 18" wheels vs 18 or 20 inch on the 2500.. again in 2020 they put on 20 inch wheels on the 3500's so there have been changes....

in some states like mine the annual license is $139 for a 3500 vs 10% of the value of a 70k truck or $700 annual... can't make it up...

other states are the opposite and charge more for the 3500 YMMV

[Packerbacker_TX]

Originally Posted by Steve&Deb

I know, you think this is another "tow ratings" questions, but it's more in depth.

Allow me to explain. I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado 2500HD, 6 ltr gas, 4x4. It's lifted 6" (Fabtech) with 37" tires (brand new Goodyear MTR Kevlars).

It's got 4.88 gears in the back, air-locker, onboard air pump, and 100 other customized goodies the PO installed (like 2, yes 2, 16,500lb Warn winches, one in back and one up front, 160 LEDs on light bars and pods around the entire truck, custom Move bumpers, etc...) Curb weight lists at 9800lbs. I'm betting it's closer to 12k lbs configured like it is. The wheels alone with tires weigh around 100lbs each, so that's 500lbs including the spare. I should really bring it to a scale and weigh it. It's a beast.

I got a Superchips F5 programmer and set the tire size, and rear gear ratio and now my speedo is spot on. I use the "economy" tune. I've also tried the "towing" tune. Tried both with regular and super gas. I don't see ANY difference in MPG or shifting spots while towing or not towing in either program. FWIW: It also solved the "anti-lock break" idiot light.

Given the custom gearing, tire size, reprogrammed ECM to account for speedo, and lifted-truck height factors, how the heck do I figure out the actual tow ability? I'm talking strictly pull-behind TT.

It has no problem pulling my 30' Jayco Jayflight going up a 6 degree ascent towards Prescott from Phoenix. 75mph like it's not towing anything, but yes it's revving around 3500 if I don't have to slow down for anyone else. It'll hit 4500rpm on occasion.

(As an aside for whatever reason the "overdrive" button on the shifter stock does nothing. No light, no difference when towing or not towing. It's not working. In fact I don't think it ever actually drops into "overdrive" in my limited knowledge of how that works. 4th gear = yes, "overdrive" not sure. I'm going 75mph at 2500rpm under normal flat conditions with or without the TT attached.)

Sounds like a cool ride. You should post a pic! Given the sheer size of this monster, your factory sticker may no longer apply. Typically anything towed off the back bumper has a max tongue weight of 1,000 lbs. The fact you're sitting on 37" tires means a drop hitch, which may affect the max weight. Keep in mind that even if you're able to tow more than OEM specs say, doesn't mean you should tow more. If you're ever in an accident and the highway patrol sees you're 10K over payload, you'll probably get a fine. Insurance won't pay a dime if they find out you're out of spec. If it was my rig, I'd keep the TT to around 10K to keep things safe.


Good Luck

[curver900]

Originally Posted by Packerbacker_TX

Sounds like a cool ride. You should post a pic! Given the sheer size of this monster, your factory sticker may no longer apply. Typically anything towed off the back bumper has a max tongue weight of 1,000 lbs. The fact you're sitting on 37" tires means a drop hitch, which may affect the max weight. Keep in mind that even if you're able to tow more than OEM specs say, doesn't mean you should tow more. If you're ever in an accident and the highway patrol sees you're 10K over payload, you'll probably get a fine. Insurance won't pay a dime if they find out you're out of spec. If it was my rig, I'd keep the TT to around 10K to keep things safe.


Good Luck

why would insurance not pay if you are out of spec??? they pay when you drive drunk, they pay when you drive high, they pay when you drive the wrong way on a one way... is there some fine print in an insurance policy that I haven't seen that says "we won't pay your claim if we find you are over loaded". Heck they even pay when you drive with bad brakes, bald tires, etc...

[SteveTekRV]

Originally Posted by Mad5581

Steve&Deb I had an 06 with the 6.0 gas i loved the truck but i think your making a good call on a diesel upgrade. The issue you run into is you will likely run out of pin weight capacity before you get the the max tow rating on your truck. For example I have a 2017 gmc 3500 srw and a 43 foot north point. My truck can pull 17500 but my max payload is only about 3200 lbs (with full tank of fuel and people in the truck) so anything my trailer loaded up is about 14500# but my pin weight is already upto 3300#. So technically I'm 100# over weight and still have 3000# of available towing capacity. Also keep in mind with a diesel you get more towing capacity but less payload capacity. (The motor is heavier). In the newer gmcs like mine you actually get a higher gvwr to offset some of the diesel weight vs the gasser. With the older truck (all of them Ford, ram ,and gm) this can be an issue especially when looking at a bumper pull rv. Make sure you know your rv numbers really well and add about 10% or so to the OEM provided dry numbers. Then look for a truck that can accommodate that. Personally I would be looking for a truck with 15% or more room to work. I love my 2017 with the L5P duramax that thing is bulletproof and pulls my 15k rv great. Also keep in min the older Denali HD's were not much of an HD they were really under rated. Like looked at one I think it was a 13 or 12 but it was so heavy it only had like 1800 lbs of payload on a 2500HD pickup. Just keep that in mind when your looking.

Thank you for all that intel. Yes, it's becoming daunting looking up CORRECT specs on these trucks. Goggle throws back conflicting numbers depending on the sources. Trying to find older specs on the GM/GMC websites isn't easy either. Wanna sell me your 2017? Lol

Payload isn't as big a deal for me. When I tow, pretty much everything is in the TT. Me (210) dog (65) gas (220 if 36gal of diesel) and maybe my firepit (30lbs) and a bike (20lbs) in the truck. I surely never take more than 1000lb of "stuff" in the truck while towing. No big boy toys.

[AndyO]

Just an FYI I drive a 2020 Silverado 2500 CC LTZ DM 4x4 Z71. While shopping for it I drove a nearly identical one that I was ready to buy, until I looked at the door sticker. It's payload was just a hair over 1900#, my sales guy found me another on at a dealer 2 hours away that had a payload of 3200+# , that was a huge difference! I tell people all the time to check those stickers before you commit to buying anything. A truck being a 2500 or 3500 means little if it doesn't do the job you need it to. Good luck in your hunt for a new truck.

[SteveTekRV]

Originally Posted by SouthCo

The Duramax has only ever been available with a 3.73 rear. The 6.0 gas could get the 4.10 rear I believe... not that that matter lol.

I think u on the right path to move on to another truck.

Indeed you're right on the Duramax with 3.73 gears. The 6.0 gasser could get 4.10 gears and actually hit the same 13k tow capacity as the Duramax (with half the torque, yes).

I found the chart. See page 15. Looks like all ball-hitch ratings are 13,000 for the 2500/3500 lineup standard box, 2wd/4wd.

https://fifthwheelst.com/documents/g...ring-guide.pdf

[SteveTekRV]

Originally Posted by Heymon

What I have learned about towing is that the real issue is not how much you can pull, but how well you can brake. A lot of the focus of this thread (and most other threads of this type) is on hitch capacity, axle ratings, tongue weight, etc. but it is getting all that stuff stopped that is, to me, the most important issue.

Your oversize tires significantly reduce braking ability. I agree with the post that said you should revert to stock if you are going to tow full time. It will alleviate a lot of potential problems, but it will improve your braking and your ability to bring all that weight to a stop without crashing. Going down a hill with the big tires, you have to apply more pedal pressure than a stock truck to get equivalent braking effect. Long, hard applications of brakes on a mountain road could be a problem. Whatever you decide, I wish you the best traveling the country and hope your experience is truly enjoyable!

Question on braking: What percentage of braking is the trailer braking "supposed" to do? I.e. the trailer has brakes, I have a progressive brake controller so the harder I brake the truck it's supposed to proportionally brake the trailer brakes. I imagine there is a pendulum on a gyro or something inside this brake controller that knows when you brake easy or hard.

Is the trailer supposed to brake it's full weight? A certain percentage and the truck at the ball is supposed to brake the remaining percentage?

Thank you guys. You are all a wealth of important information! Super helpful.

[videoarizona]

The Denali HD should have no problem towing what you are considering. The only issue I have with Denali is some come with low profile tires and wheels. Not good for towing. Yes, it is easy to change to different wheels and tires.

The turbo diesel is a good engine.

Also consider newer versions.... Looking at the trannies. Later years may have more gears. My Denali went from a 6 speed to an 8 speed gearbox when I went to a 2015. But I'm a 1/2 ton 4x4 with 6.2ltr. no troubles towingmy 6500lb trailer up Sunset Point.

I looked very serious at the 3/4t HDs but decided I'm not going to be towing anything heavier than what I have..

Good luck and let us know what you end up with.

[videoarizona]

The HD GMC with towing package, ie the Denali, should come with integrated brake controller. It also helps with anti-sway and traction. Adjustable gain as well. I like it very much.... Gain set at 7.

[Retired mountain folk]

Hi, we have a 2007 Duramax 2500HD, 4x4 - 8 cylinder diesel, stock but two size larger tires than it came with. It has the trailer towing pkg. We Only have a 12,000 lb trailer towing weight and 14,200 lb 5th wheel towing weight. The new diesels seem to have a much higher towing weight limit from what I see on line. Good luck, hope your new truck has a better weight rating for towing than the older ones do.