I'm guessing I'm Overweight...

[TxLoser]

It’s tough to get this right the first time around unless you have a set plan of what kind of RV’ing you plan to do from the get go. I’ve been through a few trucks to get it right. My last truck was actually a good fit for my trailer although I was 1000lbs give or take over GVWR. A 2016 Chevy 3/4 ton diesel. In the fall I decided I’d try and find a deal on a 19 Chevy as the new 20’s were hitting the lots. I really just wanted the newer engine/fuel pump design along with leather interior. Then, figured while I’m at it I’ll look for a 3500SRW to get the weights good on paper...see what all the hype’s about. I’m now within weights and the suspension does feel better. Works great in stock form where as with the 2500 I’d added sumo springs for the Eagle. I attribute the better ride towing to two factors. Newer suspension and of course the one mechanical difference between these two trucks....the added overload spring. Beyond that, it’s same truck on the underside.

I do think the 3/4 ton trucks are more capable than the 10K GVWR. GM has figured that out too. Look at the numbers on the 2020 models. Once you get into the DRW’s it’s of course a whole new discussion.

Based on my experience and what I’ve read, I’d follow this rule of thumb where Jayco’s are considered.

Minimum truck
Eagle HT: 3/4 ton gas or diesel
Eagle :1 ton gas or diesel
Pinnacle/NP: DRW diesel.

[AmericanBiker]

Originally Posted by nogfietsen

I have a 27.5 RLTS that I've towed with my 2017 F-250 PSD. Despite not appearing to have any difficulty at all either towing, stopping, or wind instability, I can't help but think I'm exceeding my payload. I have weighed the combined rig at a CAT scale but unfortunately did not unhitch and do a second weighing. Results of that first weighing were (all weights in lbs):

• Steer Axle: 4980
• Drive Axle: 5300
• Trailer Axle: 6700
• Gross weight: 16980

While I know to be entirely accurate I would need to do a proper weighing, just looking at the raw numbers concerns me.

Tow vehicle GVWR (from door panel): 10,000
Weight of 5'er (yellow sticker on unit): 8445
Subtracting these two numbers leaves 1,555 which I would have thought would be my payload, however the yellow door tag on my truck indicates the payload at 2,026

Using only these published weights, the remaining payload I would have using the calculated (1,555) and published (2026) payload capacities at the following PIN weight distributions would be as follows:

%. Calculated/Published
15%: 288/759
18%: 35/506
20%: -134/337
23%: -387/84
25%: -556/-85

And the numbers above do not account for passengers, hitch weight, etc. in the truck or anything loaded in the RV.

I understand the way in which RV is loaded will have an effect on the actual PIN weight and I was well below the GCVWR of my tow vehicle when I did my combined weighing.

Am I missing something here or is my 3/4-ton truck not safely capable of towing my half-ton 5th wheel?

Your truck will easily handle that 5er. You could even go bigger if you wanted too. The 10K GVWR is an artificial cap for registration purposes in many states.

[nogfietsen]

Moments after I posted my original message I realized it made little sense to subtract the UVW of my camper to the GVWR of my truck when trying to determine payload capacity...think this quarantine thing has affected my thought process.

To keep things simple - the weight of my truck with me in it, about a 1/2 tank of diesel and only the hitch in the bed weighed 8200 pounds. Wouldn't my payload capacity essentially be the GVWR of my truck (10000#) - 8200, or 1800 pounds?

[colby]

Originally Posted by nogfietsen

Moments after I posted my original message I realized it made little sense to subtract the UVW of my camper to the GVWR of my truck when trying to determine payload capacity...think this quarantine thing has affected my thought process.

To keep things simple - the weight of my truck with me in it, about a 1/2 tank of diesel and only the hitch in the bed weighed 8200 pounds. Wouldn't my payload capacity essentially be the GVWR of my truck (10000#) - 8200, or 1800 pounds?

To some degree yes (and the actual payload is on the door sticker), but that's more like total weight (or whatever you want to call it). Basically the official Payload is the difference between the truck GVWR and the curb weight of the vehicle (which is a full tank of gas, all factory options but no cargo, third party accessories and humans). When you add in all of the other things, yourself, other travellers, cargo, pin, pin weight of the trailer, etc., that's where the net weight of the truck needs to be below the GVWR. It's that other stuff that takes away from the official Payload.

According to the 2020 Jayco RTLS specs, the hitch weight is 1895 lbs. I'm not a fifth wheel guy; however, it seems that might put you over the GVWR.

The only true way to ensure that you are within limits is to weigh properly. This site - https://fifthwheelst.com/rv-weighing-worksheet.html, has a worksheet to help you with weighing your vehicle and fifth wheel to get the weights accurately.

If I screwed that up, someone please correct me

[nogfietsen]

Originally Posted by colby

To some degree yes (and the actual payload is on the door sticker), but that's more like total weight (or whatever you want to call it). Basically the official Payload is the difference between the truck GVWR and the curb weight of the vehicle (which is a full tank of gas, all factory options but no cargo, third party accessories and humans). When you add in all of the other things, yourself, other travellers, cargo, pin, pin weight of the trailer, etc., that's where the net weight of the truck needs to be below the GVWR. It's that other stuff that takes away from the official Payload.

According to the 2020 Jayco RTLS specs, the hitch weight is 1895 lbs. I'm not a fifth wheel guy; however, it seems that might put you over the GVWR.

The only true way to ensure that you are within limits is to weigh properly. This site - https://fifthwheelst.com/rv-weighing-worksheet.html, has a worksheet to help you with weighing your vehicle and fifth wheel to get the weights accurately.

If I screwed that up, someone please correct me

Thanks Colby - I agree with you...which was essentially the reason for my original title :-) With my wife and other items I typically put in the truck, I'm going to be over my GVWR.

Cheers,
Andy

[Rustic Eagle]

Andy,

Originally Posted by nogfietsen

snip..... the weight of my truck with me in it, about a 1/2 tank of diesel and only the hitch in the bed weighed 8200 pounds. Wouldn't my payload capacity essentially be the GVWR of my truck (10000#) - 8200, or 1800 pounds?

If your truck's scaled weight is 8,200lbs under the loaded conditions you described (post #23), then you are correct your "available" payload capacity would be 10,000lbs - 8,200lbs = 1,800lbs.

Bob

[AmericanBiker]

Do you seriously think that your truck is only capable of 10K GVWR? Peel that sticker off and throw it away if it makes you feel any better. Just use common sense, like running the rear tires at 80psi, etc.

[ctbailey]

Originally Posted by CampNow

The 10k GVWR found on 3/4-ton trucks has been debated for years.

Ford and Ram offer some of their HD trucks with *optional* GVWR's. The only difference is found on paper---no mechanical difference between the trucks. Ram offers some of their 3500 (1-ton) trucks with an optional 10k GVWR. The same exact truck can be purchased with a higher GVWR. Again, no mechanical difference between the trucks. Why? The 10k GVWR offers a path around some DOT regulations, and also offers lower registration costs in some states.

The 10k GVWR found on late model 3/4-ton trucks is also an artificial rating that offers a path around some DOT and state registration requirements. Ponder this question: Does anyone honestly believe the Big 3 is incapable of making a 3/4-ton truck with more than a 10k GVWR? If the Big 3 did offer a 3/4-ton truck with a GVWR higher than 10k, it would simply compete head-on with their 1-ton trucks. What's the point?

If you really want to determine the realworld capability of your 3/4-ton truck with a 10k GVWR, simply subtract the empty rear axle weight from the RAWR. That difference (for all intents and purposes), is your true payload available on the rear axle. Add that number (or difference) to the empty weight of the truck and you'll arrive at the *realworld* GVWR (the true capability) of your truck. A realworld GVWR that is *not* encumbered by an administrative or artificial GVWR meant to offer a path around DOT and state registration requirements.

I am in this "camp" as well.



US Federal DOT classifies trucks.
Class 2 = LIGHT TRUCK = up to 10,000 pounds GVW
Class 3 = MEDIUM DUTY = >10,001 POUNDS GVW


The F-450 Pickup is a Class 3 Truck.
the F-450 Chassis Cab is a Class 4 truck.


Our 3/4 ton truck "payload inadequacies" are political.


I'm not suggesting people consider their 3/4T truck a "One Ton." because in the eyes of the law... a 3/4T truck is different than a 1T truck.


Its America, if you don't like to rules and regulations, work to change them. Otherwise just deal with it.


a One ton truck is only another $1200 on the sticker on average over a well appointed 3/4T.


I think most RVers just need to get over their fear of owning a one ton. I know personally I'll never go back to a 3/4T. The numbers just work better in all respects with the Class 3 Truck.

[AmericanBiker]

Originally Posted by ctbailey

The numbers just work better in all respects with the Class 3 Truck.

Unless you are trying to stay under the "magic" 26001 lb GCVWR so as to avoid needing a non-commercial class A license in some states.