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Old 10-10-2014, 11:09 AM   #21
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I towed a hybrid that was 4500 dry and my half ton with 5.3L and 4.10 gears was not liking the hills of central NY at all. I think its capacity was low 8K and I would not want to be anywhere near that..
My 1/2 ton with the 5.3 and 3.42's is rated for 9600 lbs and tows my 29BHS just fine. Been in the hills and on the flats.
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Old 10-10-2014, 11:14 AM   #22
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I pulled more trailer than I should have with 1/2 ton's for a bunch of years. We did ok with it. I learned not to "beat" my truck by buying a few transmissions. I agree with locking out 6th or highest gear and don't use cruise control. Drive and feel and don't beat the horses.
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Old 10-10-2014, 12:02 PM   #23
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I read though a lot of the post but did not see this question.

We pull our 30 foot DSRE with a Tahoe 5.3 tow package 3.43 in tow mode. It will barely pull it on flat ground. If you set the cruise at 65 MPH or above it will not hold it. It slows enough that it has to shift down to regain the set speed then shifts back up. The process never stops. If we drive 60 MPH on flat ground it pulls OK but at 60 MPH on the interstate will get you ran over. This started the day we pulled it home. Is the term 1/2 ton towable is a stretch. WE knew before we bought the TT a new TV was in the future because we go to the West Coast or Rockies ever year. We get around 8 MPG at 60 MPH if we increase up to 65 MPH it drops to 6.5 MPG So now we are looking for a 3/4.

So what I am wondering is am the only with this problem?
Does the Ford Eco Boos do this
What about the Ram Hemi does it do this?
Does the newer Chevys have this problem?
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The closer you are to your vehicles towing capacity the worse off you will be. If what your are hauling is 80% or less of what you could pull you probably have the right truck trailer combination. My Jimmy HD,CC, 4x4, 6.0 gas is rated 13K. I could be pulling 9500, trailer 7100 gross, cap, DW, fuel and all Camping Related Accessories Present (CRAP for short!) pulls ok, stops and handles ok rides good. mpg stinks- a squeak over 7.
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Old 10-10-2014, 12:05 PM   #24
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Since I own and have towed with both of the same model year, my 2 cents worth are in the link below on the differences in the 1500/2500 in regards to the trucks themselves and the towing experience each provided with my 28BHS. And yes the term 1/2 and 3/4 ton are obsolete as my "3/4'' ton truck has over a 1.5 ton payload.

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=11464
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Old 10-10-2014, 12:18 PM   #25
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of course a bigger truck is going to tow better and the fuel economy not towing is going to be worse the bigger you go.

An MDT is going to out tow a 3/4 ton or 1 ton all day.

But is it necessary? maybe to some and I guarantee there are 3/4 tons and 1 tons out there overloaded

Like has been said..it depends on the person behind the wheel only.

Every one might cringe at my setup and feel extremely nervous driving down the road...me?...

I love it. One hand on the wheel , relaxed and cruising. Am I blowing the doors off people?..NO...wouldn't go any faster if I could. But I travel down the interstate doing 65 without a problem...maybe 50 up the steep hills but oh well....no worries..there is always the top eventually.

Besides I love the sound of that Japanese V6 blasting out revs at 4000.

my 2 cents


One thing I am quite sure of....if there was a limit on tow vehicles and you needed a 3/4 ton or 1 ton to buy a 6000 lb and up trailer or these ones advertised as "1/2 ton towable" the RV industry would not exist.

people would give it up.
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Old 10-10-2014, 12:36 PM   #26
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The closer you are to your vehicles towing capacity the worse off you will be. If what your are hauling is 80% or less of what you could pull you probably have the right truck trailer combination. My Jimmy HD,CC, 4x4, 6.0 gas is rated 13K. I could be pulling 9500, trailer 7100 gross, cap, DW, fuel and all Camping Related Accessories Present (CRAP for short!) pulls ok, stops and handles ok rides good. mpg stinks- a squeak over 7.
When we were in the market to buy a trailer with our TV (see below) we were constantly told that we should buy a TT that was 80% of the weight capacity of our TV. That is why we bought a 19H instead of another model that might have generally suited us but was way over that magic 80% number.
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Old 10-10-2014, 12:41 PM   #27
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There is no such 80 percent rule. I have worked in the auto industry my whole life and no automotive engineer that I know of ever said 80 percent was max
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Old 10-10-2014, 12:55 PM   #28
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I guarantee there are 3/4 tons and 1 tons out there overloaded
Of course. I see it around here all the time. A 48 foot flatbed trailer loaded to the sky with round bails is pretty damn heavy.
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Old 10-10-2014, 01:08 PM   #29
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I do enjoy pulling 12K lbs, staying in cruise, under 2000 rpm, going uphill at 60 mph and sometimes it drops to 5'th but not always.....But that's just me.
But like I said you can pull with anything and I pretty much have over the past 35 years. Common sense is not all that common, but useful if you have it.

I will say again if you beat on your TV you will be spending money on like they write books about. Heat kills and work = heat.....hard work = more heat.
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Old 10-10-2014, 01:09 PM   #30
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There are some dodge and ford 3500 rated over 30,000 GVW...
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Old 10-10-2014, 01:43 PM   #31
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I may be at max and most 1/2 ton guys are as well but I do not think that means we are "beating" on anything. With proper driving and maintenance my vehicle will last as long as any other with no repairs.

we had all kinds of 3/4 tons and 1 tons in our shop getting repairs...
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Old 10-10-2014, 02:08 PM   #32
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There is no such 80 percent rule. I have worked in the auto industry my whole life and no automotive engineer that I know of ever said 80 percent was max
To me, the issue is not whether any engineer ever said it, but that it works out to be common sense given that you will probably load both your TV and your TT to come pretty close to the max. that is published by the mfg. of the TT given the 80% guideline (note I don't say absolute RULE!).
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Old 10-10-2014, 03:03 PM   #33
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The 80% deal is an unwritten "rule" that to my understanding was more or less created by RV`ers. It is a simple equation where you only tow a trailer that is 80% of your vehicles tow rating, leaving the other 20% for passengers, cargo in the vehicle and any other variables that may arise. It is by no means absolute but a general guideline to allow some margin for error. It does not however address the issue of payload, which may still be exceeded in some vehicles when considering the tongue weight of the trailer, passengers and gear in the truck. In some cases the payload or lack thereof can be more of a concern in the 1/2 tons then the tow rating of the truck.
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Old 10-10-2014, 03:44 PM   #34
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To me, the issue is not whether any engineer ever said it, but that it works out to be common sense given that you will probably load both your TV and your TT to come pretty close to the max. that is published by the mfg. of the TT given the 80% guideline (note I don't say absolute RULE!).
Common sense were the two key words in your post. It seems to be in rather short supply at times.
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Old 10-10-2014, 04:22 PM   #35
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"Half ton towable" is mostly a sales gimmick. Half ton trucks don't have any business hauling more than 5000-6000 pounds. There's simply not enough chassis there to do it.
If you are towing 100% of the time, this is probably true. I would venture a guess that most people towing with 1/2 ton trucks probably tow less than 3000 miles per year, or less than 25% of the time. Modern half tons with the appropriate gearing and engine, using appropriate WDH and trailers with brakes will do fine up to around 8000 or so lbs. Just like anything else, you need the proper gear and a competent driver. An idiot pulling 1000 lbs behind a 1 ton can cause a lot more carnage than an experienced driver with an overweight truck...

People get all bent out of shape with a 7200 lbs GVWR truck pulling a 8000 lbs trailer. They talk about the "tail wagging the dog" and speculate on what will happen if the trailer brakes fail.

Ironically, these are the same people usually towing a 12,000 lbs trailer with a 8800 lbs GVWR truck. Somehow a trailer that weighs 800 lbs more than the truck is too much... but a trailer that is 3200 lbs more is ok. The half ton trucks brakes are going to fail if the 8000 lbs trailer brakes fail... but the 3/4 or 1 ton trucks will be able to stop the 12,000 lbs trailer.

That doesn't make sense to me.

Short of towing with a HDT, if your trailer brakes fail you are out of luck if you are headed downhill. The brakes on the 3/4 ton truck might last for another couple hundred feet... but they won't stop 20,000 lbs of weight moving downhill. Its just not going to happen.
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Old 10-10-2014, 05:17 PM   #36
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If you are towing 100% of the time, this is probably true. I would venture a guess that most people towing with 1/2 ton trucks probably tow less than 3000 miles per year, or less than 25% of the time. Modern half tons with the appropriate gearing and engine, using appropriate WDH and trailers with brakes will do fine up to around 8000 or so lbs. Just like anything else, you need the proper gear and a competent driver. An idiot pulling 1000 lbs behind a 1 ton can cause a lot more carnage than an experienced driver with an overweight truck...

People get all bent out of shape with a 7200 lbs GVWR truck pulling a 8000 lbs trailer. They talk about the "tail wagging the dog" and speculate on what will happen if the trailer brakes fail.

Ironically, these are the same people usually towing a 12,000 lbs trailer with a 8800 lbs GVWR truck. Somehow a trailer that weighs 800 lbs more than the truck is too much... but a trailer that is 3200 lbs more is ok. The half ton trucks brakes are going to fail if the 8000 lbs trailer brakes fail... but the 3/4 or 1 ton trucks will be able to stop the 12,000 lbs trailer.

That doesn't make sense to me.

Short of towing with a HDT, if your trailer brakes fail you are out of luck if you are headed downhill. The brakes on the 3/4 ton truck might last for another couple hundred feet... but they won't stop 20,000 lbs of weight moving downhill. Its just not going to happen.

perfect post. I agree 100 percent.

Good time to close this one
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Old 10-10-2014, 07:29 PM   #37
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Ok, man, got way off track here.

I have an Ecoboost and it tows very well. I have no concerns for safety, but like said I'm not trying to win any races. Just want to be safe.

I believe with a 1500/150 level truck, you will run out of payload/GVWR before you reach your GCWR or max towing capability.

I am very intrigued by the new 6.4 L Hemi in a 2500. I don't think the cost/maintenance/gas vs the towing are beneficial for a diesel.

But like everyone has said, I think it's up to you. If you look at all your limits and pick a TV that meets these needs, you'll be happy.
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Old 10-10-2014, 08:05 PM   #38
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http://www.tfltruck.com/2013/10/unsa...vealed-part-1/

Have fun checking out the above post
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Old 10-11-2014, 06:35 AM   #39
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If you are towing 100% of the time, this is probably true. I would venture a guess that most people towing with 1/2 ton trucks probably tow less than 3000 miles per year, or less than 25% of the time. Modern half tons with the appropriate gearing and engine, using appropriate WDH and trailers with brakes will do fine up to around 8000 or so lbs. Just like anything else, you need the proper gear and a competent driver. An idiot pulling 1000 lbs behind a 1 ton can cause a lot more carnage than an experienced driver with an overweight truck...

People get all bent out of shape with a 7200 lbs GVWR truck pulling a 8000 lbs trailer. They talk about the "tail wagging the dog" and speculate on what will happen if the trailer brakes fail.

Ironically, these are the same people usually towing a 12,000 lbs trailer with a 8800 lbs GVWR truck. Somehow a trailer that weighs 800 lbs more than the truck is too much... but a trailer that is 3200 lbs more is ok. The half ton trucks brakes are going to fail if the 8000 lbs trailer brakes fail... but the 3/4 or 1 ton trucks will be able to stop the 12,000 lbs trailer.

That doesn't make sense to me.

Short of towing with a HDT, if your trailer brakes fail you are out of luck if you are headed downhill. The brakes on the 3/4 ton truck might last for another couple hundred feet... but they won't stop 20,000 lbs of weight moving downhill. Its just not going to happen.
The brakes of a HD truck may not be tons better but I can set my diesel to engine brake at any speed I want and it'll do it with my 12K lb load until I turn it off.

Also, I wouldn't ever advocate towing over max weight. It's a major legal issue. Wait until you get in a wreck. If they find out any component of you rig was overweight, you will be liable wether it's your fault or not. Also, your TV is only as good as the weakest link - the transmission. You may think you truck is ok, but your tranny will fail earlier than it would have had you not overloaded it. Talk to any tranny shop. I highly recommend not towing over gross weight. Even if you think you guys are "good enough to handle it".
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Old 10-11-2014, 06:44 AM   #40
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I have towed our white hawk unloaded at 6200lbs with my 5.3 1500 and max towing package rated for 7200. It pulled the trailer but was not conformable and gas mileage was terrible. Purchased a 2500hd gas and just towed with water and loaded, probably 7000lbs plus the family and full fuel, firewood and grill. At 65-70 and 1800-2100rpms until I hit 55South just south of Chicago I was getting 11.6mpg. Once I hit the constant incline rpm stayed constant around 2300-2500 and dropped to 11.1mpg. So I would suggest getting a 3/4 ton. Worth the investment. Plenty of power when you need. At times I forget the trailer is even behind the truck.
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