Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
Jayco RV Owners Forum
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-05-2020, 05:57 PM   #21
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Winchester
Posts: 83
Sorry, I'm having trouble following what you are doing. Here's how I would do it (it maybe what you already did). You will need an ice pick style test light.
1. With trailer harness unhooked test vehicle to make sure everything has power as it should on the vehicle and that left and right blinkers blink the test light.
2. If that all checks out hook up the trailer harness. Using the tester, poke the wires on the down stream side of the harness.
3. If that is good remove the lenses and make sure you have power to the bulb socket and that the bulbs are good. If they are old style they will have dual filaments. You can burn out blinkers and still have stops. If they are 1157 bulbs the socket is ground and the nipples inside are power. One for tail lights and one for stop/blinker.
4. If there is no power to the socket I would remove the light assembly and test the wires themselves.
5. After all that if you have power at the trailer side of the harness but none at the light then a wire is broke somewhere.
Adios Pantelones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2020, 06:45 PM   #22
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Green Bay
Posts: 24
I will try to explain a bit better I read through all of my stuff and I can see how it was pretty confusing.



1. I used a jumper from the 12VDC of the battery to the Running Lights pin (on the outside of the camper hitch - no vehicle involved). The lights all turned on except the right rear.

2. I used the same jumper and now tied to the Right Blinker pin. the right rear light lights up (solid of course since no blinker relay is involved).

3. I used the same jumper and now tied to the Left Blinker pin. The left rear light lights up (solid of course since no blinker relay is involved. At least double the brightness of the left rear in step 2.



Now... that is the camper side of things. When I had my vehicle connected, the right blinker did NOT work. I will have to test again when I take the camper back down (we were prepping it for travel next week). I will likely take it down tomorrow and find out more from the vehicle side. But, I know the vehicle 4-pin works with every other type of vehicle - so I don't think the wiring is wrong there.
Covington is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2020, 06:52 PM   #23
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Winchester
Posts: 83
That makes sense. I wouldn't rely on past towing as a measure of things working though. If you haven't tested the vehicle side I would start there.
Adios Pantelones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2020, 06:59 PM   #24
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Green Bay
Posts: 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adios Pantelones View Post
That makes sense. I wouldn't rely on past towing as a measure of things working though. If you haven't tested the vehicle side I would start there.
ok. no problem. will do that soon. But - based upon the information in my last post it is easy to see something isn't quite right. All the lights should light up with the Running Lights pin. And it is surprising that the lights light up at different brightness with the blinker pins.
Covington is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2020, 07:28 PM   #25
Site Team
 
JFlightRisk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Newark, NY
Posts: 15,888
Do the taillamps have 1157 bulbs, or the newer 3157? If they're 1157s, is there a possibility the bulb was installed backwards on the right rear lamp? I've seen that happen before on trailers. The sockets for those style bulbs aren't of the best design.
__________________
Moderator
Think you're too old to cry or swear out loud...walk into your hitch in the dark.

2012 Jay Flight 19RD
2016 Ford F150 XLT 2X4 SC 3.5L Eco Max Tow
2010 Tundra TRD DBL Cab (Traded)
2 new fluffy Corgis, Bayley and Stanley
JFlightRisk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2020, 07:30 PM   #26
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Green Bay
Posts: 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by JFlightRisk View Post
Do the taillamps have 1157 bulbs, or the newer 3157? If they're 1157s, is there a possibility the bulb was installed backwards on the right rear lamp? I've seen that happen before on trailers. The sockets for those style bulbs aren't of the best design.
Both are 3157 GE bulbs. I have an extra and tried that also just to be sure. I even swapped it around both ways to see if there was any difference (none)
Covington is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2020, 07:37 PM   #27
Site Team
 
JFlightRisk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Newark, NY
Posts: 15,888
I understand. These electrical issues can be very frustrating. It would be nice if those electrons weren't so invisible, and elusive. I eliminated most problems on out TT by changing them out for LEDs. I didn't give problems a chance to crop up.
__________________
Moderator
Think you're too old to cry or swear out loud...walk into your hitch in the dark.

2012 Jay Flight 19RD
2016 Ford F150 XLT 2X4 SC 3.5L Eco Max Tow
2010 Tundra TRD DBL Cab (Traded)
2 new fluffy Corgis, Bayley and Stanley
JFlightRisk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2020, 07:59 PM   #28
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Green Bay
Posts: 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by JFlightRisk View Post
I understand. These electrical issues can be very frustrating. It would be nice if those electrons weren't so invisible, and elusive. I eliminated most problems on out TT by changing them out for LEDs. I didn't give problems a chance to crop up.
ha. true enough. Surprisingly, I'm an EE. But I'm used to tracing things I can see, having a wiring diagram that is accurate, or designing myself Maybe LED isn't a bad way to go - I really want to just rewire this whole damned camper to be honest... but I also don't want to spend a ton during this crazy time either.
Covington is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2020, 08:10 PM   #29
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Green Bay
Posts: 24
When I look at the following schematic (generic, not Jayco-specific) and the right-side tail light in the corner that I put a purple square around - I would assume that the Orange wire (Running Lights) is broken. I would also theorize that there is a voltage drop on the green wire which would be powered by the blinker pin (possible corrosion or mouse-work?).




The problem here is that I don't see any way to get to that wiring at all. I may have to take apart the inside of the camper to get to it, which is tough with the bed there.
Covington is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2020, 08:38 PM   #30
Site Team
 
JFlightRisk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Newark, NY
Posts: 15,888
Your schematic looks spot on. Being 15 years old, either's possible, but I'd lean towards the corrosion/bad connection idea. We've all seen some pretty iffy connections on the 12 volt side of campers made with household wire nuts, instead of crimp connectors, and ground connections on the frames loose, corroded, or broken off. My junction box is on the front frame crossmember, and is just an unsealed steel box, right where it gets a bath from the truck on wet roads. I've sealed it the best I can, until it gets replaced by a weatherproof junction.
__________________
Moderator
Think you're too old to cry or swear out loud...walk into your hitch in the dark.

2012 Jay Flight 19RD
2016 Ford F150 XLT 2X4 SC 3.5L Eco Max Tow
2010 Tundra TRD DBL Cab (Traded)
2 new fluffy Corgis, Bayley and Stanley
JFlightRisk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2020, 09:28 PM   #31
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Winchester
Posts: 83
Normally lights that are dimmer than others point to a loose or bad ground. Just for giggles run a jumper from the ground on the TV to a good bare spot on the trailer frame.
Adios Pantelones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2020, 06:58 PM   #32
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Green Bay
Posts: 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adios Pantelones View Post
Normally lights that are dimmer than others point to a loose or bad ground. Just for giggles run a jumper from the ground on the TV to a good bare spot on the trailer frame.
No difference from what I could tell in brightness with the right blinker pin and jumpering to ground on a good spot (cleaned and sanded slightly to ensure good connection). Also - light still didn't turn on with running lights. Will look into it a bit more again tomorrow.
Covington is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2020, 09:58 PM   #33
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Michigan
Posts: 439
We got one of those things that helps slow the tow and the trailer down when braking. I thought it was an electric brake thing too. But I guess it doesn't hurt to have one inside the tow vehicle and on the trailer. No problems so far. I have camping world check it all out in April. Good luck.
spark of insanity is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Jayco, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:13 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2002-2016 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.