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Old 06-20-2013, 02:28 AM   #1
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need help hooling up breakaway switch

Oops! HOOKING up...

I realized today (after having towed TT twice before) that my emergency TT brake switch is not hooked up. As I look at the wires from the switch, one goes under the TT alongside the cable for the 7 pin. The other has an inline fuse holder, but is not connected to anything.

1) Which side does that wire connect to?

2)What amperage should the fuse be?

3) Would this have caused my ABS light to come on while towing? It did come on, and I don't know why. It's fine when I'm not towing.

Thanks
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Old 06-20-2013, 05:52 AM   #2
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The fused wire goes to positive terminal on your trailer battery and the negative goes to the negative terminal or if it is too short just ground it to he trailer frame. The fuse amperage should say on top of the little cover on the fuse holder. I would think 15 amp but make sure you check if the fuse were too weak and popped it would lock up your trailer brakes. As far as the ABS I am not sure. On that mine has never come on, is your trailer brake controller setup properly?
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Old 06-20-2013, 06:53 AM   #3
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The break-away switch allows full TT battery current to the electric trailer brakes when the pin is pulled. Normally this would consist of a direct positive terminal battery connection - through the break-away switch - and into the front primary low voltage junction box where it would connect to the brake wire of the 7-PIN connector.

But before you do anything - it would really help to get some pictures from you and a description of your TT and TV....and a picture of your TT connection

Regarding your ABS light....finishing the connection for the breakaway switch does nothing. It will still be an incomplete circuit (until the pin gets pulled, of course).
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Old 06-20-2013, 07:13 AM   #4
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The breakaway switch connects directly to the battery, not the 7-pin connector. Why would it? If the trailer breaks away from theTV, including the electrical connector, you want the trailer brakes to lock up with full battery(trailer) voltage.

Derek, if the fuse popped, the trailer brakes would not operate at all. I don't think the switch is even fused, but may be. I have never seen one on either trailer I have owned. The only switch I've found is the 30A one that goes to the trailer.
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:04 AM   #5
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Good time to discuss breakaway switches! (these are something, like a fire extinguisher....you hope you never have to use them, but you are sure glad they are there!).

When I recently purchased my 9 year old 21FB Jay Flight, I didnt think about asking about, or testing the breakaway switch. I did test it before our first scheduled outing and found that it was totally fubar and rusted out inside (although it looked fine on the outside). Luckily Amazon came through and I had my new one in a couple days and was able to keep on schedule.

Interestingly enough, the instructions with the new switch said these should be replaced every five years or so (for the very reason I replaced mine).

How old is your switch? When was the last time you tested it?

Best regards and happy camping!
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Old 06-20-2013, 11:18 PM   #6
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How does one test the switch. Sure-the nylon piece pops out. But how do I tell it's engaging the brakes? Would it be an audible pop?
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Old 06-20-2013, 11:19 PM   #7
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How does one test the switch? Sure-the nylon piece pops out. But how do I tell it's engaging the brakes? Would it be an audible pop? I think I'll just replace it. There's no telling HOW old it is.
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Old 06-20-2013, 11:48 PM   #8
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I found this in some dusty corner of the forum https://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...eakaway-switch
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Old 06-21-2013, 07:14 AM   #9
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I will add to the above "each" BRAKE MAGNET installed on the trailer will draw 3 AMPs when supplied 12VDC from the battery... For a single axle two BRAKE MAGNET setup I would use a 15-20AMP fuse - For a dual axle four BRAKE MAGNET setup I would use a 30-40 AMP fuse. The primary reason for the fuse is to protect the wiring in case of short circuit.

You can test the breakway brake switch by just pulling the plunger out. It will be a good tug... Also note the plunger is KEYED and only goes back in place one way when you put it back. This is how DOT will inspect your trailer brakes by pulling your brake plunger and then asking you to pull forward. Hopefully your trailer brakes will slide otherwise thats when they come out with the large write-up pad... DOT RV trailer inspections are very rare but they have happened as reported by some on these RV FORUMS...

Just my thoughts
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Old 06-21-2013, 07:51 AM   #10
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I tested mine when I had the wheel(s) off the ground for a brake and bearing inspection, but you can do this anytime. Just need one wheel up to do it this way. Pull the plunger all the way out (NOTE! Ensure you are not hooked up to the TV electrically! You can damage your brake controller!). When I tested mine, I could actually hear the magnets and then I tried to rotate the elevated wheel. Plug the plunger back in and all done (Make sure wheel turns).
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