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Old 07-23-2013, 11:54 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by dakranii View Post
I figured I'd just pack our cargo in the van rather than the trailer. But that might not be best practice. Where should I pack my stuff, the back of the van or in the trailer. And if in the trailer, back, front?
I'd put it in the van if you have room and weight capacity. Why? It will be less weight behind the hitch to affect sway control and handling. Don't forget to figure in the weight of batteries, propane and fresh water. These aren't figured in on the UVW...battery +40-50lbs. per batt, + 37 lbs. propane per 20# cylinder. These weights are often on the trailer tongue so figure in that as well. Suprisingly, these alone can significantly effect handling and sway if the tongue weight gets to be too high. In which case, you may need to rear load your TT with cargo to offset this added load.
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Old 07-23-2013, 12:25 PM   #12
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One more thing I would do is call you vehicle’s manufacture, have your vin number in hand. I would ask them about the tow capacity and how they calculate it. Is it based having a full tank of fuel and only the driver, or is it based on having an occupant in each seat and no cargo, or with cargo. My brother’s last minivan had the tow rating listed as just a single number. His current minivan has it listed multiple times based on the number of passengers, but it does not mention anything about interior cargo. I would also ask about your hitch and its capacity (if it is an OEM hitch).

As for hitches, if your vehicle can handle a WDH I would strongly recommend one with an integrated anti-sway system, such as Equilizer or the Reese Dual Cam brands.

You are doing the right thing by asking the questions now.
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Old 07-23-2013, 01:20 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle View Post
That's good to know because just about every other Jayco HTT, TT, and FW the actual Ship Weight (yellow sticker) is anywhere from 250lbs to 700lbs above the published UVW (depending on how it is configured). In the case of the 154BH having the UVW and Ship Weight at 2,450lbs works in favor of the limited CCC.

Thanks for the confirmation.

Bob
Wanted to make sure I was on target, so here's the "yellow sticker" on my 154BH...It's 2,550# (not 2,450#), however, they include a full propane tank.....

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Dakranii - as Rustic, myself and Roy have indicated....you do want to pursue the option of WDH and at minimum....anti-sway
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Old 07-23-2013, 01:36 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by dakranii View Post

So my hitch and ball mount weigh 59 pounds combined. I would also include anything I've got stored in the back of the van, so camping equipment. Say another 50 pounds. Total I've got 109 pounds behind the rear axle.

15% of that is about 16 pounds. I'd add that to the 260 pound tongue weight of the 154BH?
Yes sir...while it's not directly applying pressure on the ball and hitch.....you are adding to the compression of the TV springs (how your vehicles sits) and how much weight is actually being managed by the WDH bars (if present).
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Old 07-23-2013, 06:13 PM   #15
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snip....... that is about 16 pounds. I'd add that to the 260 pound tongue weight of the 154BH?
As mentioned, it isn't so much that the "percentage" of weight is added directly to the 154BH's loaded tongue weight directly, it actually has an effect on sizing some WDH's because the WDH spring bars will also be supporting a percentage (depends on location) of the added cargo weight behind a given TV's rear axle. This becomes more of a realized issue when folks place heavy items like generators, fire wood, golf carts, etc., behind the rear axle. But as you are aware, any added TV cargo weight, WDH weight, and loaded tongue weight should not allow the TV to exceed it's specified GVWR.

Referencing your estimate of 109lbs of added weight behind your rear axle, your TV would incur the full 109lbs, not a percentage of the weight.

Also, remember that Jayco's published 260lb tongue (hitch) weight is based on an "unloaded" 154BH, thinking in terms of a potential "loaded" tongue weight would be more realistic.

It's great that you are taking the time to understand the relationship/impact of loaded TV and HTT weights..., it will pay dividends going forward.

Bob
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Old 07-23-2013, 07:16 PM   #16
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FYI.... watch the hitch limit of your mini-van.

We towed a 3000lb+ (loaded) Casita with a 2006 Honda Odyssey mini-van. Most of those mini-vans have a hitch limit of 300lbs. Consider what you will be stowing in the rear of the mini-van as added weight. Not a tow-techy, but from experience, hope this helps
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Old 07-24-2013, 01:54 PM   #17
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FYI.... watch the hitch limit of your mini-van.
Sorry, explain this further to me. I'm not sure what you mean by "hitch limit." This entire world of terminology and acronyms and options is new to me as of about a week ago, so I'm trying to keep up. I'm getting a Curt class III hitch put on the van. (http://www.curtmfg.com/part/13364/). It's 4000/400 and 5000/500 with a WDH.
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Old 07-24-2013, 01:57 PM   #18
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I'm looking at WDHs now. Lots of options. Another set of confusing bits to sort through. I'm assuming I'm looking for something with 600 lbs.

During my search I came across the Andersen WDH. I like it. I see that the jury is still out on it, at least based on what I've read. But with the light weight of my trailer, I'm sensing the outstanding questions may not be an issue for me? As in, the outstanding issues seem to be around considerably heavier loads.

Otherwise, if the prevailing wisdom is that I should stick with a traditional WDH, please help me understand sway control.

Some WDHs include sway control and some don't? With those that don't, do I get a separate sway control device?
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Old 07-24-2013, 02:38 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakranii View Post
I'm looking at WDHs now. Lots of options. Another set of confusing bits to sort through. I'm assuming I'm looking for something with 600 lbs.

During my search I came across the Andersen WDH. I like it. I see that the jury is still out on it, at least based on what I've read. But with the light weight of my trailer, I'm sensing the outstanding questions may not be an issue for me? As in, the outstanding issues seem to be around considerably heavier loads.

Otherwise, if the prevailing wisdom is that I should stick with a traditional WDH, please help me understand sway control.

Some WDHs include sway control and some don't? With those that don't, do I get a separate sway control device?

Yes some WD systems such as the Equalizer and Reese SC with Dual cam incorporate sway control into the WD system. Other systems just take care of the weight distribution in which case a " friction sway bar" would be added. Not familiar with the Anderson. I know all this can seem overwhelming at first but you will get through it!


Friction sway bar:



Equalizer hitch system WITH sway control




WD system with NO sway control:

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Old 07-24-2013, 10:16 PM   #20
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Isnip........ Otherwise, if the prevailing wisdom is that I should stick with a traditional WDH, please help me understand sway control.......snip
I agree, IMO keep it simple with the 154BH, if you go with a WDH I would stay with a light duty conventional WDH (Reese, DrawTite, Husky, etc.) and add the standard friction control sway bar like the one you provided a link to in an earlier post (like the pic that Crabman posted).

Bob
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