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Old 08-03-2015, 11:47 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by need-a-vacation View Post
DO NOT grease the bars where they ride on the L brackets. That is how sway is controlled (part of it anyway) with the Equal-I-Zer 4 way system.

Good luck!
You actually can grease the bars where they ride on the L bracket. It has the same effect as using the L-bracket jackets--the only difference is that the jackets are not as messy as grease. Progress Mfg has noted that using the jackets (or grease) will slightly degrade anti-sway capability, but not to any significant degree.

From the manual:
In some cases the friction on the L-brackets or sockets also generates noise. This most commonly occurs during slow, tight turns where the tow vehicle and trailer are in a twist. This noise is normal and should be expected. It is an indication that there is friction on the L-bracket and sockets.
Most of the noise will usually subside after a few uses as the hitch breaks in. Trailer and tow vehicle loading may also influence hitch noise. Lubricating the socket joint may help reduce this noise, and is part of the required regular maintenance routine. Lubricating the L-bracket joint is optional. A better solution is a set of official Equal-i-zer brand Sway Bracket Jackets. They quiet the ride without the mess of using a lubricant.
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Old 08-03-2015, 01:22 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by AV8B6015 View Post
Thanks for all the suggestions.

As for the drop, 9" drop is the biggest Equal-i-zer makes, and I spent a good amount of time on the phone with them to make sure I was going to be able to use their setup. After measuring everything exactly the way they told me to, they said to get the 9". When I tow, the trailer sits almost perfectly level, maybe even the tiniest bit nose low. When we set the hitch up, the measurements from the front of the trailer to the back were off by around 1/8th of an inch.
That is perfect. You can be off as much as an inch to an inch and a half before needing to move the hitch head.

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Originally Posted by AV8B6015 View Post
I really think the "L" brackets just need to come down (I had them at the initial setting, right in the middle). Then, if tension on the bars seems too little, I can add a washer to the hitch head. I'm just going to have to play with it a little, I'm sure.
If the bars are not parallel to the trailer tongue when you look at them from the side then yes, you need to move the brackets. On my 27DSRL I have the brackets as low as they will go and they are parallel to the tongue. I use 5 washers for tension.

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Originally Posted by AV8B6015 View Post
Ill be sure to look for burrs and galling, too. I will mess with it this week, and I'll let everyone know what I come up with. Thanks!!
If you remove the spring bar swivels don't smack them with a hard hammer, they are themselves hardened and could crack. I used a 3 pound dead blow hammer and one of the spring bars to get mine out. Good luck, keep at it and you will be successful!
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Old 08-03-2015, 01:34 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Russ661 View Post
If the bars are not parallel to the trailer tongue when you look at them from the side then yes, you need to move the brackets. On my 27DSRL I have the brackets as low as they will go and they are parallel to the tongue. I use 5 washers for tension.
I think Russ nailed it with this right here. In the instructions, it should state (it used to anyway) that the spring bars should be parallel to the trailer frame. This will maximize the friction point between the ends of the bars and the spring bar hangers, thereby maximizing your sway control effectiveness. I have my spring bar hangers at their second-to-lowest setting and the head tilted with 5 washers and my bars angle slightly upward, but it's the best I can get with what I have (though that's pretty specific and may or may not apply to your situation). Either way, I would get as much adjustment from tilting the head using washers as you can to allow the bars to ride as close to parallel with the frame as you can get.

Added: One of the things that makes it more difficult for me is that the coupler on my trailer is mounted to the bottom of the trailer frame, thus putting the whole kit lower. So then the spring bar hangers have to go down to accommodate that setup.
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Old 08-04-2015, 01:52 PM   #14
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Ok, here is the latest. I moved the L brackets to their lowest position and added 2 washers to the hitch head for a total of 5. Took it to an empty parking lot to do some measuring and to test drive it. Drive was good, didn't feel unstable at all. Still pretty noisy though.

The trailer sits within 5/8" of being totally level and the fender well measurements are good. The arms are still not parallel to the trailer tongue, but they're closer.

I called Equal-i-zer, and they said I can flip the mounts for the L brackets upside down, which would allow me to lower the L brackets more. He said I can also have up to 8 washers on the hitch head if needed.

I'm going on a short trip this weekend, so I'm going to try it as is, and If I need to, I'll try flipping the mounts and going from there.
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Old 08-04-2015, 02:15 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by AV8B6015 View Post
Ok, here is the latest. I moved the L brackets to their lowest position and added 2 washers to the hitch head for a total of 5. Took it to an empty parking lot to do some measuring and to test drive it. Drive was good, didn't feel unstable at all. Still pretty noisy though.

The trailer sits within 5/8" of being totally level and the fender well measurements are good. The arms are still not parallel to the trailer tongue, but they're closer.

I called Equal-i-zer, and they said I can flip the mounts for the L brackets upside down, which would allow me to lower the L brackets more. He said I can also have up to 8 washers on the hitch head if needed.

I'm going on a short trip this weekend, so I'm going to try it as is, and If I need to, I'll try flipping the mounts and going from there.
My spring bar mounts are "flipped", meaning the studs are in the lower position. Forgot to mention that.
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Old 08-05-2015, 01:48 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Camper_bob View Post
My spring bar mounts are "flipped", meaning the studs are in the lower position. Forgot to mention that.
Oh yea, I didn't even think of that! Mine are flipped also. I'll bet if you do that you will be golden!
When I back the truck up to the trailer tongue with the hitch and sway bars installed and the trailer coupler sitting just high enough to allow the ball to get under it my sway bars are about an inch below the L brackets. I have to lower the tongue onto the ball, close the latch and raise the tongue and the truck with the tongue jack until I can get the sway bars on to the L brackets. That is how much preload I have on mine.
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Old 08-12-2015, 01:57 PM   #17
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Hey av8b6015

Ever get that hitch figured out?
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Old 08-12-2015, 02:23 PM   #18
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Sorry! I pulled the camper this past weekend, and the hitch was nearly silent. I cleaned all the surfaces with brake cleaner, which stripped most of the paint off the moving surfaces. I then applied a light film of lithium grease at the pivot points on the hitch head and along the surface of the bars where they ride on the L bracket. I did not notice any sway, and like I said it was nearly silent.
While I was at the camp site, I flipped the brackets, but kept the height of the L brackets about the same since I didn't have the tools to add washers to the hitch head.
Now, Camping World has the camper for some repairs (our punch list) and as soon as I get it back, I will do some more adjusting to get the bars level with the tongue. I'm also going to get some dry lube for the hitch because I live on a dirt road, and the grease will likely do more harm than good.
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Old 08-12-2015, 04:10 PM   #19
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I have the Equalizer 10K and mine is completely silent. It also has the bracket jackets which I believe help a lot. My bars are completely parallel with the frame and I'm running 7 washers. Seems to be just about right.

Can the Equalizer bracket jackets be used on the Fastway E2? Now THAT is a noisy hitch and it looks like the brackets are very similar if not the same.
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Old 08-13-2015, 08:55 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by SkyBound View Post
I have the Equalizer 10K and mine is completely silent. It also has the bracket jackets which I believe help a lot. My bars are completely parallel with the frame and I'm running 7 washers. Seems to be just about right.

Can the Equalizer bracket jackets be used on the Fastway E2? Now THAT is a noisy hitch and it looks like the brackets are very similar if not the same.
I can tell you with certainty that the L-Brackets and bracket mounting hardware are completely interchangeable. I bent my spring bar hanger brackets and couldn't get them to stay straight (Fastway E2 10000/1000), so I emailed Progress Manufacturing to ensure I could use the Equalizer spring bar hardware with my Fastway hitch and spring bars and they said "no problem".

The brackets for the Equalizer are of a superior design because the L-brackets sit flush against the mounting plates whereas the stock E2 L-brackets sit off the mounting plates on the welded studs. So I figured if I'm just replacing bent brackets, why not upgrade some while I'm at it.

Eventually I'll make the jump and upgrade to the Equalizer E4, but it's just not in the cards right now, and it's less of an issue with the bigger truck.
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