Question about "level" while towing

[cantupshift]

I have a Jayco X23B, 3
2018 model on a non WDH.

I had put a 6 inch magnetic level below the a frame under the propane tanks, adjusted my hitch got it level.

Drove to the camp grounds unhooked, leveled the same way.

Went inside and floor seemed off. Put a 4 foot carpenter's level down inside where I could see it from the doorway and found I was about a whole bubble off.

So I go back out front and re level using the electric jack to the floor inside. Looked under the front of the trailer a frame made sure it was smooth, found I was a bubble off, almost as if the A frame in front is tilted upwards a bit.

So question for having the trailer level while towing which do I level to? The front A frame or the cabin floor just before the front wheels?

Is this an issue or is there some give with the trailers and this isn't unexpected? Do I need to talk to my dealer?

[BJR]

Originally Posted by cantupshift

So question for having the trailer level while towing which do I level to? The front A frame or the cabin floor just before the front wheels?

This part is easy - you want your living space and the fridge to be level. For your comfort and for the operation of the fridge.

The question about the A-Frame being tilted up seems like a weird one. I would find a flat surface and use a tape measure to make sure the frame is even from the ground in the very front (cabin floor area) and in the very rear of the living area. I'd then measure the frame at the a-frame and see if it was the same.

[jasum]

Originally Posted by cantupshift

I have a Jayco X23B, 3
2018 model on a non WDH.

I had put a 6 inch magnetic level below the a frame under the propane tanks, adjusted my hitch got it level.

Drove to the camp grounds unhooked, leveled the same way.

Went inside and floor seemed off. Put a 4 foot carpenter's level down inside where I could see it from the doorway and found I was about a whole bubble off.

So I go back out front and re level using the electric jack to the floor inside. Looked under the front of the trailer a frame made sure it was smooth, found I was a bubble off, almost as if the A frame in front is tilted upwards a bit.

So question for having the trailer level while towing which do I level to? The front A frame or the cabin floor just before the front wheels?

Is this an issue or is there some give with the trailers and this isn't unexpected? Do I need to talk to my dealer?

Go with Carpenter level inside trailer.................. And also you will never be 100% level when towing, which is not a problem.

[GrumpyDad]

I think a lot of trailers have a slightly curved frame by design. You want to level the living area, specifically your fridge and sink.

[rockaw]

You want it to be close to level. If you're nose up or down, that puts extra pressure on the low side axle, tires and springs, it's holding more weight, thus prone to more wear and forces. Say on a level trailer each tire is supporting 2,000 lbs, your trailer is elevated in the front, the front tires might now support 1,800 and the rear are now supporting 2,200.

[Ohiofinlander]

Page 43 of your manual discusses height of hitch. Our 2017 x23B is 23-1/2" to top of ball.

[bdreinv]

If its a Lippert frame your lucky if only off one bubble lol!

[Rustysocket]

Originally Posted by bdreinv

If its a Lippert frame your lucky if only off one bubble lol!

You should really get a hobby...

We get it. Your unhappy. Maybe it's time to move on?

[bdreinv]

Originally Posted by Rustysocket

You should really get a hobby...

We get it. Your unhappy. Maybe it's time to move on?

Never gonna happen 40 plus thousand and change for a camper! Some one needs to let future owners in on the other side of the two year Jayco warranty! And Lipperts crappy axles,seals and brakes.Had them all replaced on warranty!That's my story in my opinion. Thanks

[cantupshift]

Thanks folks, no multi quote so here goes.

Planning on pulling the manual out in the morning and getting a correct measurement. In the mean time will probably go with the current setup I've got unless it is way out of whack, and also check the cabin floor level.

I figure that will provide the least stress on the axel/tires.

When I get back I'll have to find a good level parking lot and take some measurements all the way around once "level", and work on my backing skills too.

[GrumpyDad]

Those stick-on levels are a real time saver too. Once you are in a site and level to your satisfaction, stick them on, and next time it's much easier to level everything for towing, camping etc. For the ten bucks cost, best money you can spend.

[cantupshift]

I have a set of those stick on levels that I bought but hadn't had the time to install before this trip.

Much like anything else wanted to read a bit to see if there were any tricks or surprises before I stick'em.

[ShawnR]

Originally Posted by cantupshift

I have a set of those stick on levels that I bought but hadn't had the time to install before this trip.

Much like anything else wanted to read a bit to see if there were any tricks or surprises before I stick'em.

Spend a couple days in the RV before you stick the levels on. If you’re not level enough the wife will let you know. If she’s quiet it’s safe to install.

To level for towing I measure ground to frame at the bumper and the hitch.

[GrumpyDad]

Originally Posted by cantupshift

I have a set of those stick on levels that I bought but hadn't had the time to install before this trip.

Much like anything else wanted to read a bit to see if there were any tricks or surprises before I stick'em.

the main "trick" is to make sure you are level to your (and your wife's) satisfaction before you stick them on.

For me, that means the kitchen sink needs to drain properly. I haven't found an exterior location where I can slap a carpenters level that tells me this properly, so I totally ignore the frame.

From what I can tell, the frames are slightly curved from the factory (on purpose or otherwise) so levelling to them is impossible.

Once you install the stick-on levels, just stop using anything else, it will save you a lot of heartburn and stress.

You know the old saying, a man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure.

My opinion is that "close" is "close enough" both for towing and for camping.

[rockaw]

I use a beer can, park the RV, lie a beer can on it's side and set it can sideways in the main compartment floor, which ever side it rolls to I elevate until it doesn't roll. Then I set it front and back, again I raise or lower the tongue jack until it doesn't move. I'm then level so I drink the beer because I don't need the can anymore and don't want to waste the beer before I throw the can out.
.

[GrumpyDad]

Originally Posted by rockaw

I use a beer can, park the RV, lie a beer can on it's side and set it can sideways in the main compartment floor, which ever side it rolls to I elevate until it doesn't roll. Then I set it front and back, again I raise or lower the tongue jack until it doesn't move. I'm then level so I drink the beer because I don't need the can anymore and don't want to waste the beer before I throw the can out.
.

that's genius, and just in case you really want to be prefect, you could try it again with a second can, and then a third, a fourth etc.

[Kookie]

"Level" as far as towing is concerned is relative to the ground measured at the front and the rear of the frame corners. Chances are you wont find a perfectly level piece of ground to check for level when hooked up so it wont be level according to a bubble level. As stated above, you want your trailer frame as close to parallel with the ground as possible to even out the load between the two axles when towing. A bubble level would be used to get the trailer level at a campsite during set up.

[ShawnR]

A trick I forgot: When you’re convinced you’re camped out level pull the slide(s) in before you attach the levels. Slides will be in when you park and that’s when you use the levels. I always had to park a half bubble high on the drivers side because the heavy slide was on that side.

[thenne1713]

Originally Posted by cantupshift

I have a Jayco X23B, 3
2018 model on a non WDH.

I had put a 6 inch magnetic level below the a frame under the propane tanks, adjusted my hitch got it level.

Drove to the camp grounds unhooked, leveled the same way.

Went inside and floor seemed off. Put a 4 foot carpenter's level down inside where I could see it from the doorway and found I was about a whole bubble off.

So I go back out front and re level using the electric jack to the floor inside. Looked under the front of the trailer a frame made sure it was smooth, found I was a bubble off, almost as if the A frame in front is tilted upwards a bit.

So question for having the trailer level while towing which do I level to? The front A frame or the cabin floor just before the front wheels?

Is this an issue or is there some give with the trailers and this isn't unexpected? Do I need to talk to my dealer?

You r mixing apples and oranges because u do not know if trailer axle is level w/ truck axle, re: ground slope. TOWING, you want front clearance same as back clearance. I.e. no drag on drives/ speed bumps; Living, you want skillet grease/ stove top/ oven cakes level

[thenne1713]

may also need weight distribution hitch to level tow vehicle and control tongue weight.