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Old 12-17-2015, 06:59 AM   #11
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BigJohnD, the reason for this set up is the inside width of the rambox bed. The pin box would hit the bed rails when turning otherwise. You could turn slightly, but I really don't want to have to gauge it that closely. I love the moreryde and wish they had a similar setup.

Yes, I'm pretty handy and am considering cutting the bottom edges off of the trailer receiver in order to raise the hitch a few more inches. Of course my worry is the integrity of the mount. I'm sure they have those turn out edges on there for a reason.

Thanks for any advice you might have.
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Old 12-17-2015, 07:05 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by gtsum2 View Post
Nice setup. I have b&w and the 19k sidewinder with my ram. I wish they made a 19k airborne
Thanks... Do you have any pics of your set up? Does it seem like the nose of the rv is too high?
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Old 12-17-2015, 07:17 AM   #13
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No pics but I have the b&w on lowest setting and mounted as far forward (towards cab) as it can go. I have 3300 (less if rzr is in garage) on the pin and I have 7-8 inches bed rail clearance. Nose of toy hauler is maybe an inch or so high, but it's pretty close. This is with a 2014 3500srw ram
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Old 12-17-2015, 07:19 AM   #14
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I don't have ram box either but can understand your concern with the Mir ryde box hitting it. I had to give up my morbryde box as I have 6'4" bed
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Old 12-17-2015, 08:29 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Tgallagher View Post

Oh, the hitch assembly calls for white lithium grease to be applied on the slip plates. I used normal bearing grease. The hitch is really tight at the pivot point. I guess maybe the normal grease is too thick?
While I don't quite have the same model, check the instructions for the Sidewinder. They advise NOT to grease the the plates, only the back side of the pin. Also, wedge adjustment is a bit finicky on these. You want it tight - any slop will start to wear the wedge during travel. But, it is possible to get it so tight you start to run into issues with easy release when unhitching.
BTW, although I have not heard of any failure, B&W warns against using a Sidewinder with their hitches.....
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Old 12-17-2015, 09:06 AM   #16
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While I don't quite have the same model, check the instructions for the Sidewinder. They advise NOT to grease the the plates, only the back side of the pin. Also, wedge adjustment is a bit finicky on these. You want it tight - any slop will start to wear the wedge during travel. But, it is possible to get it so tight you start to run into issues with easy release when unhitching.
BTW, although I have not heard of any failure, B&W warns against using a Sidewinder with their hitches.....

agree on the no grease. B&W states to NOT use the sidewinder with a companion turnover ball hitch...you CAN use it with the B&W Puck hitch for ram and ford factory 5th wheel prep packages as the hitch is mounted directly to the frame via 4 pucks vs being held down via a turnover ball. I verified this directly with B&W..I think they have it on their website now also
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Old 12-17-2015, 12:49 PM   #17
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Yeah, I've seen that. I have read where several people are using the companion and the sidewinder together. I am going to try it around our place and see what happens. If I don't feel comfy then I will change it up. I'm never doing major turns anyways. I had a megacab that use to use to tow my fifth wheel without any issues.

Thanks for the info on the grease. I'm gonna have to clean it all off and try again.
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Old 12-17-2015, 07:17 PM   #18
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Well, I removed the hitch. Cleaned off all of the grease, no luck. Once I torque the bolts down to the proper torque, it won't pivot. This really worries me. If it's that tight, then I'm not sure any hitch will withstand the torque of turning.
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Old 12-17-2015, 07:20 PM   #19
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Gtsum2. Will yours pivot by hand when unhooked? I'm rocking the whole trailer trying to get it to move.

Also, I went to air up the air bag suspension and it wouldn't take any air. After further investigation, the valve stem wasn't sticking out far enough to trip the air nozzle. I removed the valve stem and found the hole that was drilled is right next to part of the frame and the valve stem is catching on that frame and not fully seating into the hole. I drilled the hole out 4 sizes larger and BOOM. She works now.
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Old 12-17-2015, 07:23 PM   #20
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The four bolts on my sidewinder call for 45ft lbs of torque. Anymore and Reese said it would affect the turning. I really have to wack the pin hard to get it to move by hand (hard enough I only tried it a couple times after properly torquing the bolts). Need to watch those bolts too as mine loosened up after 500-750 miles or so...like finger loose...put blue loctite on them and torque to proper specs and good to go last 2500 miles or so
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