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Old 09-12-2015, 12:28 PM   #1
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Reese Dual Cam Set Up

So, I spent the morning getting the WDH set up. This is what I have so far. It is just a tad nose high, but the trailer is empty. I'm slowly building up supplies, so as more stuff goes in the trailer, I think it will level it perfectly. I will be installing the cams tomorrow. I just wanted to get the weight distribution done first. Once the cams are installed, the chains should hang perfectly straight, as the brackets that the chains bolt to that mount on the cams will cause the chains to angle back about an inch and a half, which by my estimate should put them dead straight from where they are now.

Those of you who know how to set up a WDH, can you tell me if I'm looking good so far? This is my first time doing it. Thanks!
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Old 09-12-2015, 12:41 PM   #2
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I'm no expert, but I have the same Reese DC setup and have been tweaking it myself lately. I think your ball angle is spot on which is oftentimes a moving target (at least for me). I would suggest moving your chain brackets back towards the trailer just a bit so that they are straight up and down. Thankfully, this is only a set screw adjustment and doesn't require drilling. As it sits now, it appears that the chains are reaching back towards the truck a good little bit in the photo. I'm sure smarter people than myself with chime in soon enough.
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Old 09-12-2015, 12:50 PM   #3
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SparkDr - Yes, the chains are at a slight angle, but as I mentioned in my OP, I'm installing the cams tomorrow, and the position of the cams and mounts should have the chains hanging dead straight. if they do not hand straight after I put the cams on, then I will adjust accordingly.

I felt like I was chasing my tail a little bit doing this....ball angle, wheel wheel measurements, ball height, trailer level, blah, blah, blah! A lot of second guessing and double checking for sure.
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Old 09-12-2015, 02:28 PM   #4
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You will appreciate the cam sway control. Find a nice big parking lot to do some S-turns, get them close, and leave them a bit loose to set them up. They'll settle right into place and then you can snug them down right then and there. My WD was not setup properly by the dealer but the sway performed flawlessly nonetheless. I think those smaller trails sway more than the big boys.
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Old 09-12-2015, 04:37 PM   #5
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snip........Those of you who know how to set up a WDH, can you tell me if I'm looking good so far? This is my first time doing it. Thanks!
OC Dan,

The WDH in the pics look good this far, and you will like the performance of the Dual Cam once it's dialed-in.

I also have the Reese Dual Cam (almost 10 years) with my 'heavy' TV/TT combo and it's worked just fine.

Just a couple pointers on a WDH with the Reese Dual Cam:

* Since the snap-up chain doesn't move during TV turns, if the engaged chain hangs at a slight angle that won't be a problem.

* The snap-up bracket lag-bolt should only be tightened approx. 1/2 turn, over tightening may cause the bracket to bend over the top of the A-frame.

* There are a couple versions of the Reese Dual Cam, pay close attention to the mounting orientation (noted in installation instructions) of the chain bracket when placed on the cam end...., incorrect orientation will place an outward force on the snap-up bracket.

* To save spring bar and cam surface wear, install the same spring bar over the cam surface each time you hitch up (I attached a zip-tie to my driver's side spring bar).

Bob
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Old 09-12-2015, 05:16 PM   #6
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Dan,

Overall your set up looks good so far from the pics! Once you are completely loaded I would suggest stopping at a CAT Scale to verify your set up.

Weigh three times total.
1: Truck & trailer ready to roll down the road- wd bars latched up.
2: Truck & trailer, but with the wd bars unlatched, in the bed of the truck.
3: Truck only- leave the hitch in the receiver, bars in the bed of the truck.

Report back with your numbers and we can decipher them. Depending on you owners manual, you want to restore between 50-100% of the weight loast of the trucks front axle when you first hook the trailer up (no wd bars).

As Bob posted, I also put 2 zip ties (in case one breaks) on one of my bars, red zip ties for right side (passenger).
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Old 09-12-2015, 10:00 PM   #7
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Thank you for the feed back. This isn't totally over complicated, but being my first time I want to make sure things are looking as they should. I have read the instruction manual about 10 times and watched several videos all in an effort to get this done, and done right. The closest CAT scales are about an hour from me. I might get up early one Saturday and make a half day affair out of it once I get my "final" set up dialed in so I can verify weight transfer is as should be.

Rustic E - What orientation are you referring to with respect to the chain bracket? I have the latest version cams with black yokes. The chain brackets are straight, and look like you could mount them either way since they look like they're stamped steel with no bends.

Thank you guys again, I really appreciate the responses!
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Old 09-13-2015, 06:30 AM   #8
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Do you guys plan on taking a trip anytime soon? Ideally it is best if you are going to weigh your rig is to have it loaded just like it is when taking a trip. Maybe you guys could take a trip in the direction of the CAT Scale? Two birds with one trip! Lol Hit the scales, then go camping!!!

I have adjusted our DC system a couple times just trying to make sure it is dead nutz on!!! This is the first "new style" DC I have used. I had the OLD u-bolt system before. One thing I have noticed is the cam has a little play so it "twists" a little when hooked up. I know the bar will wear into it, but not a perfect match yet.

Good luck!!!
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Old 09-13-2015, 05:58 PM   #9
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snip..... What orientation are you referring to with respect to the chain bracket?.......snip
OC Dan,

If you have the "flat" (no bend) chain brackets the U-bolt threads should face "outward".



The chain brackets with the "bend" the U-bolts (and "bend") should face inward.



Below is my Reese Dual Cam set-up with a 1,300lb loaded tongue weight, w/1,500lb spring bars (I incorporated the new version Reese Ball Mount since the pic was taken). Since your TT coupler is welded to the top of the A-frame, your final adjustments may look a little different.



Bob
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Old 10-04-2015, 10:29 AM   #10
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OC Dan,

Just curious, how did your Reese HP Dual Cam installation go?

If you get a chance, post some pics of your installation and any tips......, may be helpful to those considering the same up-grade.

Bob
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Old 10-05-2015, 08:50 PM   #11
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Going to finish this weekend. Had to order an 11/16" drill bit. No one carries that size it seems. Just need to put the cams on the trailer, locate the saddles and I'll be ready to roll.

I have the neighborhood Dad's and kids coming over for a driveway slumber party this weekend. 5 kids total aged 4 and under. (my boy is 3)...the Mom's are going to love us for this idea!
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Old 10-12-2015, 01:20 PM   #12
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Just a little update - I finished the install yesterday. It did not goes as simple as I had hoped. It was nearly 100 degrees, and either I wasn't thinking clearly, or it was just bad luck, but...when I was putting the cams and mounting brackets on the bottom of the frame rails, I drilled the passenger side first, got the bracket all set. Went to the driver's side, only to realize that the emergency break away switch was right in the way of the cam mount for that side. This was as easy as switching the mount orientation, the problem (if you want to call it that) is that I had already drilled the passenger side. So, I have 2 extra holes on the passenger side now! And they are ugly since the holes are 11/16" in diameter. Trying to think of a way to use body filler and paint it over....yes, it bothers me that bad!

Then, as I was drilling out the drivers side the rear most hole walked down about 1/8" of an inch while I was drilling. Again, it is a beast of a hole to drill, and the frame wall was much thicker than I anticipated. In any event, there is a small gap at the rear of the drivers side bracket between it and the frame. Not noticeable to anyone but me, but I like things done perfectly, so again, it is eating me up that the bit walked down a little on me.

Factor in the heat, and I was one sweaty, p.o.'d hombre!

In any event, I got the brackets installed and torqued to spec. Took it on a test drive, seemed fine. I had towed with just the trunion bars and chains prior to installing the cams, and to be honest it didn't feel any different. In fairness, there was no wind or passing big rigs, so maybe that is where it shines. I'm going to have the DW drive it around the block a few times next weekend while I sit in the bed of the truck just to verify that the cams/trunion bars are locking/unlocking as intended.

Lastly, I didn't realize that this entire hitch was manufactured in China. Comparing this hitch to others, I feel it is a bit overpriced for what it is, especially when you consider where it is made. That is just my opinion. I know that this particular hitch has a large fan base, so I'll chalk it up as the price to pay to play.

I learned a lot installing this, so if anyone has any questions feel free to ask. I can say that although the cam mounts gave me a harder time than I had hoped, the rest of the hitch install went smoothly, and I have no clearance issues that limit the trunion bars due to early cam contact that other's have experienced.
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Old 10-12-2015, 01:32 PM   #13
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I drilled two of the holes wrong while installing my dual cam hitch. I just used black rtv silicone on the holes that were wrong. Unless you are really looking you wont see them.
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Old 10-12-2015, 01:58 PM   #14
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I'll give that a try. I have some at the house. Any suggestions on how to move a drill hole up 1/8"?
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Old 10-12-2015, 02:31 PM   #15
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Nice setup.
Most WDH's are made in China except for a few high end are made in the USA.
The brake away switch could have been moved a bit forward to.
1/8" is not that much noticeable on the operation. RTV black does wonders
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Old 10-12-2015, 03:29 PM   #16
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I considered moving the switch, however, the wires connected to it were at their limits, so I would have had to splice in a longer piece of wire. I also like the idea of the switch being behind the trunions/cams just in case any weird articulation wouldn't give it a whack.

Either way, its on there now, so I'll just RTV it, and in the future check both sides prior to drilling. And to think I rechecked my measurements a dozen times prior to drilling those first holes....irony!
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Old 10-12-2015, 06:56 PM   #17
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Good to hear the Dual Cam mounting project is behind you....., and yes, you will know the Dual Cams are working when dealing with cross winds and other less then ideal towing conditions.

I recall having to move my e-brake switch, but actually worked out better for routing the cable in my case.

Oh, periodically check the torque on the (4) thread forming screws....., after about 7 years one of my thread forming screws didn't want to stay torqued, so I replaced all four with grade-8 bolts/nuts thru the A-frame (worked great). I attribute my issue to my heavy tongue weight (1,300lbs).

Bob
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Old 10-13-2015, 09:36 PM   #18
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Quote:
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So, I spent the morning getting the WDH set up. This is what I have so far. It is just a tad nose high, but the trailer is empty. I'm slowly building up supplies, so as more stuff goes in the trailer, I think it will level it perfectly. I will be installing the cams tomorrow. I just wanted to get the weight distribution done first. Once the cams are installed, the chains should hang perfectly straight, as the brackets that the chains bolt to that mount on the cams will cause the chains to angle back about an inch and a half, which by my estimate should put them dead straight from where they are now.

Those of you who know how to set up a WDH, can you tell me if I'm looking good so far? This is my first time doing it. Thanks!
OCDAN,
from your write up and pictures, Your truck profile looks fine, but I think your ball height is a bit too high. Unfortunately, it looks like the hitch head it at the bottom hole in your drop shank.

The ball height on you truck should be 1 to 1-1/2" higher than the coupler height on a level trailer.

Measure and record truck height on all rour corners of your truck.

hook up trailer.

Add tension to the WD bars to restore truck height to un-hitched height (within 3/4 of an inch).

Now check if you WD bars are parallel to the trailer tongue and the ground. If not, then unhook and adjust the hitch head angle.

hook up trailer again, add WD bar tension and remeasure truck corners.

NOW YOU CAN ADD DUAL CAM set up. This is how I did it

add cam brackets and chain hardware and you did.
insert cam in turnbuckle and keep both nuts loose.
apply good coat of grease on cam and cam threads. Hook up WD bars,
take a mallet or 2x4 and tap the cams to ensure they are all the way in the WD bar groove. BTW, your snap up bracket should be vertical from your cam.

drive your truck/trailer forward and backward through a few tight turns to ensure the cams have settled in the WD bars. Finish this maneuver with the truck/trailer is a STRAIGHT LINE.

Now tighten the two large nuts on each of the cams.
unhook the WD bars and wipe off all the grease.

My truck is 3/8" higher in the front 3/4" lower in the back when hooked up. my truck and trailer are both level, I experience no sway at all, and the steering is solid.

I tried to adjust the WD bars to try and return the truck to unhitched heights. I ended up bending one of the cam bars and destroying a snap up bracket. TOO much tension.

Hookup/unhitch has been pretty simple too.
latch the coupler to the ball, then raise truck/trailer with the tongue jack until the jack just starts to lift the truck. Then hook up WD bars. Very little effort is required to get the bars and snap up chains in place. raise your tongue jack and and off you go.

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