Should dealer demo WDH install?

[bearcat77]

I just brought home a new Jayflight 27BHS (and started a new thread on broken coupler). I have never towed anything in my life before. The dealer gave us a demo where we covered everything on the camper in about 90 minutes. However, they did the hitch (Equalizer 4 point sway control) setup while we were signing all the financial paperwork. When we came back out, we got a quick 10 minute, this how you hook up the trailer run through. Then they handed me the keys, told me to hit the trailer brake controller to make sure it worked, and sent me on my way. The more I think about it, and read in forums like this, the more woefully unprepared I feel. I know nothing about how to adjust the WDH after I load the trailer. I don't even know if I have 1k or 1.2k bars. I don't know what's normal movement and what is "sway". I read other people do a walk around their setup every time they stop. I don't know what to look for, or know what I'm supposed to feel when something starts to go wrong. Should the dealer have shown me more? Or is this just something you are supposed to pick up as you go? Am I worrying too much about endangering myself or others if the setup isn't "perfect"? And finally, is there anywhere I can go to get hands on practical experience? I printed out the 13 page "travel trailer hitch setup" thread, but I would absorb so much more if someone could just run through the process with me once or twice. Thanks for any advice.


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[Edd505]

Ask the dealer to explain/show you how to hook up and setup the hitch. Do you know anyone that has a TT that can show you?
Straight towing is pretty simple just start and stop slow, keep speed down, keep lots of room behind other vehicles it takes some room to stop. As you get the feel for it you will become easier. Watch corners! Your TT will not follow the same track the TV does. Find a large empty lot, preferably with painted parking spaces & practice backing. There is no better teacher than experience.

[ttavasc]

Having gone through the process of purchasing our first TT almost 2 years ago I understand your apprehension. Although I had towed small utility trailers for a number of years the TT was a more complex set up and i just wasn't sure what to expect. This is a great forum for folks like us because there are so many knowledgable and helpful folks willing to answer questions and impart their accumulated wisdom and experience. I have learned a great deal by searching for topics of interest and asking questions that I didn't find answers to.

My approach to this was to break it down into smaller pieces and learn enough about each piece that I was comfortable I understood the basic principles and guide lines. For example, understanding the weight ratings systems for the tow vehicle and the trailer including what each of the values listed on the loading stickers means and what actions can affect those values. Where I still had questions I did some searching on the forum and if I didn't come up with anything then I'd ask.

I tend to be somewhat methodical so I started at the "front" of the setup and worked my way back - meaning I started with understanding the capabilities of my tow vehicle first and then moved on to the trailer. Once I felt like I understood the basics of their weights and capabilities then I moved on to how to hook the two together - i.e. the WDH.

There are lots of resources available - I came across a "How To Tow a Trailer" guide that while about 10 years old at the time had some pretty good explanations of a lot of the topics I was looking at. Most of the hitch manufacturers provide online resources including videos on their products detailing how they work and how to install them.

It is a lot to absorb at first, but as you get into it you'll see more and more things start to make sense and you'll get the hang of it. Once you do then your set to get out and have some fun.

[Dondeb]

Absolutely, the dealer should have spent more time with you on the WDH but you should have received an instruction manual that has lots of good info. Also the Equalizer website has several YouTube videos that would give you lots of great insight. The weight limit of your hitch is listed on the label on the sway bar. Hope this helps a little.

[Edd505]

ttavasc & Dondeb are right, Youtube can be your friend on how to's

[Gman1372]

When it come to feeling comfortable with your set up and feeling safe, your not overthinking it. The amount of time a dealer spends going over details of your purchase can vary. If your not comfortable with how the system works don't be afraid to go back with the trailer. You could call before however just showing up my years better results. Go inside and politely ask for a tech to go over the details again. This forum is a great source of information, so is YouTube as others said but nothing beats a personal explanation.

[Desert RVers]

Welcome to the forum and congrats on the new Jayco. As the others have said, youtube is a great source for trailering and hitch videos.

[FeatherFam]

Welcome to Jayco and trailering!

The best understanding I can offer is be your own best resource - Be resourceful. Trailers like all vehicles have taught us this. Dealers should be reliable and worthy, but they are infamously poor at what they "should be" in may ways, hitching being one of them. Everyone finds their way. We have learned the frustrating, disappointing, and expensive way to stay away from dealers unless it is absolutely necessary (major repairs). In most cases, we have learned to do a way better job on all of our vehicles than a dealer and most repair shops.

The folks at Progress Manufacturing (maker of the Equalizer products) are outstanding for technical help. They walked us through several WDH install and adjustment procedures; they taught us a lot and were very patient and intelligent helpers. With both of our trailer purchases, the dealers were totally lame with our demo, information accuracy (trailer and accessories), and they goobered our WDH both times. We learned to learn for ourselves and maintain a "can-do" mindset, especially with an RV. Either that or you need a big wallet to pay for things and stand over the work to be sure it is done right. Even then, you need to know what "done right" looks like. So learn and apply yourself to the knowledge that you gain. Make learning about your unit, maintaining it, and improving it a significant part of your enjoyment and responsibility of ownership. This forum and others are a wealth of friendly help and experience. Keep us posted and happy camping!

[Marcm157]

Not to further complicate things for you as I know how overwhelmed you are feeling right now but I can almost guarantee that your hitch will need some adjusting as dealers install with an empty trailer and nothing in your tow vehicle. I have a lot of experience towing but this was my first travel trailer. Weight distribution is extremely important. I'm not sure what you are towing with but it took me several attempts to get my equalizer hitch dialed in correctly. I took our first trip with the hitch set from the dealer and had nothing but trouble.

The process to adjust is pretty straight forward and is explained well in the owners manual. But do plan on loading up your tow vehicle and trailer as close as possible to how you will be when camping.

I owned a 10K Equalizer from a previous trailer and my TT fell within the limits of it but I just couldn't get it dialed in. I upgraded to a 12K model and it made all the difference in the world.

If you would like, send me a PM and I will give you my contact info. I'd be happy to talk you through setting up the hitch correctly. Much easier than trying to type it all out...

[bearcat77]

Originally Posted by Marcm157

Not to further complicate things for you as I know how overwhelmed you are feeling right now but I can almost guarantee that your hitch will need some adjusting as dealers install with an empty trailer and nothing in your tow vehicle. I have a lot of experience towing but this was my first travel trailer. Weight distribution is extremely important. I'm not sure what you are towing with but it took me several attempts to get my equalizer hitch dialed in correctly. I took our first trip with the hitch set from the dealer and had nothing but trouble.

The process to adjust is pretty straight forward and is explained well in the owners manual. But do plan on loading up your tow vehicle and trailer as close as possible to how you will be when camping.

I owned a 10K Equalizer from a previous trailer and my TT fell within the limits of it but I just couldn't get it dialed in. I upgraded to a 12K model and it made all the difference in the world.

If you would like, send me a PM and I will give you my contact info. I'd be happy to talk you through setting up the hitch correctly. Much easier than trying to type it all out...

Thank you. I will keep you in mind. I will get on Equalizer's website and watch their videos. I tried to get the dealer's service person to go into more detail about setting up the Equalizer, but all he would say is that if I had any problems with sway, I should raise the brackets one hole, and that should take care of it. But, he said he is confident I will never need to touch it. I'm towing a 27BHS, with 2500 Sierra, using the 4 point Equalizer. He said that's plenty of truck and plenty of hitch for that size trailer. He also said there is no reason to increase to the 12k bars. I don't completely believe all of that, but we'll see.

I guess first we need to acquire all of our equipment and supplies, and estimate food and drinks, so we can see what a fully loaded trailer will be for us. Then I'll go to some scales to get official weights. If the tongue weight is between 10-15%, and all axle weights are within limits, then we are good to go right?

Thanks.


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[Marcm157]

Originally Posted by bearcat77

.

I guess first we need to acquire all of our equipment and supplies, and estimate food and drinks, so we can see what a fully loaded trailer will be for us. Then I'll go to some scales to get official weights. If the tongue weight is between 10-15%, and all axle weights are within limits, then we are good to go right?

That's a majority of it yes but not all. Make sure you research how to go through the CAT Scales. You need 3 passes through to get all the info needed to make sure all is good.

Also, keep in mind that you can not swap out just the bars on the Equalizer. The 10k - 12k hitch heads are different and the bars are not interchangeable. So if you do need to jump up, you will need to replace the head as well.

[bansai]

I have the same camper and the same hitch Bearcat. When you run into new questions, please feel free to PM if you want, although with all the cool people here obviously starting a new thread is always a good option, I may be able to save you some frustration in some areas.


To echo what some others are saying, youtube really has a TON of videos on that hitch. You'll be a pro in no time.

[bearcat77]

Originally Posted by bansai

I have the same camper and the same hitch Bearcat. When you run into new questions, please feel free to PM if you want, although with all the cool people here obviously starting a new thread is always a good option, I may be able to save you some frustration in some areas.


To echo what some others are saying, youtube really has a TON of videos on that hitch. You'll be a pro in no time.

Thank you Bansai. Since you have the same camper, any specific words of advice? I'm starting to work on my shopping list. Tools, ladder, fuses, storage containers, etc. Any handy little tricks or gadgets you stumbled upon?


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[bansai]

Originally Posted by bearcat77

Thank you Bansai. Since you have the same camper, any specific words of advice? I'm starting to work on my shopping list. Tools, ladder, fuses, storage containers, etc. Any handy little tricks or gadgets you stumbled upon?


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There are a few mandatory items, you may have picked up some of them already... just off the top of my head, you'll want:

• Sewer Hose w/ connectors
• RV water hose.. I have 2. one is 25 foot long, and I use this one the most. The other is 50 foot and is for camping spots where water isn't right at the pedestal..
• Not mandatory - but I reccomend a screw on water filter for your hose.. they are blue, last about a year.
• Pressure reducer. Camco sells a brass pressure reducing 'valve' that you will want to use when you are hooked up to water. Some campgrounds have dangrously high water pressure that will blow your plumbing system. It's like a 5 dollar item and you won't have to worry about it.
• Dog bone adapters - You'll want a power adapter that allows you to plug your 30 amp camper into the kind of power socket you have at home. You will not want to run your AC while plugged in to 15 amp service or a ton of other high wattage devices, but this is required if you want to charge your camper at home. I also reccommend the 50 to 30 amp dog bone adapter so you can plug into a 50 amp outlet if thats a)all that's available or b) the 30 amp plug at your camp ground is messed up.
• EMS (electrical management system) these are kind of pricey, but some camp grounds have faulty power. This protects your electrical system. At a minimum, you'll want a line tester that plugs into the power pedestal that tells you if the pedistal is grounded properly, and providing the proper volts / etc.
• Leveling blocks ( a lot of them ) - these campers sit pretty high when level. I take a 2 foot stack of wood ( 8x8 posts cut about 18 inches long) and I drop my camper on this instead of on the ground. It prevents you from needing to use your jack as much, but even more important - when you are struggling with your hitch it gives you the extra height you sometimes need to couple / decouple. You've probably already learned how useful this can be based on your hitch issues earlier.
• Plastic crates from home depot or wherever to help you organize that large pass through storage area you have - I have a seperate small one to hold all of the 'sewer related stuff... gloves! for that etc...
• One more sewer related item - replace the hard plastic bumper caps that came with your camper (sewer hose storage) with locking ones. You can find them on amazon. Some people also drill a small hole through the bumper, into the cap and then lock it down with a pin or something.. You don't want to lose your hose on the road. I almost lost mine my first trip out.

There is a LOT more but that should get you started. There are some other things that I've found very helpful in the kitchen.. expandable bars... like a mini- shower curtain rod.. to keep the stuff in your cabinets and fridge from flying all over the place.. One other tip - the hot water bypass valves for this camper are under the bottom bunk behind a panel you have to unscrew. It's a pain to get to, but knowing where that is at least helps.

Last comment before I have to go shovel snow - the sliding door that closes off the main bedroom is secured with a nylon strap that is just stapled in place - that strap ripped out during one of our last trips, you may want to figure out how to secure that door better before it comes loose, also take a look at the screw that holds your antenna crank on.. that was loose on mine and the whole assembly came apart on one of our trips... no biggie to re-install it, I used locktite on mine.

You can find everything on Amazon, usually a lot cheaper than at camping world, etc..

[Rustysocket]

Relax...

While the proper setup of a WDH is beneficial and can make or break your towing experience my personal opinion is that way too much thought/stress is being put into it these days.

Before the internet, we hooked up our trailer and towed it... if it didn't feel right we moved things around in the trailer to change the loading.

Personally, I think the fine tuning of a WDH is outside the scope of what most dealers are going to go into during a PDI. They will show you how to hook up and unhook, but in regards to setting it up... it can't really be done until it's loaded and you have weights from a scale anyway.

I'm not telling you not to worry about it and certainly take the time to learn and understand how your setup works, but if it tows ok and doesn't do anything crazy it's likely not worth bothering with.

[Rustysocket]

Since you said you are new to towing...

The three biggest pieces of advice I will offer:

1. When cornering, your trailer wheels will always track inside your tow vehicle so remember to not cut sharp corners and watch in your mirrors.

2. Your likely not used to pulling something this high, so before you pull into a gas station or other places remember to check your overhead clearances.

3. When backing the trailer, if you put your hand at the six oclock position on the bottom of the steering wheel, the rear of the trailer will move in the direction you move your hand.

[Screwby]

I'll take it a step further. It's negligent and dangerous for a dealer to not explain hookup and disconnect as well as show how to adjust a WDH to a new buyer. They hooked ours up while we signed papers. The service department closed before we were done with the the salesman. He handed me my keys and pointed to my rig and shook my hand. I never thought twice about it as I'd hauled many trailers over the years. But, I'd never seen nor used a WDH in my life. After getting home and realizing this was a totally different creature I proceeded to attempt getting this thing off my TV. Needless to say it was a learning experience and nearly cost me a broken ankle as I disconnected a 10,000 bar without "unloading the weight. I had no idea the force these thing held and you can't feel the torque until it's too late on the chain type.
I googled the process after I caught my breath and calmed my nerves. That next weekend camping I watched a guy proceed to do the exact same thing before I could stop him. As he stared at his leverage pipe embedded in the dirt I walked over and helped him before someone went to the E.R.

[RPreeb]

Originally Posted by Rustysocket

Relax...

While the proper setup of a WDH is beneficial and can make or break your towing experience my personal opinion is that way too much thought/stress is being put into it these days.

Before the internet, we hooked up our trailer and towed it... if it didn't feel right we moved things around in the trailer to change the loading.

Personally, I think the fine tuning of a WDH is outside the scope of what most dealers are going to go into during a PDI. They will show you how to hook up and unhook, but in regards to setting it up... it can't really be done until it's loaded and you have weights from a scale anyway.

I'm not telling you not to worry about it and certainly take the time to learn and understand how your setup works, but if it tows ok and doesn't do anything crazy it's likely not worth bothering with.

Our dealer never even tried to sell us a WDH - the subject was never mentioned. Poor salesmanship? Or he figured that the truck was adequate for what it would be hauling? Don't know. I decided to tow it home without and see how that went. 150 miles in a 20-25 MPH crosswind, no issues. I'm still on the fence about it. The truck and trailer are both perfectly level when hitched up.

I'm buying other things as I see the need, but so far haven't jumped on the WDH. It's on my wish list at Amazon, but I'm going to take a trip or 2 next spring before I make a final decision. My TT's gross weight is about half my truck's towing capacity, and so far it has handled the load easily.

I upgraded from a popup to eliminate a lot of the hassle of setting up and tearing down, so the fewer steps I have to go through when hitching, the happier I'll be. However, I'm not going to do anything that I feel is unsafe, so that's why I'm going to try a couple of 2 night runs and take a wait and see approach on this.

[Lolead]

a bit of advice someone gave me years ago has been very helpful to me while towing our various trailers. When turning a corner do NOT turn the steering wheel of your tow vehicle until the rear wheels of your tow vehicle have cleared the corner. Perhaps someone can explain this better than I but, it has helped me a lot.

[fsrmike]

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...D53C&FORM=VIRE