Sway bars

[Julie&MarksJayco]

We drove 3.5 hrs home with our new Jayco 145rb w/o any problems .I maintained an average speed of 65 mph and I didn’t notice any swaying.I pull it with a F-150 8 ft bed and a 5.0 .My question is would you still install a anti swaying device or leave it alone?Thanks

[Jagiven]

Welcome aboard!

I would not consider towing a large box without sway control.

Once you get the TT and TV loaded up for a trip, good chance it will tow differently. With my configuration, the only time I have ever really noticed any sway, is with strong headwind. Crosswind, does not affect me at all. Many people state the opposite. You just never know what you are going to run into and when. Better being safe than a statistic.

[DocBrown]

Sway control is one of those things you'll hear people say "if it's loaded right you don't need it", or "I've been towing without it for years and no problems".

You don't need it until you need it. It's cheap insurance. Although you are not supposed to use a friction sway control bar in the rain, I've always just left it on.

One time we were coming back from a trip with our previous 17ft hybrid and only 20 miles from home. We hit a slick spot in pouring rain. I was only doing about 45 mph. The back wheels of my truck slid sideways and caused the trailer to sway violently. I almost lost it. That was the longest 10 seconds of my life. I had to pull over for 10 minutes after. My wife had no idea what was happening and didn't understand why I pulled over. I shudder to think what would have happened without the sway bar.

That is the only time in 26 years that I have ever experienced sway.

[Midnightmoon]

There are many good options on the market right now for weight distributing hitches with integrated sway control, Andersen, Equalizer, and many others. If you are going to make the investment, I recommend taking a look at one of those.

[RogerR]

Andersen WDH is a real good fit and has effortless sway control built in. Easiest on and off, low weight and a reasonable price, good customer service. Also, none of those pesky bars that weigh a ton to attach.

[Julie&MarksJayco]

Originally Posted by Midnightmoon

There are many good options on the market right now for weight distributing hitches with integrated sway control, Andersen, Equalizer, and many others. If you are going to make the investment, I recommend taking a look at one of those.

Thanks for info.So I watched the Anderson installation video.When I unhook at campground will I have to back off the nut that tightens the chains before I can unhook truck?Which means I’ll have to carry a ratchet and socket ?Thanks

[Midnightmoon]

Originally Posted by Julie&MarksJayco

Thanks for info.So I watched the Anderson installation video.When I unhook at campground will I have to back off the nut that tightens the chains before I can unhook truck?Which means I’ll have to carry a ratchet and socket ?Thanks

The socket comes with the kit and I do carry a ratchet just in case I need it. Depending on what your actual tension adjustment is, you may be able to hook and unhook just using your tongue jack to take the tension off of the chain. A couple blocks under my tongue jack and I can lift mine high enough to hook/unhook without having to loosen the tension nuts every time if I want to.

[RogerR]

No, well maybe you want more than that. I park and block my 195RB on an Andersen leveler. Then I put a block under my power tongue jack. While still hitched and raise the tongue up and the chains go slack. I pull the pin out of the triangle plate and drop it off the bottom of the hitch. I then raise or lower the jack until I can take the Rv off the hitch ball. Move car and raise or lower to near level.
To hitch up I back up under the hitch, lower the trailer onto the ball till I can latch it. If there is enough slack in the chain I attach the triangle plate and I am done. If necessary I raise the car/rv together to get slack in the chains and put on the triangle plate.

Hope this is not to confusing.

[Julie&MarksJayco]

Originally Posted by RogerR

No, well maybe you want more than that. I park and block my 195RB on an Andersen leveler. Then I put a block under my power tongue jack. While still hitched and raise the tongue up and the chains go slack. I pull the pin out of the triangle plate and drop it off the bottom of the hitch. I then raise or lower the jack until I can take the Rv off the hitch ball. Move car and raise or lower to near level.
To hitch up I back up under the hitch, lower the trailer onto the ball till I can latch it. If there is enough slack in the chain I attach the triangle plate and I am done. If necessary I raise the car/rv together to get slack in the chains and put on the triangle plate.

Hope this is not to confusing.

Oh no awesome steps for my question.But I do have 1 more ?Lmao.If I get the Anderson hitch will I also need a friction shock?Or will that be enough?THANK YOU ALL

[Midnightmoon]

No, the sway control on the Andersen in incorporated in to the hitch itself. You don't need to add anything else.

[RogerR]

X2 on friction is included. Under the hitch ball is cone shaped friction material similar to brake material. The weight of the trailer pushes the ball down into this cone. If you start a sway event this causes friction and helps keep the trailer from oscillating back and forth. The heavier the trailer tongue weight the more friction. Doesn't seem to be a problem when turning corners.

[Seann45]

When the manure hits the fan is when you will need the sway control. The question to ask is how much is your life worth and that of your family...

[DocBrown]

Originally Posted by Seann45

When the manure hits the fan is when you will need the sway control. The question to ask is how much is your life worth and that of your family...

X2!

[TaftCoach]

I like my weight distribution hitch with the solid bar. Like the chains, I can raise mine high enough to take off the bars without any effort.

[Iamdrdream]

Originally Posted by TaftCoach

I like my weight distribution hitch with the solid bar. Like the chains, I can raise mine high enough to take off the bars without any effort.

X2!

[Smoky]

Originally Posted by Midnightmoon

No, the sway control on the Andersen in incorporated in to the hitch itself. You don't need to add anything else.

I'm shopping for a WDH right now. I have a X17H and a 2015 4Runner. I'm down to two choices: Andersen 3324 or a 6K TN Fastway e2 2-point. Do you prefer Andersen over all others?

[Midnightmoon]

Originally Posted by Smoky

I'm shopping for a WDH right now. I have a X17H and a 2015 4Runner. I'm down to two choices: Andersen 3324 or a 6K TN Fastway e2 2-point. Do you prefer Andersen over all others?

I have used the Andersen since I purchased this 22BHM in 2017. I can't emphasize enough how much I like it. It is a rock solid towing experience, the hitch is extremely light, and it is simple to hookup and adjust. After years of using traditional style hitches, this Andersen has been a dream. I have no regrets.

[RogerR]

I had two different bar type hitches before the Andersen. Both outweighed the Andersen. Both required I either use a pry bar gismo to get the bars into position with some risk to life and limb. I learned that I could do it with the hitch to take most of the work out of it and more safely. But I still had to move the bars around and install them each time. This included no sway resistance.
On the Andersen once adjusted I raise/lower the trailer with the jack and slip the triangle plate onto the bottom of the hitch and put in the pin, Then pull up the jack which tightens the chains and drive away. A lot less work. I don't have to set the tension on the chains each time I hitch up like the videos show. Very simple and foolproof. I LOVE IT. One of the lightest at about 55 pounds.

watch this video that makes some comparisons.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6viDcFtIDhc