Sway Issues?

[John7349]

Originally Posted by quantum743

Thanks for all the helpful ideas everyone. Here is what I did:

- I lowered the hitch head 1 hole which dropped the height of the camper by about an inch. The camper is now one inch nose down in the front from level.

-After measuring the rotating latches and double checking to verify the chain was vertical, I found that one of the clamps was 3/4" back from the other side. I corrected the position. This likely put a pull off center, not sure how much of a difference that would make.

- After checking tires, I found the dealer hadn't inflated them all to max before I left. 3 tires were at 60 PSI and 1 was at the max of 65 PSI. All tires are now at the max of 65.

- Checking the height of the truck after attaching the bars, the front was returned to its original position (unloaded), and the rear is down 1 1/8"

I am hoping the changes will greatly help the driving experience, but time will tell. Here are some pictures of the setup. Ignore the extra trailer brake cable, that is no longer there.

Your current setup looks a lot better now. I think this should tow way better now.

[Jagiven]

Looks good, now the real test is to go for a test drive.

One thing to note about your setup, is the lack of sway control. You may want to add a sway bar or two.

[mmwhit]

Quantum743 - your setup looks good. Please let us know how it performs.

Jagiven - the Blue Ox Sway Pro has sway control built in so you do not need sway bars. I know it looks like it needs sway bars, but they are not needed because sway control is engineered into the sway Pro without them.

[Johnny]

This is a very useful thread to me. Having NEVER towed a trailer like this before, I had some questions. They were mostly all answered here.

Just to verify, the travel trailer should be sitting very close to level when it's hooked up, right? When I left the dealer my TT was sitting visibly low in the front. Driving it home was a challenge.

[Doug]

I target nosed down in the front 1".

Doug

[Johnny]

Originally Posted by Doug

I target nosed down in the front 1".

Doug

At the risk of sounding like an idiot, 1" nose down over what length or from what point?

[Doug]

Originally Posted by Johnny

At the risk of sounding like an idiot, 1" nose down over what length or from what point?

I measure from ground to reference line on trailer at the front on the box. Then use the same reference at the rear of the box. On my trailer, it is a line associated with the aluminum siding.

Hope this helps.
Doug

[Johnny]

Originally Posted by Doug

I measure from ground to reference line on trailer at the front on the box. Then use the same reference at the rear of the box. On my trailer, it is a line associated with the aluminum siding.

Hope this helps.
Doug

Ah, got it. That makes sense. Thanks.

[Sundancer330]

To me if the trailer is nose down that is putting more weight on the tongue which will take weight off the front end of the truck adding to steering wander and sway. I like to keep it as close to level as possible, this works best for me.

[Johnny]

I hope the OP doesn't mind if I tack one more question on his thread.

If the front is really low, is the solution to move the bolts in the hitch up to a higher hole? I read about the washers, but for now that might as well be a foreign language. I suppose I'll need to learn it, though.

[Doug]

Originally Posted by Johnny

I hope the OP doesn't mind if I tack one more question on his thread.

If the front is really low, is the solution to move the bolts in the hitch up to a higher hole? I read about the washers, but for now that might as well be a foreign language. I suppose I'll need to learn it, though.

Yes if you're down 2", most receivers have 1" between holes.
As you go up with the hitch, it will raise your bars too. You will likely need to lower L-brackets by 1 hole too.

Measure your front wheel well heights between each adjustment.

I would also get out the manual for your WDH and follow it step by step. They are half way decent.

Doug

[quantum743]

Originally Posted by Johnny

I hope the OP doesn't mind if I tack one more question on his thread.

If the front is really low, is the solution to move the bolts in the hitch up to a higher hole? I read about the washers, but for now that might as well be a foreign language. I suppose I'll need to learn it, though.

I don't mind at all. Hopefully soon I will be able to provide feedback on how my setup is now towing. As far as your question. I believe that depends on how big of an adjustment you need to make. On my hitch drop, the holes are 1 1/4" apart. So raising or lowering it a hole will move the trailer up or down by 1 1/4". The Blue Ox hitch doesn't utilize washers, but my understanding is if you do have them, it will allow you to fine tune the height.

[Johnny]

Originally Posted by quantum743

I don't mind at all. Hopefully soon I will be able to provide feedback on how my setup is now towing. As far as your question. I believe that depends on how big of an adjustment you need to make. On my hitch drop, the holes are 1 1/4" apart. So raising or lowering it a hole will move the trailer up or down by 1 1/4". The Blue Ox hitch doesn't utilize washers, but my understanding is if you do have them, it will allow you to fine tune the height.

Thanks. I look forward to hearing how it goes for you.

In November I may have to face a set-up challenge. I'll be taking the new 26BH to Missouri on our annual family hunting trip. If no-one goes with an extra truck I will have to put my ATV in my truck bed. I think that will require some serious adjustment to the set-up.

[Johnny]

Originally Posted by Doug

Yes if you're down 2", most receivers have 1" between holes.
As you go up with the hitch, it will raise your bars too. You will likely need to lower L-brackets by 1 hole too.

Measure your front wheel well heights between each adjustment.

I would also get out the manual for your WDH and follow it step by step. They are half way decent.

Doug

If you raise the hitch you lower the L brackets? I guess I'll have to look at the hitch for that to make sense to me.

[Doug]

Originally Posted by Johnny

If you raise the hitch you lower the L brackets? I guess I'll have to look at the hitch for that to make sense to me.

The fixed end is attached to hitch. So if you raise hitch, the bars raise. That makes them closer to L-brackets. Closer to L-brackets means less tension to snap in.

Oh, that means you need to raise L-brackets. My bad.

Doug

[Johnny]

Originally Posted by Doug

The fixed end is attached to hitch. So if you raise hitch, the bars raise. That makes them closer to L-brackets. Closer to L-brackets means less tension to snap in.

Oh, that means you need to raise L-brackets. My bad.

Doug

You had me scratching my head there.

[Doug]

Originally Posted by Johnny

You had me scratching my head there.

Thanks for double checking my logic. Sometimes too quick to provide answers and get confused myself ;-)

Best regards,
Doug

[bondo303]

Sorry for the hijack but I have a question about the blue ox as well. Bought a blue is and set it up for my truck. Ram called and said we will take your truck 2 months early from lease and give you a new one for lease. I said ok and this time I went with 3.92 gears with lsd. Set up the hitch on this truck and went for a test drive and it worked well. My question is the bend in the bars. Which setup looks right?

1st pic is 9 links
2nd pic is 10 links.

The trailer is level.

Truck is level as well.

Thanks in advance.

Bondo

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[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by bondo303

snip.....My question is the bend in the bars. Which setup looks right?.......snip

The degree of spring bar bend (flex) is directly related to the amount of weight being distributed off the TV's rear axle....., also, not all suspensions react the same. It's difficult to say whether 9 links or 10 links returns the correct weight to your TV's front axle. Are you counting links "hanging" loose or "under tension"?

A visit to the CAT scale is the best way to confirm if one's WDH is adjusted correctly...., or you can use the ballpark method of measuring your TV's fender height's comparing TV unhitched with TV hitched (WDH engaged) fender heights.

CAT scale how-to: http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f3...v-tt-3871.html

A close-up pic of your WDH set-up would be easier to see if there were any minor set-up issues.

Bob

[bondo303]

Bob, thanks for the reply. Ok, let me clarify a bit. When I say 9 or 10 links, I am counting from the loose end to the bars so there is less chain from the bracket to the bar. So 10 links is more tension then 9 links. I should have taken close up pics when I had it connected. Also, measured fender heights are as follows. Front 37" unhooked and 37 1/4" hooked. Rear 39" unhooked and 37 1/4" hooked. The closet CAT scale is hours away from me. I am hoping to be close to one on one of hour trips this summer. It is on my list. Thanks again.

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