That's a great story and I'm glad you got it figured out. Electrical problems are the worst because so many weird, seemingly-impossible things can start happening. And the wire runs are so long and complex that it's super hard to trace and diagnose.
You also proved that, while a pain, you can drop the enclosed underbelly. I don't know how every trailer works, but my Forest River Rockwood trailer used a series of screws through the frame + a screw-down clamp at the rear. That clamp on my trailer eventually gave up the belly (the cloroplast was cut about 0.5" too short). But this allowed me to see how it was set in place. If I had to drop it, I expect it would have taken me about an hour crawling around unscrewing the 20+ screws and working the plastic out. But, it's doable to those who feel like they need to drop the underbelly for any reason.
Again, well done and thanks for the detailed write up to help everyone else. Man do I hate it when people respond to their own thread with a brief, "Never mind, I figured it out." What? How? What was the solution?!
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Future RV: Potentially an Eagle HT 284BHOK
Current TV: 2019 F-350 CCSB 4WD SRW 6.7L PSD 3.55, 3,591 lb payload
Ford Truck Help: Lariat doesn't have an e in it, Super Duty is two words, Power Stroke is two words, and F-x50 trucks have a hyphen in the names.
Fomer RV: 2018 Rockwood Mini Lite 2504S
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