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06-01-2020, 05:38 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Black River Falls, Wi
Posts: 1,154
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Time for brake pads
@ 60,000 miles, I’m getting ready to replace the brake pads on the truck and can’t decide if I should do rotors and pads or pads only. There’s zero brake pedal feedback and I’m too lazy right now to mic the rotors . From those who know, how have the rotors held up / measured ?
2016 Silverado 3500 HD SRW.
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06-01-2020, 07:01 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Mapleton
Posts: 4,336
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If those are the original rotors they most likely won't have enough metal to turn. Besides that they are probably warped in the bargain.
I would do both pads and rotors if I was doing it myself. If you take it somewhere they will most likely want to do it and charge you several times as much.
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06-01-2020, 07:36 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Where ever the boss says we're going.
Posts: 15,894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerR
If those are the original rotors they most likely won't have enough metal to turn. Besides that they are probably warped in the bargain.
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At 60,000 miles they may never have been turned. Unless he rides the brakes those are probably the original pads.
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DISNEY LOVERS
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06-01-2020, 08:19 PM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Connellsville
Posts: 22,664
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I haven't been very happy with the last couple sets of aftermarket rotors that I have used on our vehicles. If the OEM's are in good shape and can be reused with minimal surfacing, I say to keep them.
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Moderator
2017 Jay Feather 7 22BHM Baja/Andersen WD
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06-01-2020, 08:41 PM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Newark, NY
Posts: 15,700
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Vented rotors can be resurfaced, and the minimum allowable thickness is cast into the inside of the rotor. That measurement is how thin it can legally be as a result of both wear, and any machining done to it. If it had any warpage you would feel it. It only takes .004 inch warp to give you a slight pulse. If the surfaces aren't rusted badly they can be turned.
On the other hand, solid surface rotors (non-vented) are zero tolerance rotors. That's to say by the time you need brake pads, the rotors have already worn to their minimum thickness measurement. Those you throw away, and put on new.
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06-02-2020, 05:31 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Sterling
Posts: 186
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I was just looking at new rotors for my 2016 GMC 3500 4wd. Take a look on rock auto. They have AC Delco rotors for about $50 each. I will most likely go this route as I had a hard time finding someone to turn the rotors on my 04 2500 because of the hub size needed to mount them on the lathe.
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06-02-2020, 06:36 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Black River Falls, Wi
Posts: 1,154
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These are original pads and rotors. I typically have a good sense of pad wear but new tires last fall and free rotation @ Costco I haven’t looked for a while. Being a “one foot driver” with more highway than town driving and no noise or pedal feedback, I’ll likely do pads only with a light dressing of the rotors
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06-02-2020, 07:09 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Newburgh
Posts: 6,307
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I am pretty well set on doing rotors when I do brakes. I almost consider rotors consumable parts.
I have had good luck with Power Stop Branded Brake parts.
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06-04-2020, 12:29 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Twin Falls
Posts: 930
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My 2011 truck has 276,000 miles and still has the original brake pads, and original rotors.
Every time I replace the tires, rotate the tires, I have the shop inspect the brake pads, even the most recent they measure at least 50% of original pads still available. I have no rotor pulsation, or any indication of uneven wear or warping. My truck has a manual transmission, and I use the exhaust brake religiously whether towing or not.
60,000 miles, your brakes should be in good shape. YMMV.
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06-04-2020, 07:56 AM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: O'Fallon
Posts: 36
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Powerstop drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads. Added these all the way around on my 2018 F250. Much better braking than factory.
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06-04-2020, 08:13 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Newburgh
Posts: 6,307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcordell57
Powerstop drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads. Added these all the way around on my 2018 F250. Much better braking than factory.
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X2!
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2022 33RBTS
Progressive Industries EMS - Hardwired
Equalizer 4 Point WDH
2021 Ford F350 7.3
Air Lift Rear Bags w/ On Board Compressor (Pending)
2016 28BHBE - (Traded and Missed already)
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06-04-2020, 02:13 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 153
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I wouldn't assume they are heavily worn at 60k. I also would address the rotors on a need basis. Leaving them as thick as possible is the ticket. You DO NOT have to resurface the rotor unless needed to address either, a parallelism issue, irregular surface from pad wear, or rust ridges typically formed due to long periods of unuse. Replace if at or near min. , rust pitting, and obvious/noticeable runout . The o.e. rotors are superior to most aftermarket options.
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07-17-2020, 11:53 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Peoria
Posts: 103
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07-17-2020, 11:56 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Peoria
Posts: 103
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Sorry guys..didn’t read the whole post. Looks like a couple folks did use the Powerstop. Still like them? Did you replace the calipers too?
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07-17-2020, 01:13 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: midwest
Posts: 1,211
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only if they aren't returning and are frozen.. generally they go for at least 100k if you change your brake fluid every 2 years
what do you mean by zero pedal feedback?
I used the powerslots on my wifes avalanche and my former 1/2 ton with no issues... they don't warp and she can make the rotors warp fast... apparently slowing down only needs to be done in the last 25 feet...
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