Torsion bars lifting

[suzieshome]

Is it normal for the spring bars on wdh to lift when making sharp turns?We have the Husky 32218 Center Line

[Rustic Eagle]

Most WDH's don't like "extreme" TV turns especially if they aren't adjusted correctly which could result in 'excessive' noise, and/or spring bars binding/bending associated hardware.

Bob

[suzieshome]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

Most WDH's don't like "extreme" TV turns especially if they aren't adjusted correctly which could result in 'excessive' noise, and/or spring bars binding/bending associated hardware.

Bob

Could it be because there is too much weight transferred to the tongue? Unfortunately there isn’t a scale near me, that I am aware of, to weigh it.

[eagleback]

What pound bar do you use. might be too light.

[Rustic Eagle]

suizieshome,

The WDH's main design function is to distribute weight "off" the TV's rear axle due to the effect of the tongue weight being placed on the hitch ball. The WDH when adjusted correctly will "return" the weight that was "removed" from the TV's front axle when the tongue weight was initially placed on the hitch ball. For the most part once the tongue weight is placed on the hitch ball it remains fairly constant.

I would confirm that your WDH is adjusted correctly under "loaded" conditions...., the Husky installation/adjustment documentation is a good start (CAT scale can follow).

If your RV dealer didn't provide the Husky Center Line documentation the following may be helpful:

Husky: https://www.huskytow.com/wp-includes...structions.pdf

The above instructions will get you in the ballpark, the CAT scale can dial-in adjustments and confirm weights.

CAT scale: https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...v-tt-3871.html

Bob

[suzieshome]

Bars are rated at 800-1200. Trailer is around 4400lbs plus gear, maybe another 300lbs.

[suzieshome]

We did all the adjustments as per the manual.We got a new tv so had to change it. We keep everything in the trailer between trips except clothes, and travel with empty tanks. I didn’t notice if the bars lifted on the previous set up. So are you saying the lifting is not normal, or is to be expected in tight turns?

[eagleback]

Are you towing level?

[suzieshome]

Yes

[eagleback]

Just to recap, When you setup a WDH, On a level surface you set the camper level then back your vehicle up to the hitch then set the ball height to the nearest hole so the trailer would be level with the ball, choosing a hole one notch higher if not level. hitch the vehcle to the trailer, then adjust the bars to remove the drop in the back end back up to a level position. Correct?

[EvilDoer]

Originally Posted by eagleback

Just to recap, When you setup a WDH, On a level surface you set the camper level then back your vehicle up to the hitch then set the ball height to the nearest hole so the trailer would be level with the ball, choosing a hole one notch higher if not level. hitch the vehcle to the trailer, then adjust the bars to remove the drop in the back end back up to a level position. Correct?

Close, but not quite. Yours may be different, but the Equalizer instructions make no reference to the rear of the vehicle. You want to adjust the tension of the bars to lower the FRONT of the vehicle at least 1/2 way back down to original height. Remember, the purpose of the WDH is to distribute part of the load to the front wheels.

[suzieshome]

Ours also says to measure height from top of the tire to underside of fender front and back. Attach trailer, adjust again as necessary so measurements are the same as pre trailer hookup within 1/2”

[bankr63]

This might be because your bars are too heavy for your trailer. Yours is rated for 800-1,200 tongue weight with a 12,000 lb max GTW. You say your trailer is around 5,000 lbs loaded, probably in the 750 lbs of tongue weight range. That would be more in the next size down; 600-800 TW, 8,000 GTW.

You might want to check your tongue weight (either with a tongue scale, or with a multi-pass CAT Scale weigh in) to see if it is high enough. If your bars are too heavy, they aren't compressing much with a light tongue and transferring all of the load to the other bar in a corner. Lighter bars would compress more and probably wouldn't lift.

If I am correct in this, you can probably buy just the bars. I have a Husky round bar, and you can swap out the bars as your trailer size changes.

[suzieshome]

Going to have a conversation with the dealer, as this is what he recommended

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by suzieshome

Ours also says to measure height from top of the tire to underside of fender front and back. Attach trailer, adjust again as necessary so measurements are the same as pre trailer hookup within 1/2”

Again, that's close, but not quite right.

The reason you measure the rear fenders is to ensure that the pre-install measurement is not MORE than the post-install measurement. The rear end of the truck should squat somewhat.

The key measurement is the front. As Bob (Rustic Eagle) said, the purpose of a WDH is to return weight to the front axle that was lost because of the seesaw effect of adding significant weight behind the rear axle. The point is NOT to level the truck; that's a common misconception.

Typically the end result should be that the trailer is riding level, the front fender measurement is the same as it was when the truck was unloaded (reference your tow vehicle's manual for this, some vehicles are different; example, GM used to say return fender height 100% to unloaded level, Ford used to say return half), and the rear end of the truck squats a little (again, depends on the specific truck).

If your bars aren't under much tension, I could see the potential for one to lift, especially during a sharp, off-camber turn. Typically you run into problems with bars that are UNDER spec'd for the job. If bars are OVER spec'd, they should still work. About the only hitch where this is not the case is the Blue Ox Sway Pro. That's because the anti-sway function of the hitch depends somewhat on the bars deflecting. If the bars are too stiff or under-loaded, they won't bend enough to provide optimal anti-sway capabilities.

If you set it up by the numbers, having heavier bars than necessary shouldn't matter.

[suzieshome]

They seem to under plenty of tension. We have to lift the back of the truck almost off the ground before the bars are high enough to lift and attach

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by suzieshome

They seem to under plenty of tension. We have to lift the back of the truck almost off the ground before the bars are high enough to lift and attach

Honestly, I'm having trouble visualizing what you mean when you say the bar "lifts" in a tight turn.

Do you mean the spring bar lifts up and loses contact with the perch?

Or do you mean something else. My bars weren't exactly parallel with my frame, so when I would turn, they would point upward quite a bit, but they would still be hanging on the perches, just not true flat against them.

I can't imagine a situation that would cause the bar to lift up and lose contact with the perch. Especially if it's under as much tension as you are describing.

Perhaps if the rear of the truck were elevated significantly, like just the rear tires up on a large bump or something. This would have the same geometric effect as raising the tongue when you install the bars.

But in a normal turn under normal conditions with a properly configured WDH, I can't imagine the bars lifting off the perches for any reason.

[suzieshome]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

Honestly, I'm having trouble visualizing what you mean when you say the bar "lifts" in a tight turn.

Do you mean the spring bar lifts up and loses contact with the perch?

Or do you mean something else. My bars weren't exactly parallel with my frame, so when I would turn, they would point upward quite a bit, but they would still be hanging on the perches, just not true flat against them.

I can't imagine a situation that would cause the bar to lift up and lose contact with the perch. Especially if it's under as much tension as you are describing.

Perhaps if the rear of the truck were elevated significantly, like just the rear tires up on a large bump or something. This would have the same geometric effect as raising the tongue when you install the bars.

But in a normal turn under normal conditions with a properly configured WDH, I can't imagine the bars lifting off the perches for any reason.

Yes the bar lifting from the perch. It was a very tight turn coming out of the site and the ground was very very uneven

[wwt]

Originally Posted by suzieshome

the ground was very very uneven

Bingo!

[Vaquero]

Winner!