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Old 04-07-2017, 04:27 AM   #21
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JeremiahM I do not agree that that's to soon for front brakes, the norm use to be around 30K miles use to be part of a 30K service and a 60K service Just my 2 cents
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Old 04-07-2017, 05:45 AM   #22
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herewego Yeah for pad change out it's normal, he's saying they need to change rotors, that's way too much wear too fast

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Old 04-07-2017, 07:04 AM   #23
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Drilled and slotted rotors... and more aggressive brake pads.. I have always felt that being able to STOP is more important than being able to go...

I went to Summit Racing for the parts.. I also upgraded my brake lines to braded metal.. (when the rubber ones needed replacing)
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Old 04-07-2017, 12:26 PM   #24
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So...

Brake Technician said that all wheel temps were within range and no serious differences. He said he saw no reason to get new rotors, but that front pads were at 5mm. Suggested looking at rotor thickness when having the pads replaced. He did say that the trailer brakes weren't contributing much to the braking, to turn up the gain.
May have to look into effectiveness of the OEM Ford brake controller to see if there are issues/tests/updates etc.
I'll have to find something else to worry about.
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Old 04-07-2017, 12:47 PM   #25
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Brake Technician said that all wheel temps were within range and no serious differences. He said he saw no reason to get new rotors, but that front pads were at 5mm. Suggested looking at rotor thickness when having the pads replaced. He did say that the trailer brakes weren't contributing much to the braking, to turn up the gain.
May have to look into effectiveness of the OEM Ford brake controller to see if there are issues/tests/updates etc.
I'll have to find something else to worry about.
Well, at least you know what to work on. Narrows down the list of things to check. I don't know much about the effectiveness of the Ford factory brake controller, but there are some really good aftermarket ones out there.
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Old 04-07-2017, 03:05 PM   #26
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Did you check that the truck's rear brakes are working properly? If the proportional valve that increases the rear braking on the truck, when carrying a heavy load isn't working correctly, then the front brakes will be much more work than they need to. Also, I'm not sure if you disc or shoes on the rear of your 350, but if it is shoes, is the self adjusters working correctly? It may not be only the trailer brakes that are not working properly.
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Old 04-07-2017, 03:42 PM   #27
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Did you check that the truck's rear brakes are working properly? If the proportional valve that increases the rear braking on the truck, when carrying a heavy load isn't working correctly, then the front brakes will be much more work than they need to. Also, I'm not sure if you disc or shoes on the rear of your 350, but if it is shoes, is the self adjusters working correctly? It may not be only the trailer brakes that are not working properly.
The tech thought that the temps at rear were showing a reasonable temp (and are disc), so thought they are doing as designed. He did add that it's a shame that a truck designed for work like this can't be adjusted for proportion of front/rear braking. It would be nice to set front at something more like 50 or 60%, not 80.
I'll take my newly ordered temp gun on trip next week with gain set at max and see if things improve.
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Old 04-07-2017, 04:27 PM   #28
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The f350 is Hydroboost, correct. Cause I believe for some dumb reason Ford went back to putting vacuum boost on 250s

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Old 04-07-2017, 05:30 PM   #29
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The tech thought that the temps at rear were showing a reasonable temp (and are disc), so thought they are doing as designed. He did add that it's a shame that a truck designed for work like this can't be adjusted for proportion of front/rear braking. It would be nice to set front at something more like 50 or 60%, not 80.
I'll take my newly ordered temp gun on trip next week with gain set at max and see if things improve.
While pulling a trailer or 5er, you don't want any chance of the rears locking up whatsoever. Don't know what the proper proportion is, but it's way more than 50%.

Scenario: Slow, winding downhill with a few very tight turns and gravel/dirt out across the road. You are braking to control speed on a strong grade. As you slowly enter the turn, the rears lock up, ABS comes on, but it's not enough. The weight and inertia of the trailer is pushing the rear end around to catch up with the front end of the TV. Luckily, you end up countersteering with your foot entirely off the brake, and fake your way out of it this time at a higher speed than you wanted to go round that bend. But it works out in the end, because you got lucky. That happened to me, and it could have ended in a complete jackknife had I not known exactly what to do. Much better if the fronts lock up, if anything. I'd be careful about taking too much pressure out of those fronts.
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Old 04-07-2017, 08:49 PM   #30
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When stopping, especially with a trailer, there is nothing abnormal about hot wheels/brakes. Brakes rely on friction and the primary product of friction is heat. I'd say you're maybe a smidge early, but you're getting the same life as I am out of steer axle brakes on my F350. I tow almost as much as you but I do drive/brake aggressively. If I recall, Ford upgraded the 250/350 brakes around 2015. Both of our trucks have the older, smaller setup.


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Old 04-07-2017, 11:34 PM   #31
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I really love the exhaust brake on my VGT turbo. There is a very long steep canyon near Salt Lake City. Coming down it the first time I towed the trailer with my new to me 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins. This canyon has some places that are 13% grade. Just using the exhaust brake I didn't really have to push on the brake pedal. Actually there were a few times I had to push the gas pedal so the exhaust brake would let go so I could get back to the speed limit. It works that well.
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Old 04-08-2017, 03:47 AM   #32
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JeremiahM yes I agree to fast to change out rotors.. when I did mine I replaced the rotors ( Did not need rotors) I had the old ones resurfaced so next time I need brakes I can put on some fresh rotors also...
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