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Old 01-28-2016, 11:18 AM   #1
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Towing 2016 32BHDS with RAM1500

I'm brand new to camping, just purchased a new camper and I'm second guessing the vehicle I have currently as a tow vehicle. It's a 2014 Ram 1500 with the Hemi, 6spd, and 3.92 gears. It's rated to tow 10100lbs and the trailer is supposed to have a GVWR of 9975lbs. I'm camping locally mostly but I'm thinking this may be too much trailer for my light duty truck.... Does anyone have a similar set up??? (I work for a dealership so it'll have to be a ram replacement & I do not like diesel for an everyday vehicle)

Thanks for any replies and advice -RR
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Old 01-28-2016, 11:36 AM   #2
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Welcome to the forum. IMO the 32BHDS is a tall order for a 1500/150 series truck. The loaded tongue weight on that unit could approach 1300-1500 lbs alone and the payload of the 1500 series trucks is very limiting. It is also a 35' trailer IIRC.
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Old 01-28-2016, 11:52 AM   #3
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i echo crabman, I have the same trailer and tow it with a F250. Its a lot of trailer to tow with a half ton. Hook it up and put it on a set of CAT scales to know for sure. You don't want to find out when its too late.
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Old 01-28-2016, 12:09 PM   #4
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" It is also a 35' trailer IIRC " what does this mean?
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Old 01-28-2016, 01:04 PM   #5
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Quote:
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" It is also a 35' trailer IIRC " what does this mean?

It means if I recall correctly it is a 35 foot long trailer, which also adds to the difficulties in towing with a truck that has a suspension that is under equipped to tow it. Having towed my trailer with both a 1500 and 2500, consider my truck comparison thread on the subject:

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f3...ces-11464.html
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Old 01-28-2016, 01:36 PM   #6
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Before thinking on changing the truck, I would buy a 3P propride or Hensley hitch. It may be that it's all you need to tow with comfort.
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Old 01-28-2016, 01:46 PM   #7
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Unfortunately the Ram 1500 series trucks are the worst of the big 3 for payload. I've seen some absolutely dreadful available payload numbers on Ram 1500s. And just to be clear, that's where you'll run out first, payload.

I'll echo the advice to take it to a scale and find out for sure, but I'm betting you'll be a fair bit over your payload figure with that trailer. Perhaps even over the GAWR. You'll have to check the numbers to be sure.

I towed my trailer with a 1/2 T GMC for over a year, and while it was within the technical limits of the truck, it was not fun or relaxing for me in any way. Now I have a RAM 2500 with the 6.4L and I couldn't be happier. Plenty of power for my trailer, very comfortable truck for my family (it's my daily driver, and I have a 7 mile commute for work, so that's another reason I went with gas instead of the Cummins), and more payload than I could ever want. Only regret (and it's not really a regret) is that I didn't hold out for the 4.10 rear end. That would have made my truck that much sweeter for me. But as it is, the 3.73 is plenty good enough for me as I don't tow in any kind of appreciable terrain hardly ever.
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Old 01-28-2016, 02:03 PM   #8
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My 2c:

Being a mechanical Engineer that has being working on the automotive industry the past 18 years, I learned that for every problem there are always a great number of technical solutions... Some solutions are more expensive than others and some more technical elegant than others....
To buy a bigger truck to solve swing problems is an expensive and not elegant, to say the least, approach.
It's the approach of: Put more money and increase the weight of the TV that you solve that problem.
Unless you like a big truck with a big diesel engine (has nothing to do with towing) swing can be completely eliminated with a Hensley or Propride hitch (~$2500).
That is the technical, engineer way to solve (solve - not reduce) the problem and as a bonus you save a pile of money in the process (more brain, less money ).
Also I can't understand the fear to be at the stated limit of carrying capacity or towing capacity. For the producer to have put those numbers on the chart they made sure that they will have absolutely no liability in doing so... It means that the components would fail with probably twice that weight...
Again, I'm talking about sway control.
Now, if the reason for a big truck is because you want to town 10K pounds uphill @ 65mph... That's a different story....
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Old 01-28-2016, 02:15 PM   #9
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i too am an Engineer and have been in manufacturing for almost 41 years, last 23 in Automotive. I know these trucks will handle more than stated just to keep law suits to nil, if at all possible; but to state the limits could be TWICE as much as stated by the manufacturer is being very speculative. The OP himself is stating he thinks he needs a bigger truck, and I would guess he came to that conclusion from his towing experience. Sounds like he needs more truck and a 250 or 2500 truck would take care of the issue with a more robust suspension and more than likely more HP & TQ. Gas or diesel, but if gas, I'd go with bigger engine, IF he can afford a diesel, it would net the best MPG, towing or empty..

Do believe he would have a more pleasant towing experience towing with a 3/4 ton truck.
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Old 01-28-2016, 02:29 PM   #10
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I wouldn't rush to replace your TV.
Hook it up and take it to the CAT scale and see where you are. My guess is you are going to be close. Other factors to consider have been mentioned and are valid. How does it handle? Are you using a good distribution and sway hitch? Will you be driving in the hills? The biggest difference I have seen from a 150/1500 to a 250/2500 is power, handling and stopping with STOPPING safely being the most important.
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Old 01-28-2016, 02:33 PM   #11
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First a disclaimer: I'll NEVER recommend anyone to ride above the stated limits, I don't want that liability.
That being said, I'm not being speculative when I say twice for I have witnessed a SUV with 600 lbs tongue weight limit to tow a trailer with more than 1000 lbs tongue weight for 30K miles and had no issues.
I think during the last two decades a lot of engineering have developed on this issue and I think we need to start better defining the problem: If you want to go uphill at 65mph, then buy a big engine, if you want to solve swing problems, buy a hensley or pro pride hitch...
almost every post I read about problems and difficult situations it's the swing thing that is involved, so why not simple eliminate it?
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Old 01-28-2016, 02:35 PM   #12
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Another engineering solution:
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Old 01-28-2016, 02:41 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RACarvalho View Post
First a disclaimer: I'll NEVER recommend anyone to ride above the stated limits, I don't want that liability.
That being said, I'm not being speculative when I say twice for I have witnessed a SUV with 600 lbs tongue weight limit to tow a trailer with more than 1000 lbs tongue weight for 30K miles and had no issues.
I think during the last two decades a lot of engineering have developed on this issue and I think we need to start better defining the problem: If you want to go uphill at 65mph, then buy a big engine, if you want to solve swing problems, buy a hensley or pro pride hitch...
almost every post I read about problems and difficult situations it's the swing thing that is involved, so why not simple eliminate it?
Towing over recommended manufacturers weight ratings doesn't make it right, or safe, you should know this.

No one is talking about towing up a mountain at 65 mph, (don't know where you got that from), but with the right truck and hitch, SWAY isn't an issue, and you don't struggle trying to go 35-40 mph up the same mountain...It's common sense and basic math that will help one match a TV up with what they want to tow, using truck manufacturers recommended weights.

You say you wouldn't recommend it, but you speculate ratings could be twice as high as manufacturer recommends:face palm: How is that not saying it's "OK"?
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Old 01-28-2016, 02:50 PM   #14
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"How is that not saying it's "OK"?"
That is not to say you are ok to drive over the limits.

That is to say you are ok to drive close (but under) the limits.
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Old 01-28-2016, 02:59 PM   #15
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Why so much focus on sway? When I was towing near my maximums with my GMC, it wasn't sway I was worried about. In fact, I didn't have hardly any sway problems. What I DID have were problems being under-powered, stability problems, sag problems, porpoising problems, potential braking problems, and did I mention power problems? On top of all that, I was at my specified maximums with a child on the way. And I knew things were only going to get heavier as that little boy grows up.

Sure, we can argue till we're blue in the face about what the actual engineering capacities are (ie, failure point) vs what the printed documentation says, but none of that matters. What matters is that you're safe and comfortable out there on the road. And I for one don't want to find out that my truck will have a catastrophic failure at XX lbs.
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Old 01-28-2016, 03:16 PM   #16
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I watch a movie called the "long long trailer" starring Lucy and Desi Arnez and they used a dolly between the trailer and the car to eliminate the tongue weight issue. I also found out that they are still made today...they are called trailer toads and may save you buying a vehicle just for the purpose of towing your trailer.

TrailerToad.com
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Old 01-28-2016, 03:30 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by RACarvalho View Post
Before thinking on changing the truck, I would buy a 3P propride or Hensley hitch. It may be that it's all you need to tow with comfort.
I've noticed that on this and at least one other thread, you're a huge proponent for the Hensley or the ProPride hitches. I wonder if you understand ALL of the problem. If sway is your issue, then yes, the most elegant and effective solution (albeit VERY expensive) may be a Hensley or ProPride. But you DO understand that this equipment does not increase the rated capacity of the tow vehicle, right? If you're over your numbers, you're over. No hitch will change that. It MIGHT make it FEEL better when you're over your numbers, but you're still over your numbers. Period.

These are not subjective terms we're talking about here that are open to interpretation. Your truck scales at XX lbs fully loaded, your GVWR is YY lbs, the difference is what's left for additional payload to include the tongue of the trailer and your hitch and tackle. That's it. Period. And I can tell you from experience that if the gap between XX and YY is narrow, it's not fun.
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Old 01-28-2016, 03:37 PM   #18
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I'm brand new to camping, just purchased a new camper and I'm second guessing the vehicle I have currently as a tow vehicle......snip
Rooster,

Welcome to JOF

Since you already have the TV and TT, the first thing I would do is find out where you fall with your present TV and TT weight specifications (limits) ....., good to start with actual "real" weights based on "your" loading habits.

I would recommend loading your TV/TT like you would for a camping trip. "If" you will normally tow with water in the TT fresh water tank, add the water. Also, have a full tank of fuel in your TV.

Take your loaded TV/TT (with passengers) to your local CAT scale. The following JOF link will walk you through the weigh-in process. If you have a friend that has towed TT's before, have him join you for the weigh-in.

CAT scale how-to: http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f3...v-tt-3871.html

The weigh-in process will tell you just about everything you need to know like: confirms proper WDH size & adjustment, loaded TT tongue weight, loaded weight relationship to TV weight limits, etc..

One thing to keep in mind, the "loaded" tongue weight of the TT gets subtracted from your TV's payload capacity (tongue weight is supported by the TV)....., the CAT results will reflect the impact.

At the end of the day if your TV/TT loaded weights fall within your TV/TT manufacture's specified weight limits, then it's up to you to decide if your TV meets your towing expectations. If you find that your loaded weights exceed your TV's limits, now you have some actual "loaded" weight data to use in the decision making process.

Just food for thought...; The Hensley Arrow and ProPride are superior WDH's, but they do weigh at least twice as much as a Reese or Equal-i-zer brand WDH with integrated sway control...., the WDH weight is also subtracted from a TV's payload capacity.

Bob
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Old 01-28-2016, 03:52 PM   #19
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With the experience I have with towing trailers (not just campers) you should consider how many miles you are going to make a year while pulling your camper. If you plan on towing your camper every weekend to a different place then you may want to consider an upgrade to a 2500 (3/4 ton) truck. If you plan on towing your trailer maybe 3-5 times a year then you should consider a hitch leveller system and possibly air bags for your 1500. The Ram 1500 you have with the 5.7 and gears you have will be plenty capable of towing your rig. (downfall with the Rams are the coil suspensions). I personally have a 2500 and still use a levelling hitch with our camper trailer. (I didn't need a 2500 but was time to upgrade and got a power wagon)

Just my $0.02.

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Old 01-28-2016, 03:55 PM   #20
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I have a 32BHDS and here are my numbers with my old truck (2005 Silverado 2500HD Diesel 4x4). It may help with your decisions. This was on my way home from camping with my family - minimal water in the tanks.

WDH connected
Steer axle: 4120 lbs
Drive axle: 4920 lbs
Trailer axle: 8100 lbs
Total axle: 17140 lbs

WDH not connected
Steer axle: 3980 lbs
Drive axle: 5120 lbs
Trailer axle: 8040 lbs
Total axle: 17140 lbs

Truck only
Steer axle: 4400 lbs
Drive axle: 3600 lbs
Total axle: 8000 lbs

Gross Combined Weight 17,140
This weight should not exceed your truck's GCWR.



Truck Weight (hitched + WDH engaged) 9,040
This weight should not exceed your truck's GVWR.



Truck Weight (hitched; no WDH) 9,100




Truck Weight (truck only) 8,000




Camper Weight 9,140




Tongue Weight 1,100




Tongue Weight Percentage 12 %
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