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Old 08-20-2022, 12:59 PM   #41
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The main junction where the 7-pin cable gets split to brakes and lights is inside the trailer (behind the drawer under the front bench seat). All wire nuts were snug, and since this is out of the elements, I don't think the problem could be here.
I crawled under the camper to look at the electrical connections. There is a flexible "wire nut" that covers each splice. The RR brake wire connections look kind of rough. See photos. The other connections were clean metal and bright copper. Could these corroded connections add resistance to the circuit and contribute to the brakes not working adequately?
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Old 08-20-2022, 01:24 PM   #42
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How long has it been (miles) since you have had the wheels off and visually inspected the brakes? Most all electric brakes now have self-adjusting brake shoes, however on a previous trailer I had, the self-adjusting aspect didn't work so well and a manual brake adjustment was needed once in a while. Also with the wheels off you can repack the bearings and make sure there isn't any grease on the brake shoes.

I would finish inspecting the wiring, and if no issues are found I would go back to what DocBrown shared in post #25. ~CA
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Old 08-20-2022, 02:53 PM   #43
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Regarding Post #41 above, if I cut these wires and do new splices, is there anything I need to know? Can I use a regular wire nut and electrical tape (using plenty of tape to exclude moisture), or is there something special I should use? Thanks.
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Old 08-20-2022, 03:11 PM   #44
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Regarding Post #41 above, if I cut these wires and do new splices, is there anything I need to know? Can I use a regular wire nut and electrical tape (using plenty of tape to exclude moisture), or is there something special I should use? Thanks.
Nothing overly special, you need to either brush the copper wire clean or cut back the wires until you reach clean copper. I can't tell by the photo, but you should use a wire nut sized for the conductors and preferably a waterproof\weatherproof wire nut that has grease inside of it (I prefer the ones with a spring inside). When done properly, no tape is needed, however if you want to use tape, don't stretch the tape much if any at all, just wrap it a couple of turns. ~CA
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Old 08-23-2022, 01:21 PM   #45
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Latest update:

Hooked up to my father-in-law's trailer, and brakes worked using the manual lever on our P3 controller in our TV -- both forward and reverse.

So the problem is definitely on our trailer. I redid the corroded connection shown in a previous post. That made no difference.
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Old 08-29-2022, 02:15 PM   #46
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Replaced brakes! Driveway test successful!

After determining that our P3 controller works with another trailer, and having eliminated other problems, I decided to replace the set of brakes. I bought four brake kits from eTrailer. They arrived in a couple of days. I installed the right side brakes on Friday and the left side brakes today (Monday).

This was all new territory to me, but with YouTube, who can go wrong?? It's basically the same as doing a bearing repack, with the extra steps of removing the four nuts that hold the brake assemblies on. For wiring connections, I used 3M Scothlok 314 connectors.

Initial test on our uphill sloped driveway was successful. This evening I plan to do a more thorough road test.

The instructions from Dexter say to burnish the new brakes by applying the brakes 20 to 30 times, slowing from a speed of 40 mph to 20 mph, allowing the brakes to cool between each application. I don't have a track nearby, so in the real world, how should I go about burnishing the brakes? Does the process intend for me to brake with the manual lever, or by applying the TV brakes? I will stop in a nearby parking lot to do the initial P3 controller setting.
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Old 08-29-2022, 03:35 PM   #47
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A rep at eTrailer told me to burnish the brakes using the manual control lever, so I'll be going to the largest parking lot I can find nearby.
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Old 08-30-2022, 05:51 AM   #48
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A rep at eTrailer told me to burnish the brakes using the manual control lever, so I'll be going to the largest parking lot I can find nearby.
Last time I did this I just towed the trailer for a 20 mile ride on the highway and just used the manual lever to apply the brakes. Run along at like 50 - 55 mph, apply the manual lever for say a quarter mile and then let off for a mile or so and repeat.
It's more about heating up the shoes to finish curing them and transferring some shoe material to the surface of the rotors. You are also mating the magnets to the face of the drums for maximum contact. You'll feel them getting better & better each time you apply them & then let them cool.
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