Trans. Fluid Change

[Chet & Marie]

Our tow vehicle is a 2014 Chev Silverado with the 5.3 liter engine, tow package and auto trans. On my old 2001 Silverado I changed all the fluids ever 100 K miles with no problem. This one is the 6 speed auto with 65K miles and pulls a 5K TT with ease and never gets over 195 degrees. How often should I change the trans fluid? Most of the miles are long trips pulling the tt.

[Riverman]

Owners manual will tell

[Lake Huron]

That could almost be considered severe duty in my opinion. Your owners manual should say the change interval for severe duty. Again, my $.02, I'd change the fluid and filter now and at 100k take it to a shop and have them hook it to the machine to flush the old fluid out and pump new fluid in. Connecting a pump to it flushes the entire trans including the torque converter, which holds a lot of fluid and doesnt drain out when you do a simple filter and fluid change. Unless it has a drain plug, which I highly doubt it does. Fluid and filters are cheap compared to a replacement transmission.

[Lake Huron]

Also wouldnt be a bad idea at this time to pull the rear diff cover and change the fluid there too. That's a simple job, basic hand tools can get that job done.

[ATX512]

Originally Posted by Lake Huron

That could almost be considered severe duty in my opinion. Your owners manual should say the change interval for severe duty. Again, my $.02, I'd change the fluid and filter now and at 100k take it to a shop and have them hook it to the machine to flush the old fluid out and pump new fluid in. Connecting a pump to it flushes the entire trans including the torque converter, which holds a lot of fluid and doesnt drain out when you do a simple filter and fluid change. Unless it has a drain plug, which I highly doubt it does. Fluid and filters are cheap compared to a replacement transmission.

X2
Look for a shop that is listed with BG products. They are the industry leaders and will offer warranties above and beyond the manufacture when serviced regularly.

[Lake Huron]

Originally Posted by ATX512

X2
Look for a shop that is listed with BG products. They are the industry leaders and will offer warranties above and beyond the manufacture when serviced regularly.

Agreed. BG and AmsOil are both good products. I have BG in my wifes G6. I took it to a shop to have it flushed, because it needed a flush and is not real fun to do, at 105K and he put BG in it. My 01 Yukon has 140k on it and I run Amsoil in that and in my Duramax. Both products are holding up very well. Cant go wrong with either but you'll prolly find BG products at a few more shops out there than AmsOil.

[CAG]

No offense but your owners manual should be your reference and not an Internet site. In most all cases I used the severe use recommendation and all my vehicles and engines have a Amsoil products in them.

[Chet & Marie]

The manual says 100k but less 45k for severe use. We pull the TT about half the miles so I had planned to change it at 70k when we return to Wis from the TX gulf coast. My dealer says to wait to the 100k. I think that is too long as I plan to get 200k or more miles. I was wondering what other Silverado owners did? By the way, we are extremely happy with our Chevy.

[CAG]

Originally Posted by Chet & Marie

The manual says 100k but less 45k for severe use. We pull the TT about half the miles so I had planned to change it at 70k when we return to Wis from the TX gulf coast. My dealer says to wait to the 100k. I think that is too long as I plan to get 200k or more miles. I was wondering what other Silverado owners did? By the way, we are extremely happy with our Chevy.

There is an forum for Duramax owners covering every engine and every year. I don’t have the URL right off the top of my head but you can find it with a search. Any question you can think of is covered. I bought my first Duramax in 2004. Loved those trucks.

If the manual says 100K and I towed I changed fluids at 50K. Fluids and oils are cheap compared to an Allison tranny. And only Amsoil but that’s me.

[curver900]

Originally Posted by CAG

There is an forum for Duramax owners covering every engine and every year. I don’t have the URL right off the top of my head but you can find it with a search. Any question you can think of is covered. I bought my first Duramax in 2004. Loved those trucks.

If the manual says 100K and I towed I changed fluids at 50K. Fluids and oils are cheap compared to an Allison tranny. And only Amsoil but that’s me.

FYI the amsoil oil is NOT certified by allison... TES-295 standard
https://allisontransmission.com/part...highway-fluids
also the 1500 does not have an allison transmission so it is a mute point you can have your transmission flushed at the dealer or your local car outfit with the recommended fluid.

Technically the only way to know if you need to change your oil is with an oil analysis according to some. In my 1500 I changed it out at 50k because it wasn't that big and it was a discount spring deal.

OP has never had an over heat but does tow allot I think doing it is worth while before the trailering season.. a little early?? sure but then people change their oil at 3k miles too for no apparent reason...

[CAG]

Originally Posted by curver900

FYI the amsoil oil is NOT certified by allison... TES-295 standard
https://allisontransmission.com/part...highway-fluids
also the 1500 does not have an allison transmission so it is a mute point you can have your transmission flushed at the dealer with the recommended fluid.

Both Amsoil and I are aware of that. Call amsoil and ask them if you are of a mind to find out why but Moss-magnuson makes it a MOOT point.

You are correct on the gasser and transmission. I got on a role thinking he had a Duramax as there is another thread where we were covering info on diesel.

[curver900]

Originally Posted by CAG

Both Amsoil and I are aware of that. Call amsoil and ask them if you are of a mind to find out why but Moss-magnuson makes it a MOOT point.

You are correct on the gasser and transmission. I got on a role thinking he had a Duramax as there is another thread where we were covering info on diesel.

I don't care one way or the other, but others should know. I just use the certified tested synthetics.

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by Chet & Marie

Our tow vehicle is a 2014 Chev Silverado with the 5.3 liter engine, tow package and auto trans. On my old 2001 Silverado I changed all the fluids ever 100 K miles with no problem. This one is the 6 speed auto with 65K miles and pulls a 5K TT with ease and never gets over 195 degrees. How often should I change the trans fluid? Most of the miles are long trips pulling the tt.

The owner's manual will have a "regular service" (as in normal driving) service interval schedule for all routine service items. It will also have a "hard service" schedule for vehicles that are worked hard, driven in dusty conditions, and so on. Follow the "hard service" schedule.

[Dieseldog59]

I have towed my Jayco Eagle with two MoPars. The first was a 1995 Dodge Ram, 360 cid, 46RH auto and my current pulling rig, 2003 Dodge Ram, 5.9L HO Cummins, 48RE auto. Both of these transmissions have a “reputation” as the Dodge driveline weak link. I disagree but that is my opinion. In both vehicles I added double deep transmission pans and changed fluid and filters every 20,000 miles. I have not experienced a single transmission failure. I use Redline +3 transmission fluid. Both vehicles required +4 however a call to Redline confirmed their +3 is an equivalent to Mopar +4. They do not carry a Chrysler endorsement like Valvoline or even O’Reilly +4 does. I also do not run the +4 transmission fluid in my transfer case as recommended by Chrysler. ATF +4 is basically a 20 weight fluid. I run Synchromesh in my transfer case which is a 30 weight. The “pump” in the transfer case has handled the synchromesh just fine. Just my two cents. Also, I don’t believe in flushing machines. On a Chrysler 727 based transmission as the 46 RH and 48 RE are, simply remove the rear transmission line, add a rubber hose extension into a bucket, start the vehicle, place it in neutral, and monitor the fluid coming out the disconnected line. When flow stops, turn off the engine immediately. Reconnect the line and continue on with your filter and fluid change.

[Cheekjo]

You may want to research flushing transmissions. There are reasons for not doing it. Some manufacturers will void warranties if you do. Flushing could cause fine particles back into the interior.

[RogerR]

Before a transmission change or even an oil change make sure your fluids meet warranty requirements. I bought an extended warranty and it clearly states only approved fluids and lubes or the warranty is gone.

Once out of warranty then use your best judgement. Except for possible wasted money going with severe duty is the best protection.

[RPR]

If your vehicle allows drop the transmission pan and replace the filter do not flush or pump fluid out through the dip stick. Particles settle to the bottom and pumping or flush will stir them up and deposit some of the stuff in the workings of the transmission.

[scuba0331]

Wont hurt to change early. Do the diffs and transfer case too

[Chet & Marie]

Took it to my Chev dealer. Flushed trans, new fluid and filter. Changed rear end lubricant and free 169 point inspection. Ready to go for spring camping. Love my PU.

[mboy]

read the manual...it should have typcial and severe miles.