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Old 07-27-2018, 05:41 AM   #1
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Truck Help!

I need some opinion on a new pickup. First let me say i am not Brand Loyal so i want to buy the best tool for the job. I plan on pulling a 30 to 34 ft fifth wheel . With that said please provide some information on pulling ability, ride loaded and empty and any information a first timer new to the RV life needs to make a informed decision.
Thanks in advance
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Old 07-27-2018, 06:08 AM   #2
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IMO, unless you are going bigger down the road, You will likely go with the best price. I have always driven Fords but I would shop around for the best buy, they will all do the job.

Not to start a truck war but If that was what I was going to pull, I would be looking at a 3/4 ton gasser with a tow package, but thats making a lot of assumptions on my part. Drive it and get a feel for the driving comfort because you will be spending a lot of time in the cab.
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Old 07-27-2018, 06:19 AM   #3
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Before I offer my opinion I need to lead in with two things... (1)All the current 3/4 Ton (which is what you'll need at a minimum) pickups are capable. (2) I am GM loyal and most people who will weigh in on this will be brand loyal for one reason or another. That being said, here is my opinion...

The length of trailer(s) you are considering is not as important as the weight. If you are looking at "lite" models you're probably in the GVWR nieghborhood of 11k to 13k - give or take, and a 3/4 Ton pickup will likely get the job done without issue. If you are looking at luxury models its entirely possible that the same "size" trailer(s) could be 14k to 16k or more and now you are shopping for a 1 Ton truck. Also, don't forget you need to count all the weight you already have in your truck (you, your family, pets, etc.) against the available payload and remember that springs are not the only difference between weight classes of trucks, brake systems are critical to stopping your GCW.

Now, on to brand. I prefer the GM trucks, and for towing a 5th wheel I would strongly suggest you consider a diesel. In my opinion, the GM vehicles offer more creature comforts in a more astheticly pleasing package than the other brands. Pair that with a nicer loaded ride than Ford and a more reliable drivetrain than Dodge and you have a great vehicle to travel in. I feel that even the higher end packages in the Ford still feel like a work truck inside and while the Dodge's look nice I don't believe their quality is on par with GM - Also, Dodge offers about a million different builds/packages which can make selecting a vehicle a major project whereas GM (Ford too) keep it pretty simple; for example a Chevy will have trim levels LS, LT1, LT2, and LTZ. You will have double the choices with trim levels on Dodge, but Ford will be about the same.

Once you have your truck consider replacing the shocks. In my experience (limited to Fords and GM) the stock shocks are terrible and you will experience porpoising when heavily loaded. Look into a good set of Bilstiens or Rancho shocks. I am also a big fan of timbrens for load leveling purposes. They basically function like air bags except they are only engaged when the vehicle is heavily loaded so they don't impact ride quality when the vehicle is unloaded. Don't count on bags/timbrens/etc. to make up payload deficiencies, remember springs are not the only difference in truck classes.

Picking a truck to tow your RV is very much a personal decision. Don't go strictly based on what you see here. I'm sure I'll be put on blast at some point about why GMs are garbage - in my experience they have not been and have given me tens of thousands of miles of headache free travels, but I have no doubt there is someone on this board that had a lemon, or two. It happens.

As you do your research decide whats most important to you and remember that as you look at HD trucks, look at what they are made of in terms of critical components. Who makes the transmission (sure is nice having an Allison in the GM), the motor (Duramax which is really an Isuzu, Cummins, etc.), how comfotable is the interior for you - can you reach critical controls easily and does the layout work for you to operate the vehicle with little effort.

Drive each of the major brands yourself. Its a big investment, take your time and try them out and if a dealer give you a hard time about test driving a $50k+ vehicle then find a new dealer. People will swear one brand is better than other, but they are all capable trucks.
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Old 07-27-2018, 07:05 AM   #4
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How often are you planning to camp?

How many miles are you planning to travel every year?

Is this purchase to be used mainly for towing or family use as a daily driver?

Is cost a factor in determining the truck?

2 door, 4 door, 6 foot bed, or 8 foot bed?

Do you want diesel or gas?

Do you want the dually look or SRW look?


New with warranty or used?
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Old 07-27-2018, 10:31 AM   #5
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I can only give you my experience - Chevy and Ford


I had a 2005 Chevy 2500HD 6.6L 5 speed for 10 years. Bought and pulled my 2014 travel trailer for 2 year with it. Then I went shopping for a new truck - started out with 2016 Chevy 2500HD - got the run around with a few dealers on price. In one day, I drove 2 of the Chevy's and then after getting pissed at the dealer went over to the Ford dealer and drove a 2016 Ford F250 6.7L 6 speed and I couldn't believe the difference.
I had a friend once ask me about the turbo lag in my Chevy. I didn't really know what he was talking about, I said I don't really have turbo lag. When I drove those 2 new Chevy's, they felt similar to my old truck. Then when I drove that Ford, I knew exactly what turbo lag was - the Ford had no turbo lag and all the Chevy's did.

I bought a 2015 F250 the next day at that dealership. I have now been pulling my trailer (2014 Jayco 32BHDS - 35ft trailer with 2 slides ~10k pounds - bumper pull) for a couple years and love it.

I personally still like the look of the Chevy's over the Ford, but I am completely sold on the Ford powertrain over the Chevy's. The immediate torque/power that my Ford has over those Chevy's was a complete surprise to me - I would have never thought I would switch to a Ford in a million years before this truck.

I have had a few different problems with the dealerships here in Phoenix, AZ, but I had issues with the Chevy dealerships too - maybe it's me - nah, it's them.
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Old 07-27-2018, 11:16 AM   #6
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Get a 1 ton, do it right the first time. Depending upon where/how you tow, diesel or gas is the next question. Find the truck that is most comfortable for you and your family. Buy that one.
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Old 07-27-2018, 11:27 AM   #7
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Who do you love? Buying a truck is not like picking a girlfriend much more like picking a wife. Best fit depends on your unique requirements. List out as many requirements, need to haves and would like to have and come back to us. Then the opinions can fly. Each item on your list can be debated.
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Old 07-27-2018, 11:45 AM   #8
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Get a 1 ton, do it right the first time. Depending upon where/how you tow, diesel or gas is the next question. Find the truck that is most comfortable for you and your family. Buy that one.
What he said!
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Old 07-27-2018, 11:57 AM   #9
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You may want to consider a lease. If you like it, buy it at the end of the lease. If not, give it back and try another.
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Old 07-27-2018, 01:54 PM   #10
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Need more info like pin weight and GVWR of trailer. A 350/3500 will have more available payload then a 250, especially if you go diesel. The diesel can limit the payload in the 250 to just over 2000 lbs on some models.
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Old 07-27-2018, 02:08 PM   #11
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Cfisher523 is right on all accounts and not just because he is a Jersey boy...lol
It is what you need and not the brand. Compare to years ago, the truck industry has a lot of reliability amongst the brands. It is your choice....
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Old 07-27-2018, 03:53 PM   #12
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For GM trucks, the 2500/3500 SRW trucks are the same except for one leaf in the spring pack. Gas 3500s get the same rear as the diesel. The 2500 Gas has a smaller rear but you’ll run out of engine before you run out of capacity on the axel.

Depending on your state/municipality, there are possible tax/registration/insurance implications. Also, some neighborhoods and cities don’t allow 1-ton+ trucks in certain areas.

I have a 2015 GMC 2500 gasser for my 29.5 BHDS. Plenty of truck but do wish at times I had a diesel. But, given the price difference and given that it pulls the trailer fine, I can’t see splurging on the diesel. Happy to tell you more if that would help.
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Old 07-27-2018, 04:09 PM   #13
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For GM trucks, the 2500/3500 SRW trucks are the same except for one leaf in the spring pack. Depending on your state/municipality, there are possible tax/registration/insurance implications. Also, some neighborhood don’t allow 1-ton trucks at residences.

I have a 2015 GMC 2500 gasser for my 29.5 BHDS. Plenty of truck but do wish at times I had a diesel. But, given the price difference, and given that it pulls the trailer fine, I can’t see splurging on the diesel. Happy to tell you more if that would help.

We need to look at that statement. The one ton frame is substantially different than the 3/4 ton or at least in the past it has been that way. Let me know so I can apologize if I am wrong.
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Old 07-27-2018, 04:17 PM   #14
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The frames are the same on the current gen truck.
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Old 07-27-2018, 04:22 PM   #15
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Sure looks like you are correct. It appears when they went to the HD series GM made the change. Live and learn.
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Old 07-27-2018, 04:29 PM   #16
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Ford F-350 with Duallys............you'll never regret it.
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Old 07-27-2018, 04:54 PM   #17
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Thanks for the replies. I test drove a Ram with a Cummins and a Duramax today on to the Ford next week, definitely going with the diesel.
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Old 07-27-2018, 06:41 PM   #18
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Thanks for the replies. I test drove a Ram with a Cummins and a Duramax today on to the Ford next week, definitely going with the diesel.
Don't know if this was covered, but if going diesel, go 350/3500, or you will have awful low payload.
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Old 07-27-2018, 06:48 PM   #19
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As others have said, go 350/3500 right out of the gate, especially if going diesel. I made the mistake of going 2500 initially and ended up paying for it. Very happy with my Ram.
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Old 07-28-2018, 03:59 AM   #20
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For the GM and for the most part, Ford, the 250/350 and 2500/3500 classifications are just that...classifications on paper. If you travel through areas where they check weights, yes, you need to have paperwork that says you paid for a certain GVWR and possibly may have to show you have a truck with a certain rated capacity. Otherwise, the payload figures on the 250/2500 trucks are low because the GVWR is capped at 10000#s for classification purposes. Payload = GVWR - weight of the truck when ready to load. My 9 year old confirmed that if we lower the GVWR (to put the truck in a specific registration class), the payload number gets smaller. BTW, Ford let’s you spec a variety of GVWR ratings on the 350 for registration purposes. Same truck, different paperwork for the DMV.

So why not just buy the 350/3500 out of the gate? All other things equal, you should...But....

- depending on your location, 350/3500 could cost more to insure and register
- depending on your location, there may be access restrictions to parkways and residential areas with a 350/3500
- depending on your state, you may have to register as a commercial vehicle and depending on your neighborhood, you may be restricted from parking a commercial vehicle there overnight
- 250/2500s are much more plentiful, both used and new, which can impact both price and selection for used and off the lot buyers

In my personal situation, there’s little impact to me if I go 2500 or 3500 as far as rules and taxes and stuff. But where I live, finding a 3500 used is tough and finding a new 3500 with a 6.5’ bed is tough.

Caveats:
- the GM and Fords are derated; Ram uses a different rear suspension setup in the 2500 that likely has less real capacity than their 3500 setup
- 250/2500s can come with wheel and tire packages that have lower real weight ratings than the 350/3500 counterparts
- the GM and Ford 250/2500 versions do have slightly less spring capacity with the GM having one less leaf in the spring pack (not sure about the Ford, but I believe it is the same thing). Spring tweaks are relatively cheap and easy if actually needed. Many folks add Sumos or Timbrens even when within posted capacity to improve ride and/or address sagging.
- RAWR and rear tire capacity, which can be identical across the platforms, need to be watched.

Anyone shopping would be wise to check out the brand specific truck boards regarding the real differences between the model trucks. There’s MUCH better information out there than on the RV boards...IMO.

Good luck to the OP on snagging a truck. I hope you get a great deal. If going GM, you should be able to get about 18% off MSRP.
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