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Old 07-26-2013, 09:53 AM   #1
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Unhooking from WDH -- How high can TV go?

I have a 2013 F 150. The WDH is the Fastway Equalizer E-2. No problems with hooking up. My question, the way the dealer showed me to unhook, I raise the trailer as high as needed until the pressuer is off the bars and you can pull them off with just a minor pull. No need to use the lever bar. IS the normal? Sometimes the truck is quite high, just want to make sure nothing "snaps". Thanks
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Old 07-26-2013, 10:05 AM   #2
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Yep!

I always give the bars a little kick/push/shove, before I release them. That way I’m sure if there is no pressure (load) on them and to ensure there is no built up energy which could cause the bar(s) to swing out towards me as I release them. I really do not want to take the chance. I have the tool that was provided but have never used it.
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Old 07-26-2013, 10:44 AM   #3
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I have the same hitch and also raise my TV until there is no load on the bars. I did have one instance where I could not get the load off of one bar no matter how high I had the tounge....the TV was on slightly uphill grade that was sloped to one side. I used the tool to get the bar off but it's the only time I have used it.
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Old 07-26-2013, 10:56 AM   #4
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That was the same instance I had on the slope. Hate to appear stupid, but that leveage bar is great to put the WDH bars on, but to take them off, mine seems to ne non-functional, meaning there is no way to leverage the bar off...hope that makes sense.
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Old 07-26-2013, 12:37 PM   #5
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Makes absolute sense. That tool is designed as an aid to put the bars on, not take them off. I wedged the tool between the bar and the trailer frame to force the bar off the bracket.
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Old 07-26-2013, 12:51 PM   #6
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Jma3910, I have not needed to use the bar yet. But when we bought our TT, the dealer showed me how to both use the tool to remove and to install the tunnions. He made it look really easy. You may want to spend a few minutes looking at the owner’s manual or for a YouTube video on how to do it.
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Old 07-26-2013, 01:23 PM   #7
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Just for clarification...., thought I might mention that the Fastway E-2 is a specific style of WDH and shouldn't be confused with a conventional WDH that uses snap-up brackets. Each product has a different means of holding the spring bars in place when under tension.

Fastway E-2 WDH:



Conventional WDH (available in round & trunnion style spring bars):



With conventional style WDH's it is recommended that you always use the leverage bar provided to engaged and dis-engage the spring bars. Once the safety pin is removed from the snap-up bracket, always maintain a hold of the leverage bar to avoid a sudden release of the snap-up bracket. Never leave the snap-up bracket under tension without the safety pin in place.

Bob
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Old 07-26-2013, 01:47 PM   #8
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I've notice on our Reese StraitLine hitch that even with the coupler fully off the ball and the tongue jack down to unload the the trunnion bars, they still remain slightly "loaded". I unlock and drop the brackets, grip the trunnion bar I'm removing with one hand and tap the trunnion bar with a rubber mallet in the other hand. The trunnion bar pops off the cam with a little force but nothing hazardous. I wondered if there is an adjustment issue with the hitch, but since the trailer and truck are level when hitched and the trailer rides OK behind the truck, I'm inclined to leave well enough alone.
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Old 07-26-2013, 01:53 PM   #9
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Iraqvet05 hit the nail on the head. I called the tech support at Fastway. He said the cheater bar is not for removing, only for putting the bars on. Like Iraqvet95 said, you can make some space and get the tool in there and it will help remove the bar. So I have added a hammer to my tool kit. Thanks to all.

John

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Old 07-26-2013, 02:06 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thomasmnile View Post
snip..... The trunnion bar pops off the cam with a little force but nothing hazardous. I wondered if there is an adjustment issue with the hitch....snip
The Reese Strait-Line WDH is altogether a different animal with the Dual Cams (I have one). The spring bars shouldn't require a rubber mallet to remove them from the cam arm...., sounds like an adjustment issue (possible frame plate spacing). In some cases the spring bar tail may not be setting square over the cam surface, thus causing the side-edge of the spring bar tail to be held against the outer shoulder of the cam surface.

I don't want to drift to far from the OP's subject matter, so feel free to start another thread if you would like to discuss in more detail.

Reese HP Dual Cam WDH (round and trunnion style spring bars):



Bob
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