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Old 08-29-2022, 09:28 PM   #4381
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I had the exhaust manifolds replaced again along with the bolts that hood them on. The joy of owning a ram with a gas engine. About every 30K miles the warp bad enough that they start breaking bolts and end up with an exhaust leak. It’s the quality parts fiat chrysler designs their vehicles. The ram 2500’s and up with the Cummins Diesel engine have the only good engines that the trucks come with since they are made by another company.
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Old 08-30-2022, 07:32 AM   #4382
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I had the exhaust manifolds replaced again along with the bolts that hood them on. The joy of owning a ram with a gas engine. About every 30K miles the warp bad enough that they start breaking bolts and end up with an exhaust leak. It’s the quality parts fiat chrysler designs their vehicles. The ram 2500’s and up with the Cummins Diesel engine have the only good engines that the trucks come with since they are made by another company.
I'm not looking forward to that. Friend of mine has a 2016 or 17 2500 with a 5.7 gas and he has a the famous engine tick. He thinks it's the exhaust manifold. Did yours start ticking?
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Old 08-30-2022, 09:56 AM   #4383
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I'm going to do this as well to my Ford but I may go with the 5100's. Even though they're listed for lifted trucks, they work just fine for stock height and the color is a lot better, lol.

I first put 5100’s on my 3500. No lift or bigger tires. All stock. They’re back in the box and I threw on some 4600’s instead. The 4600’s gave me a nicer ride. Both were great for stability, but 4600’s just ride smoother. I think it would be different with a lift and more unsprung weight. The valving is just slightly different for the larger wheel/tire combos that typically come with a lifted configuration.

Overall though, I doubt you can wrong with either over stock on most of these trucks. Yea, the color is better on 51’s. In my case though you can only see one shock from behind the truck.
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Old 08-30-2022, 11:26 AM   #4384
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I'm not looking forward to that. Friend of mine has a 2016 or 17 2500 with a 5.7 gas and he has a the famous engine tick. He thinks it's the exhaust manifold. Did yours start ticking?
Little trick I've found to get the broken bolt out of the head is to build up the end of the stud with a mig or flux core welder until you can grab on to it and turn it out. They are nearly impossible to use an EZ-Out or to drill out while the engine is still in the truck.
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Old 08-30-2022, 12:08 PM   #4385
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Little trick I've found to get the broken bolt out of the head is to build up the end of the stud with a mig or flux core welder until you can grab on to it and turn it out. They are nearly impossible to use an EZ-Out or to drill out while the engine is still in the truck.
If you can do that, you're the man. I mig weld a bit here and there, but I know I'd weld the broken stud to the head before I'd ever build it up enough to get something on it.
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Old 08-30-2022, 12:48 PM   #4386
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If you can do that, you're the man. I mig weld a bit here and there, but I know I'd weld the broken stud to the head before I'd ever build it up enough to get something on it.
No, you would be fine. It does need a little bit of a fine touch. But, it does work if you take your time.

I've done a handful of them over the years that way.
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Old 08-30-2022, 02:53 PM   #4387
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Little trick I've found to get the broken bolt out of the head is to build up the end of the stud with a mig or flux core welder until you can grab on to it and turn it out. They are nearly impossible to use an EZ-Out or to drill out while the engine is still in the truck.
Local mechanic uses this technique to remove broken studs from nearly anywhere. He also advised if the 'ticking' persists after the exhaust is fixed, roller lifters are getting ready to blow. He's fixed Hemi's from 2011 through 2018 (mostly high mile units) but with as little as 65k miles. Pins that hold the roller in the lifter and run on the cam are in his estimation, half the size they need to be. Pin fails, or skirt of the lifter wears and spits roller out, skirt starts riding the cam until either the lifter falls into cam valley and spews broken parts all over, or the push rod falls out of rocker arm and lays over on the remaining valve train. IF a Hemi survives lifter failure, all lifters, camshaft, timing chain and oil pump should be replaced. Or maybe the whole truck, but then I'm biased.
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Old 09-05-2022, 09:08 PM   #4388
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I have a broken side window. I taped it up. Now I need to find where I can get it replace.
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Old 09-06-2022, 03:42 PM   #4389
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Installed a Backflip G2 cover. First impressions are really good. I like being being able to open it far enough to tow my fifth wheel but still cover my gen if it’s in the bed. Also, I can open and close it without getting in the bed. I’d had the same Truxedo Low Pro for 6 or 7 years. Still good, but I wanted a hard cover. Just didn’t roll up like it used to and the straps were loose from years of use. The backflip is overall much easier to operate.

Packaging of the backflip was less than stellar. The bags for the hardware were all torn open. Fortunately no lost hardware. Also, there was a dent in one of the rails. I bent that back as Beat I could. Not visible and shouldn’t effect anything.
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Old 09-06-2022, 07:40 PM   #4390
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Replaced the broken handle for the parking brake. I had my exhaust manifolds replaced again along with the broken bolts. The exhaust manifolds warp and have to be replaced about every 30k miles on the rams with the hemi.
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Old 09-07-2022, 07:01 PM   #4391
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I'm not looking forward to that. Friend of mine has a 2016 or 17 2500 with a 5.7 gas and he has a the famous engine tick. He thinks it's the exhaust manifold. Did yours start ticking?
It would tick. The ticking would be worse when the engine is cold, but not as bad when the engine warms up.

If it’s not an exhaust leak then a different engine oil could fix it. Penzoil ultra platinum seems to help chase off the tick.

If it’s not a leak and the oil recommended doesn’t help, it could be the lifters going bad. If that’s happening then the bad litter will take out the camshaft also. Hopefully it’s one of the first two.
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Old 10-15-2022, 07:08 PM   #4392
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Busy afternoon. Replaced the fuel filter, trans filter, air filter, and cabin air filter. Oil and rear diff fluid a couple days ago.

All went well today till I got lazy and didn’t disconnect the battery before pulling the MAF sensor. Then, I realized I left the filter in the truck and had to open a door… computer woke up and wasn’t pleased.

Always feel like I made some money when I do this easy stuff myself.
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Old 10-16-2022, 06:56 PM   #4393
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After 6-1/2 years, the original battery finally gave up the ghost. Also changed the headlights and factory driving lights to led. Added Hella driving lights. Had the same ones on my 2000 at the same location and was very happy with them.
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Old 10-18-2022, 05:14 PM   #4394
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Rust proof and undercoated my new GMC 2500HD.
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Old 11-23-2022, 03:03 PM   #4395
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Dropped it by the dealer yesterday for the Loose/Sagging Underbody Insulator recall. 1.5 hours and 2 rivets later it was done and ready to go.
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Old 11-23-2022, 05:02 PM   #4396
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Installed power fold / telescoping mirrors. When I bought my current TV, I didn't realize how important they were to me. I park my truck in my garage and need to fold mirrors to get it in or out.
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Old 11-23-2022, 06:35 PM   #4397
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Dropped it by the dealer yesterday for the Loose/Sagging Underbody Insulator recall. 1.5 hours and 2 rivets later it was done and ready to go.
I recently had that one done as well, along with the seatbelt carpet recall. Also inquired about the steering stabilizer but that's on national back order.
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Old 11-23-2022, 07:54 PM   #4398
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Pulled the rear wheel off and patched a leaking hole with a Slime tire plug.

The tow vehicle is my Cub Cadet riding mower, which tows my little red garden wagon. LOL

On my big tow vehicle (the Ram), I repaired all 10 front wheel lug nuts. The yayhoos at Discount tire somehow damaged the sheet metal shrouds on the lug nuts and I couldn't get the 7/8" socket on them. I tried a 15/16 and a 23mm, both too big. So I had to hammer the socket onto each nut and remove it, then clamp the socket in my vise. Had to beat the nut out of the socket with hammer and screwdriver.

Then I filed on each nut for 5 or 10 minutes to make it so the socket would fit again. What a pain in the patootie.

The rear lug nuts aren't quite as bad, but I'll probably go through all of them tomorrow.
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Old 11-23-2022, 10:04 PM   #4399
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I have the same style lugs on our F150, and the next time they give grief, I'm getting the solid chrome aftermarket lug nuts. Just a little more than half the price of the originals, and no more deforming.
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Old 11-23-2022, 10:12 PM   #4400
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I have the same style lugs on our F150, and the next time they give grief, I'm getting the solid chrome aftermarket lug nuts. Just a little more than half the price of the originals, and no more deforming.
They're cheaper? I'm going to look into that. I think I bought a few new shrouded ones for 3 or 4 bucks a few years ago.

You might check Amazon on Friday for these lug nuts.
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