Why the loooong break-away cable?

[JKyle]

I have wondered WHY is the break-away cable so long? If it is not to be tied up with the chains or wrapped around anything, yet not hang on the ground, why is it so long?

I bought one of those 6' coiled versions, but to me, it's too tight. It makes me nervous that it'll pull the pin. So, I went looking for answers as to why my original cable is so long and how exactly it is supposed to be used.

I just found my answer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eubR3ssLiOM

I only have one question. If I did ever need to rethread the end of the pin, is it okay to remove the pin, for just a couple of minutes?

[JFlightRisk]

The OE cable on our TT was too long also, and the dealer had it hooked up way wrong when we picked it up the first day. Thanks for that video. I too learned something today.

I bought a coiled one from Fastway, I think the 4' version, and it works great. To answer your question, pulling the pin for a couple of minutes won't hurt anything. Think about how long it's actually pulled out in a real breakaway situation. Probably longer than that.

When I put the coiled one on, I cut the cable leaving the loop on the pin. For the first few years I used a beefy key ring to connect the two, but they rust and I was putting a new one on all the time. Sooo, now I have a 100-year supply of stainless-steel key rings I found on Amazon. Package of 20, and have 19 left.

https://www.amazon.com/20pcs-Stainle.../dp/B09J81R53Y

[Tadsher]

Originally Posted by JKyle

I have wondered WHY is the break-away cable so long? If it is not to be tied up with the chains or wrapped around anything, yet not hang on the ground, why is it so long?

I bought one of those 6' coiled versions, but to me, it's too tight. It makes me nervous that it'll pull the pin. So, I went looking for answers as to why my original cable is so long and how exactly it is supposed to be used.

I just found my answer.

I only have one question. If I did ever need to rethread the end of the pin, is it okay to remove the pin, for just a couple of minutes?

Thanks for the video!

[Riich]

Thank you for posting that, I learned I've been doing it wrong all along.

[Camper_bob]

Great video! Makes perfect sense! And now I know I did it wrong the entire time I used my TT!!

I also recommend you pull your activation plunger every now and again to make sure it still works, and also so you know how much tension it requires.

I have a coiled one for my toad, and I've never checked how far it will stretch before pulling out the brake switch plunger...

[colby]

I put the coiled one on a few years ago and I've never had an issue with it being too tight and pulling out the pin on the breakaway switch. As long as there are coils visible after hooking up, there is play in the cable. Also, I replaced one of the license plate bolts with an eye hook bolt and I hook up the breakaway cable to that.

[craigav]

I disagree with the video and while the methods and reasonings are stated from someone who appears to have done this many times, I suggest that he is incorrect. I will add though that I am not saying the video leaves you in a bad situation, just that the video doesn't answer why the cable length is as long as it is and why the extra length is optimal and by design.

There is a reason for the extra length and in particular why you find coiled breakaway cables. This is how the setup should be.

1. The Chains should be as short as possible while allowing the trailer to turn as sharp as can be while still having some slack in the chains (a few inches). A common method is to simply twist the chain to take up some slack. Also the chains should crisscross each other in an X to keep the trailer more in alignment with the tow vehicle if the trailer comes off the hitch.
2. The trailer to tow vehicle wiring harness connection for the lights and brakes needs to be slightly longer than the chains by at least a few inches as well (~12" would be optimal). That way if the trailer comes off the ball, the chains will keep the trailer from going to far away and still allow the trailer to have braking via the trailer's connection to the tow vehicle so you can safely pull over to the side of the road.
3. This is the part where I disagree with the video, the breakaway cable needs to longer than the chains, not shorter. This is why they are often a lot longer than what seems to be reasonable (some 6 feet when uncoiled). The video says to double back, tie a knot (which you should never tie a knot in any cable) in order to keep the breakaway cable shorter than the chains which is the part I disagree with. In reality you want the breakaway cable to not engage (lock) the trailer brakes except for when there is a complete disconnect of the trailer from the tow vehicle. As long as the trailer is still connected, even if by chains only, and the trailer wiring harness connection is intact because it is longer than the chains then it is much safer for you to maintain control of the trailer's brakes via the standard operation of the brake controller or with you manually applying the trailer brakes from the controller.

Think of the effect especially if you are in a curve on a rainy day, hit a pothole, the trailer comes off the ball but still connected via the chains and the trailer brakes lock up completely vs you having the brake control. Even if you are on an interstate going straight down a dry highway, it is better that you have the trailer brake control so you can safely pull over instead of the trailer breakaway switch having control and applying the trailer brakes at full force (perhaps in a blind curve or on a long bridge with little to no shoulder and you become stuck in the lane of traffic).

The emergency breakaway brake cable should only ever engage for a complete break away scenario and as a last resort where all else has failed.

I will also add another thought, it is best not to connect the breakaway cable to the tow vehicle's hitch if at all possible and instead connect it to the frame of the tow vehicle. That way if the entire hitch breaks loose from the tow vehicle the trailer breakaway cable will still get pulled.

Just to add, the advantage of the coiled breakaway cable is to have the length needed to exceed the chains and at the same time keep the breakaway cable from touching the road surface which would damage it with time. ~CA

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by craigav

I disagree with the video and while the methods and reasonings are stated from someone who appears to have done this many times, I suggest that he is incorrect. I will add though that I am not saying the video leaves you in a bad situation, just that the video doesn't answer why the cable length is as long as it is and why the extra length is optimal and by design.

There is a reason for the extra length and in particular why you find coiled breakaway cables. This is how the setup should be.

1. The Chains should be as short as possible while allowing the trailer to turn as sharp as can be while still having some slack in the chains (a few inches). A common method is to simply twist the chain to take up some slack.
2. The trailer to tow vehicle wiring harness connection for the lights and brakes needs to be slightly longer than the chains by at least a few inches as well (~12" would be optimal). That way if the trailer comes off the ball, the chains will keep the trailer from going to far away and still allow the trailer to have braking via the trailer's connection to the tow vehicle so you can safely pull over to the side of the road.
3. This is the part where I disagree with the video, the breakaway cable needs to longer than the chains, not shorter. This is why they are often a lot longer than what seems to be reasonable (some 6 feet when uncoiled). The video says to double back, tie a knot (which you should never tie a knot in any cable) in order to keep the breakaway cable shorter than the chains which is the part I disagree with. In reality you want the breakaway cable to not engage (lock) the trailer brakes except for when there is a complete disconnect of the trailer from the tow vehicle. As long as the trailer is still connected, even if by chains only, and the trailer wiring harness connection is intact because it is longer than the chains then it is much safer for you to maintain control of the trailer's brakes via the standard operation of the brake controller or with you manually applying the trailer brakes from the controller.

Think of the effect especially if you are in a curve on a rainy day, hit a pothole, the trailer comes off the ball but still connected via the chains and the trailer brakes lock up completely vs you having the brake control. Even if you are on an interstate going straight down a dry highway, it is better that you have the trailer brake control so you can safely pull over instead of the trailer breakaway switch having control and applying the trailer brakes at full force.

The emergency breakaway brake cable should only ever engage for a complete break away scenario and as a last resort where all else has failed.

I will also add another thought, it is best not to connect the breakaway cable to the tow vehicles hitch if at all possible and instead connect it to the frame of the tow vehicle. That way if the entire hitch breaks loose from the tow vehicle the trailer breakaway cable will still get pulled.

Just to add, the advantage of the coiled breakaway cable is to have the length needed to exceed the chains and at the same time keep the breakaway cable from touching the road surface which would damage it with time. ~CA

Dang, I can totally follow this logic too!!

But I was still doing it wrong, either way...

ETA, the only time I ever had a trailer come off the ball was my boat trailer. It would be equipped with surge brakes, which means if it's off the ball, there's no brakes.

[Old and soft]

The people I know with horse trailers like to attach the chains to something attached to the truck frame incase the complete hitch comes off of the truck frame. Chain, hooks, etc bolted onto the truck frame.

[craigav]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

Dang, I can totally follow this logic too!!

But I was still doing it wrong, either way...

ETA, the only time I ever had a trailer come off the ball was my boat trailer. It would be equipped with surge brakes, which means if it's off the ball, there's no brakes.

I am not sure that what I am saying here has always been the case, but many states have laws that state a breakaway connection is required for all trailers over a certain weight if I remember correctly, (perhaps 2000 lbs) including trailers with surge brakes. All surge brakes now and for a long time (I don't know how long) have a spring loaded mechanism that is held back by a pin locking mechanism and if the pin is pulled the strong spring will engage the surge brakes. Some are different than others in this design but as an fyi if you ever test it you may find it a challenge to get the pin back in place as the spring is very strong. ~CA

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by craigav

I am not sure that what I am saying here has always been the case, but many states have laws that state a breakaway connection is required for all trailers over a certain weight if I remember correctly, (perhaps 2000 lbs) including trailers with surge brakes. All surge brakes now and for a long time (I don't know how long) have a spring loaded mechanism that is held back by a pin locking mechanism and if the pin is pulled the strong spring will engage the surge brakes. Some are different than others in this design but as an fyi if you ever test it you may find it a challenge to get the pin back in place as the spring is very strong. ~CA

Yes, I think you are correct about the breakaway for surge brakes.

My boat trailer brakes were "disabled" a long time before I bought it because it's technically not required to have brakes. I would like it to have brakes, but I'm going to install an entirely new system when I do it... You can bet I'll be paying closer attention to the breakaway system when I do...

[bankr63]

Originally Posted by JKyle

I only have one question. If I did ever need to rethread the end of the pin, is it okay to remove the pin, for just a couple of minutes?

If you are quick, you can pull it for a minute or two. If you like to make it right, I would suggest disconnecting the negative from the battery so that the switch is not active. When the pin is out it is sending a full 12v to the solenoids in the brakes. These heat up and don't have a ton of resistance so it is a big drain to the battery. Better to cut the current flow while working on the cable.

I agree with @craigav - or at least what he details is what I was taught. The pin shouldn't pull unless the trailer totally disconnects from the vehicle, and the cable should not be attached to the hitch as the hitch itself could potentially disconnect from the vehicle (after all, many are only held in place by 4 bolts). Admittedly, I don't tend to follow this second piece of advice as there just isn't anywhere convenient to attach to on my TV; I should probably add some sort of D-ring to the rear bumper support.

I did have the pin pull on my first trailer driving down a bumpy dirt road (just the pin, the trailer was hitched fine). I think it was a big rut that got the cable somehow. Not sure exactly sure how far I drove with it pulled, but the brakes were not happy when I finally stopped. Very hot and very burnt.

[stinger608]

I think everyone needs to watch this video!!!

It answers the questions on the long breakaway cables.

Plus, a ton of other items that many might not know or realize.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B7zKGggONCI&t=314s

[TaftCoach]

Never twist a chain to shorten it. Twisting a chain will weaken it, sometimes significantly, and is generally not a very good practice to get into.

[JKyle]

Originally Posted by colby

I put the coiled one on a few years ago and I've never had an issue with it being too tight and pulling out the pin on the breakaway switch. As long as there are coils visible after hooking up, there is play in the cable. Also, I replaced one of the license plate bolts with an eye hook bolt and I hook up the breakaway cable to that.

I went searching because I was wondering, too... if you're not supposed to hook it to the same place as your tow chains, where the heck do you hook it?

And here you are, giving me (us) a great idea.

Thank you!

[JKyle]

Originally Posted by craigav

1. The Chains should be as short as possible while allowing the trailer to turn as sharp as can be while still having some slack in the chains (a few inches). A common method is to simply twist the chain to take up some slack. Also the chains should crisscross each other in an X to keep the trailer more in alignment with the tow vehicle if the trailer comes off the hitch.
~CA

I know about the crossing of the chains and the reason. I always did it on my small camper and my little utility trailer.

When I bought my big camper, I noticed right away, the chains originate from the same place under the center of the tongue...not one chan left and one chain right.

There's no way to truly 'cross' them.

[JKyle]

Originally Posted by craigav

I disagree with the video and while the methods and reasonings are stated from someone who appears to have done this many times, I suggest that he is incorrect. I will add though that I am not saying the video leaves you in a bad situation, just that the video doesn't answer why the cable length is as long as it is and why the extra length is optimal and by design.

There is a reason for the extra length and in particular why you find coiled breakaway cables. This is how the setup should be.

1. The Chains should be as short as possible while allowing the trailer to turn as sharp as can be while still having some slack in the chains (a few inches). A common method is to simply twist the chain to take up some slack. Also the chains should crisscross each other in an X to keep the trailer more in alignment with the tow vehicle if the trailer comes off the hitch.
2. The trailer to tow vehicle wiring harness connection for the lights and brakes needs to be slightly longer than the chains by at least a few inches as well (~12" would be optimal). That way if the trailer comes off the ball, the chains will keep the trailer from going to far away and still allow the trailer to have braking via the trailer's connection to the tow vehicle so you can safely pull over to the side of the road.
3. This is the part where I disagree with the video, the breakaway cable needs to longer than the chains, not shorter. This is why they are often a lot longer than what seems to be reasonable (some 6 feet when uncoiled). The video says to double back, tie a knot (which you should never tie a knot in any cable) in order to keep the breakaway cable shorter than the chains which is the part I disagree with. In reality you want the breakaway cable to not engage (lock) the trailer brakes except for when there is a complete disconnect of the trailer from the tow vehicle. As long as the trailer is still connected, even if by chains only, and the trailer wiring harness connection is intact because it is longer than the chains then it is much safer for you to maintain control of the trailer's brakes via the standard operation of the brake controller or with you manually applying the trailer brakes from the controller.

Think of the effect especially if you are in a curve on a rainy day, hit a pothole, the trailer comes off the ball but still connected via the chains and the trailer brakes lock up completely vs you having the brake control. Even if you are on an interstate going straight down a dry highway, it is better that you have the trailer brake control so you can safely pull over instead of the trailer breakaway switch having control and applying the trailer brakes at full force (perhaps in a blind curve or on a long bridge with little to no shoulder and you become stuck in the lane of traffic).

The emergency breakaway brake cable should only ever engage for a complete break away scenario and as a last resort where all else has failed.

I will also add another thought, it is best not to connect the breakaway cable to the tow vehicle's hitch if at all possible and instead connect it to the frame of the tow vehicle. That way if the entire hitch breaks loose from the tow vehicle the trailer breakaway cable will still get pulled.

Just to add, the advantage of the coiled breakaway cable is to have the length needed to exceed the chains and at the same time keep the breakaway cable from touching the road surface which would damage it with time. ~CA

Now, like another poster said...this logic makes all the sense, too.

When I first saw the video I'm like 'YEAHhhhhh....makes sense, you'd want that trailer to engage those brakes if the trailer jumps off the tow ball...BEFORE the chains are engaged, in order to 'assist' an emergency stop with the chains as your anchor.

But your logic also makes sense, as you'd still have brake control IF your wiring harness is long enough.

Chains...if they're too long, how do you shorten? Who does that sort of work? Not all of us have the mechanical means to cut chain and reattach, at home.

[TaftCoach]

I've been at a worksite and we needed a chain shortened. Someone ran to Home Depot and they cut it.

[craigav]

Originally Posted by JKyle

Now, like another poster said...this logic makes all the sense, too.

When I first saw the video I'm like 'YEAHhhhhh....makes sense, you'd want that trailer to engage those brakes if the trailer jumps off the tow ball...BEFORE the chains are engaged, in order to 'assist' an emergency stop with the chains as your anchor.

But your logic also makes sense, as you'd still have brake control IF your wiring harness is long enough.

Chains...if they're too long, how do you shorten? Who does that sort of work? Not all of us have the mechanical means to cut chain and reattach, at home.

It would be better to have a little bit longer of a chain than needed vs one a little too short. The best would be of course to have the length that is not too short or too long. I would think any trailer shop could shorten the chains for you.

I will add that I have rented U-Haul trailers with too long of chains, they always twist them which I agree is not optimal but perhaps twisting them is better than dragging the chains down the road.

What I have done in the past for quick chain shortening (as I have a large bolt cutter that can cut chains) is to purchase a couple of these "quick links" (the link on the right) and install it somewhere in the chain such as where I drew the red line. That will shorten the chain without cutting it and the excess length will simply hang below. You can purchase quick links at Tractor Supply and likely a lot of other places. ~CA

[colby]

Originally Posted by JKyle

I went searching because I was wondering, too... if you're not supposed to hook it to the same place as your tow chains, where the heck do you hook it?

And here you are, giving me (us) a great idea.

Thank you!

You are welcome. I actually saw this a few years ago on a YouTube video and snitched it from there. Easier than crawling under the vehicle every time looking for a place on the frame to hook up.