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Old 09-19-2014, 11:58 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle View Post
The type of TPO roofing material in question has a "fleece" textured backing, and this particular style of TPO was used on various models in the 2000-2006 model years. Jayco during the same time period also used a EPDM rubber roofing material but it had a "smooth" surface backing.

If you remove the A/C cover from the inside of your HTT, there should some excess roofing material to inspect.

Jayco presently uses about four different types of TPO and EDPM roofing materials, none have a fleece backing.

Bob
Ok....looked but could not see any material that would identify the roof although at this point I suppose it won't matter anyways. I have checked the roof and used some dicor to hit any spots that looked suspicious. I also removed all the silicone along the top of each bunk and replaced with proflex. Did on the top of the windows and access door for shower as well. I think I may have to get some more and do all seams on the slideout side of the trailer as well. Haven't yet removed the ac unit, may do after lunch.
All the floors have dried except the area near the hot water tank. I can see no leaks and the linoleum that I left under it is dry. Could the seal around the outside be leaking? If so then what do you use there as I would suspect it needs to be high heat.
Although it is a possibility they any remaining water is still wicking out of the trailer through that section of floor... it hasn't rained here in days so really no new water has been introduced. This morning was damp though
Ugh what have I gotten myself into....
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Old 09-23-2014, 09:07 AM   #12
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Ok so after a bit of rain I checked the trailer. The back bunk end that was the area that was dripping is dry. I have replaced the seals around the storage hatch doors as well.
My next question had to do with removing a small section of floor near the front door. I am curious to know if anyone has tackled this as I don't want to damage the under skin (not sure what the name of the black wrap is). I may try to use a due grinder with a zip blade to slowly cut out. I don't understand how jayco could bolt stairs to the wood like that without any support to the frame.
I am going to add steel plate and some angle under the trailer to support that area. Then bolt the stairs through that and floor above

So what my plan is....zip out section by door (may have to remove bench seat next to it depending how far rot goes) replace with new wood to match existing floor level. Place new plywood (3/8) on top
Weld up some unistrut to under trailer to frame for extra support. I may just weld some flanges to the end of the unistrut and bolt it to frame so that I don't have to worry about burning the under skin. Anyone know if anything is run inside the frame (wiring, etc)? Then I will drill up through the unistrut into new floor above and bolt down using carriage bolts. Sink them into floor slightly and use wood putty to smoothen around bolts so they aren't visible through laminate

Any other suggestions would be great!
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Old 09-23-2014, 09:58 AM   #13
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snip.....So what my plan is....zip out section by door (may have to remove bench seat next to it depending how far rot goes) replace with new wood to match existing floor level. Place new plywood (3/8) on top
Weld up some unistrut to under trailer to frame for extra support. I may just weld some flanges to the end of the unistrut and bolt it to frame so that I don't have to worry about burning the under skin........snip
I don't have anything to add at this time...., but if you can take some pics as you proceed with your repairs and feel free to post them with any comments. I'm sure they will be helpful to others.

Bob
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Old 09-28-2014, 04:37 PM   #14
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Here is a pic of the supports I made. After jacking them up from underneath the trailer and mounting them to the frame they made a huge difference. I picked up the plywood today but ran out of time (mostly due to football) and will tackle this week. I was careful to cut out the linoleum so that I can use it as a template
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Old 10-14-2014, 07:34 PM   #15
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Branmat, sorry I have not answered sooner. I am referring to the roof seam. That seams to be where all of my leaking was coming from. We have had some serious downpours since I got it sealed and the inside has stayed dry. I am now in the process of trying to replace some of the rot, but that will be a long process.

You are doing allot of work. I like how you put the eternabond on the top of the slide. I never thought about that. I have leftover tape so I guess I will be doing the same.
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Old 10-15-2014, 12:15 AM   #16
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Branmat, sorry I have not answered sooner. I am referring to the roof seam. That seams to be where all of my leaking was coming from. We have had some serious downpours since I got it sealed and the inside has stayed dry. I am now in the process of trying to replace some of the rot, but that will be a long process.

You are doing allot of work. I like how you put the eternabond on the top of the slide. I never thought about that. I have leftover tape so I guess I will be doing the same.
No problem!

I have all the leaks under control as far as I can tell. I have had no additional water enter the trailer that I can see.

I cleaned the remaining flooring with mold and mildew killer and laid down the plywood. In some sections I could not get the screws attaching the new plywood to grab. The original wood had been wet in some spots for awhile and is just not strong nor thick enough to grab.

I also suspect that the walls may have dropped slightly. Approx 1/4-1/2". If anyone knows how they are attached to the floor it would be helpful. The floor overhangs the frame by about 12" and the walls rest on that. As far as I can see there are a whopping two 10" supports per side (one at each end) that come off the outside of the frame and sit under the walls. Then there are 2 additional 2" supports (if you could call them that) along the frame. I am going to be adding two additional supports to each side. I can't say for sure that they have as I can't seem to get an engineering drawing from jayco. I may have to just call them. I've put a square on the outside frame to underneath the floor. Problem is the outside skin wraps up underneath slightly. Apparently i need a shorter square to not have that interfere.

Just putting this all down in case this can help someone in the future.

If I could do it the way I really wanted? I would rip everything out, support the walls and cut the floor out completely. Make a deck frame on top of the trailer frame esssentially. Put the walls on to that and so on. Prob is I don't have a massive garage to pull it into for winter work nor do I have all the free time in the world as that would be an undertaking. So I am doing what I can to make it travel worthy and enjoy done camping time with my girls.
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Old 10-15-2014, 12:17 AM   #17
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Here is a pic of original wetness under linoleum
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Old 10-15-2014, 12:19 AM   #18
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And another

My apologies I have no idea why the rotation isn't correct. It is on my end.....
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Old 10-15-2014, 12:22 AM   #19
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New plywood going in
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Old 11-01-2014, 08:41 PM   #20
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New flooring started
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