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Old 05-29-2017, 01:34 AM   #1
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23B Newbie with questions

Hello all, cheers from Vancouver, BC. I just bought an used 2005 Jayfeather 23B Hybrid Trailer for my family. I am so excited about the trailer and wish to take my family out soon in this summer. Got lots of questions and ideas, please bear with me and please forgive me if my question is silly enough.

1) First, my driveway has slope which when I back up the trailer to some point, the sewer pipe at the bottom will hit the ground. Any suggestion? Is that possible to up size the tires diameter? 23B got two axles, if increases the tires size, will that be danger the chance of both tires hitting each others? Any other user have similar experience? How do you deal with it?

2) Any upgrade option for the stabilizer jacks? I found out that the stock one was not very stable.

3) Planning to put solar panel on the roof. How possible to drill on the roof? I will minimize the number of holes buy put a stainless steel angle bar frame.

4) Anyone adding a ladder to access to the roof on a hybrid trailer? Is this a stupid question?

5) The last owner includes the tow hitch with torsion bars (for weight distribution I think). He told me that I should not back up with the torsion bars attached, it's not good for the trailer (or for the hitch), I forgot what he said actually. I think that sounds very inconvenience. It means that when I arrived at the campsite and I need to back up the trailer, I need to take off the torsion bars before back in?

These are the questions I can think of now. Thank you very much.
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Old 05-29-2017, 04:44 AM   #2
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5) The last owner includes the tow hitch with torsion bars (for weight distribution I think). He told me that I should not back up with the torsion bars attached, it's not good for the trailer (or for the hitch), I forgot what he said actually. I think that sounds very inconvenience. It means that when I arrived at the campsite and I need to back up the trailer, I need to take off the torsion bars before back in?.
What's the brand of the hitch? I have an Equal-i-zer WHD with bars and backing up while connected is not an issue.

And congrats on your new trailer; fun times ahead.
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Old 05-29-2017, 04:20 PM   #3
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What's the brand of the hitch? I have an Equal-i-zer WHD with bars and backing up while connected is not an issue.

And congrats on your new trailer; fun times ahead.
It is DSP Easy-Level Equalizer Weight Distribution System. I found a newer version pdf instruction online with same setup but different part numbers.

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Old 05-30-2017, 10:22 AM   #4
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Anything that I need to remove before backing in comes off when I park to go walk into the campground office to check in.
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Old 05-30-2017, 12:09 PM   #5
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Not sure on the tire issue. How much space is between the tires now? A slight increase in tire diameter is probably fine and won't cause issues as long at they don't rub on anything or eachother. Another possible solution is to raise your trailer by flipping the axles to the underside of the leaf spring if they aren't already.

Lots of options to upgrade stabilizer jacks. Just search on Amazon for something or head to Princess Auto. There are other stabilizing options as well. We just made some of these and they work amazingly well.
http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f1...ers-37539.html

Very easy to add solar panels to the roof depending on the construction. Ours is just 3/8 plywood over trusses and I've installed 3 panels with just short 1.25 inch wood screws. Drill a small pilot hole and secure panels and then apply dicor self leveling sealant over everything.

A portable or collapsible ladder is always an option and more useful than one permanently attached. If you can find one and attach it to the studs or roof trusses it would probably be fine. Send an email to Jayco with your VIN number and ask for a structural drawing (blueprints) of your trailer. Hopefully they can help.

I don't know of any WDH that need to be removed before backing up. Someone please correct me if I am wrong....
There are many sway control devices that need to be removed though. Usually the friction bar type.

And welcome to the forum!
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Old 05-30-2017, 12:47 PM   #6
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Anything that I need to remove before backing in comes off when I park to go walk into the campground office to check in.
That's what I thought too. It sounds not right if I need to remove something before backup. Anyway, thanks. I will keep searching for the answer.
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Old 05-30-2017, 01:16 PM   #7
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Another possible solution is to raise your trailer by flipping the axles to the underside of the leaf spring if they aren't already.
How hard can this be done? Do I need to take it to shop to do? Would that be any safety issue or bad side after I raised up?

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Send an email to Jayco with your VIN number and ask for a structural drawing (blueprints) of your trailer. Hopefully they can help.
There is no email listed on Jayco.com. I tried to submit online inquiry but go through.

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I don't know of any WDH that need to be removed before backing up. Someone please correct me if I am wrong....
There are many sway control devices that need to be removed though. Usually the friction bar type.
Yes, mine has sway control too.
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Old 05-30-2017, 02:04 PM   #8
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congratulations. What kind of axle setup do you have on the 2005? Torsion, or traditional leaf springs? I suspect Torsion like I have, if so, there is no easy way to lift the suspension. I was considering larger diameter tires, I called Dexter (my frame manufacture) and they stated you needed a fist amount of room above the tires to the wheel well, and about an inch between the tires (not much space in my opinion)

Can you snug up the sewer lines a bit to keep from dragging? or how about driving over a 2x4 at the driveway entrance? Some people have also added a caster like set of wheels near the bumper.

There are lots of stabilizers on the market. I would first consider using something like X-Chocks between the wheels, this helps a lot. Also the day after arrival give the jacks another 1/4 turn to snug them back up. Also we place a small piece (6"x12") of plywood under each stabilizer to increase the surface area. You will never get all the wiggle out. Also if you have the tongue wheel, throw it out and find a block to place the tongue jack on.

For drilling through the roof, I would consider running your wires down the refrigerator vent, then drill a hole down to the floor area to run your wires. Much cleaner install, and much less likely to cause a leak.

ladder, forget it, there not built to have something like that added to the walls, they are just built way to light. I go up on my roof about twice a year, having a ladder at home is good enough. I do have a floor broom, that has a swivel head (bought at Fleet Farm) that I use to sweep off the slideout before bring it in. at 6'1" it can be challenging at times. sometimes I bring a small 2-3 step stool.

I did not look up your hitch, usually if they are just heavy steel bars, no issues backing up, if you have a shock absorber like device for sway control, you MUST remove them before backing up or they will be damaged.
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Old 05-30-2017, 02:08 PM   #9
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Hello all, cheers from Vancouver, BC. I just bought an used 2005 Jayfeather 23B Hybrid Trailer for my family. I am so excited about the trailer and wish to take my family out soon in this summer. Got lots of questions and ideas, please bear with me and please forgive me if my question is silly enough.

1) First, my driveway has slope which when I back up the trailer to some point, the sewer pipe at the bottom will hit the ground. Any suggestion? Is that possible to up size the tires diameter? 23B got two axles, if increases the tires size, will that be danger the chance of both tires hitting each others? Any other user have similar experience? How do you deal with it?

2) Any upgrade option for the stabilizer jacks? I found out that the stock one was not very stable.

3) Planning to put solar panel on the roof. How possible to drill on the roof? I will minimize the number of holes buy put a stainless steel angle bar frame.

4) Anyone adding a ladder to access to the roof on a hybrid trailer? Is this a stupid question?

5) The last owner includes the tow hitch with torsion bars (for weight distribution I think). He told me that I should not back up with the torsion bars attached, it's not good for the trailer (or for the hitch), I forgot what he said actually. I think that sounds very inconvenience. It means that when I arrived at the campsite and I need to back up the trailer, I need to take off the torsion bars before back in?

These are the questions I can think of now. Thank you very much.
Hi, and welcome!

1) isn't really a problem. There are metal skids on the back of your frame that will prevent the pipe from contacting. Still not great if you are hitting the skids however. Sometimes it is possible to avoid contact when entering the drive by approaching at an angle, and then straigtening out once your TT wheels hit the slope. Needs a wide driveway though.

Generally you will want to raise the suspension rather than just changing wheel sizes. Depending on the type of suspension (standard springs or TorFlex) the work involved will differ. On our 19H there is not a lot of space between the wheels, so adding an extra inch to each side may make the gap very tight. You also need to consider clearance inside the wheel well, increasing wheel diameter may cause rubbing of the tire.

2) Upgrade options are available, you can replace with a scissor type jack. If you are expecting rock solid stability, remember that a TT is sitting on springs and rubber. Adding an x-chock between the wheels can help.

3) Solar is fine, drilling into the roof is fine (plywood substrate) as long as you properly waterproof any intrusions.

4) A ladder is impractical on a Hybrid - it will block the bunks. I just use an extension ladder at home with the bunks closed. Carefully protect the roof where the ladder touches.

5) Probably no problem backing with the bars in place. He was probably referring to the friction anti-sway bar. What brand/type of hitch do you have? They mostly work on the same principle but have different geometry.

I don't always remove my anti-sway unless making tight backing manoeuvres. It is possible to completely close the bar and cause damage to the device in a tight turn. I found this out initially when the dealer installed mine incorrectly, and I closed it up going forward no less. Once installed correctly, I learned (using an observer) how far I could turn without interfering. I am not aware of any WDH that requires you to disconnect the round/trunnion bars for backing, but others may correct me there.

ETA: started responding on lunch break and got interrupted. I see that a lot of my information is a repeat of stuff posted since then, but should reinforce what others have said.
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Old 05-30-2017, 02:13 PM   #10
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BTW - is that Vancouver WA or Vancouver BC? Do you say "eh" or "huh"?
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Old 05-30-2017, 02:44 PM   #11
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My old house has a pretty good slope on the drive way and I never hit the sewer pipe. Used to max out the front jack trying to level if I didn't have 6-7" of blocking under it.

I've personally found the X-chocks to not make a huge difference. Mainly my issue is side to side movement, not fore-aft, but I have 4 kids who run around the 23B. I would also love some upgrades on the stabilizers. I have made some bracing that I strap in (just like those linked to upthread) but I need to make them out of pressure treated now that I know they work.

I have leaf springs on my 2016 23B, so I could do an axle flip, but already have a ton of ground clearance. The wheels are 8" apart or so. It would be a large wheel size change to make them hit each other.

I just asked for drawings for my camper on Thursday and got some dated 2012 for a generic 23B from Jayco on Friday. Seeing as they missed putting in 5 or 6 of the backer plates mentioned in the drawings when issues were addressed after one year with a warranty visit, I am a little worried about trusting the drawings.

I too have thought an installed ladder would be nice, just don't know where to stick it on a hybrid.

Never heard of spring bars that needed to come off to back up. Sway brakes, sometimes.
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Old 06-01-2017, 09:07 AM   #12
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Found a picture of my stabilizers set up.
Attached Thumbnails
14484774_10154671964358474_3775695576811574424_n.jpg  
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Old 06-02-2017, 12:35 PM   #13
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congratulations. What kind of axle setup do you have on the 2005? Torsion, or traditional leaf springs?
I dunno what I have. Will that be easy to tell if I took a pictures from the bottom of the trailer?

Quote:
Can you snug up the sewer lines a bit to keep from dragging? or how about driving over a 2x4 at the driveway entrance? Some people have also added a caster like set of wheels near the bumper.
Looks like the sewer line cannot be replaced. However, I actually think of making a ramp ladder to let the wheel climb up while the sewer pipe hitting the driveway. Will see. Thanks.
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Old 06-02-2017, 12:37 PM   #14
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BTW - is that Vancouver WA or Vancouver BC? Do you say "eh" or "huh"?
Vancouver BC
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Old 06-02-2017, 12:46 PM   #15
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I just asked for drawings for my camper on Thursday and got some dated 2012 for a generic 23B from Jayco on Friday. Seeing as they missed putting in 5 or 6 of the backer plates mentioned in the drawings when issues were addressed after one year with a warranty visit, I am a little worried about trusting the drawings.
Can I have their email address? I want to ask for the drawing for my TT too. Thanks.

Quote:
I too have thought an installed ladder would be nice, just don't know where to stick it on a hybrid.
I was thinking to put a ladder beside the awnings. Just like the picture below. But probably need to find the right one, or something retractable is the best.

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Old 06-02-2017, 12:47 PM   #16
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Found a picture of my stabilizers set up.
Nice!
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Old 06-02-2017, 12:49 PM   #17
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I dunno what I have. Will that be easy to tell if I took a pictures from the bottom of the trailer?
It is really easy to tell by a photo.

A torsion suspension system looks like a cantilevered arm that the wheels attach to.

Leaf suspension, has a series of flat bars the axle attaches to that flex, similar to many pickup trucks rear suspension.

But we can tell you what you have for sure with a photo
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Old 06-02-2017, 01:25 PM   #18
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Just measured the distance between my tires. It has about 3-3.5 inches gap only. Feel like I don't have an option to up size the tires.

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Old 06-02-2017, 01:28 PM   #19
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Can someone tell what kind of axle setup I have by looking at these pictures? If not, where should I look at? Thanks.




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Old 06-02-2017, 01:45 PM   #20
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that is a Torsion axle. They are much harder to create a lift for them. A good welding shop might be able to it, as will have to create a sub-frame that mounts under the existing frame.

Edit: I just went back and checked my notes;

When I looked at bigger tires for my HTT, Dexter said all I needed was 1.5" between the wheels , They said 3 inches above the wheels to the wheel well
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