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Old 04-03-2012, 10:35 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by RustyFairmount View Post
....For what it's worth, there are some easy mods that can be done to make draining externally a snap. Check out: http://www.modmyrv.com/2009/12/11/rv...er-drain-valve
Atwood is adamant not to use metal drain plugs. I suspect they are concerned of the metals creating a galvanic weld over time. I know many do it without problems, but I stick to the recommended nylon plug.

I only drain the tank annually. I have yet to have an issue with "stinky" water after many weeks of non-use.

It can't hurt to drain more often, just keep some spare plugs on hand if they leak after several uses.
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Old 04-04-2012, 03:43 PM   #12
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I drain my water heater before I head home. I open the 2 valves (low point drain) that are near the water heater. The "hot" valve only drains a small amount of water, but it allows air to enter the water system so the water in the water heater can drain out of the "cold" water line. When I get home I close the valves.
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:26 PM   #13
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I got tired of fighting the drain plug in the tight space that it's in so I made this small modification and it has really made draining the water heater easier. I just added a PVC ball valve to the drain hole. I had to use a 45 degree fitting to get the valve to clear the gas line in the compartment. Now I just open the hatch and open the valve and drain the heater...when it's empty I close the valve and it's ready for the next refill. Click the pic for a larger view.

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Old 04-09-2012, 10:37 PM   #14
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We live in our trailer a lot. I drain the hot water tank about 3 times a year.
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:06 PM   #15
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kd&jd- Great idea-- I will be on that this weekend especially since I need to change the metal plug with the anode that came with the atwood heater that they say shouldn't be there & that I don't need HELLO ----Larry
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:32 PM   #16
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kd&jd- Great idea-- I will be on that this weekend especially since I need to change the metal plug with the anode that came with the atwood heater that they say shouldn't be there & that I don't need HELLO ----Larry
Larry, when you do this little project make sure you stick everything together just as it will be in the finished state before you glue it. The difference between the valve being too short to clear the gas line and being too long to allow the hatch to close is very small so you may have to cut your PVC pipe 2 or 3 times to get it just right. Once it fits and you can both work the valve and close the hatch then glue it. Also, make sure you use the PVC that is rated for hot water, some is not. Good luck!
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:13 PM   #17
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KD& JD Tx for the heads up Larry
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Old 04-15-2012, 08:10 PM   #18
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Hey there, I'm really interested in where and or how to refill my hot water tank. I had it winterized at the dealer, took it out this weekend for the first time after winteriszing. No hot water. I read all the manuals and owners manul, nothing at all says how to fill it. Only says how to drain it, and the relief. And I think mine is new, 2011, I don't believe I have to lit a pilot? Hence, dry as a bone, I hope I didn't fry the electrical board? With the dealer and manufacturer being closed on the weekends, any suggestions?
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Old 04-15-2012, 09:11 PM   #19
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Check the bypass. You need to close it and open the other two valves so water can fill the tank.
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Old 04-15-2012, 09:29 PM   #20
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I agree with Mike - sounds like your bypass valves on the back of the water are closed. It is possible you could have fried the element, but there probably was enough water in there you are ok. Worst case you will have propane heated water....your electrical board should not fry.
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