Battery, electrical question

lfcave · 09-19-2017, 01:38 PM

Up front, I am a failure at figuring out electrical problems. That said, does anyone have an answer to my non-emergency quandary?
My trailer hibernates at son-in-law and daughter's house between our adventures. We brought it home yesterday to get ready for a 3 week trip.
I tried to turn on the lights using the general switch by the door. No lights. Checked battery level and it was at 3/4 on the panel. My first thought was the battery fuse had blown but it was OK.
So I plugged the trailer into house current and everything worked.
Would the battery not being full be the cause for nothing working off the battery. Or should I look for another reason nothing worked.

**norty1** · 09-19-2017, 02:29 PM

Can you leave it plugged in and charge the battery. Do you have a way toi disconnect the battery between trips when it's sitting idle. The battery has parasitic loads on it if it's not disconnected and your battery may be discharged.

The converter when plugged up to 120v may bring it back up.

travelingjw · 09-19-2017, 03:15 PM

Follow Norty1 suggestion. But if you want a quicker solution, put a multi-meter across the battery after you disconnect it from the trailer, see what the voltage is. The one concern I have, after you follow Norty1 suggestion, make sure you check it again after 12 hours. While you may be able to charge the battery, it may not hold the charge. I also suggest you purchase a trickle charger; batteries don't do well if they just sit for long periods of time. What ever you do, don't wait until the day before you leave

.

bankr63 · 09-19-2017, 03:19 PM

Let it sit for 24 hours, then disconnect shore power and try the switch and battery level again. If it shows full and the lights work, then your battery was too drained to power the lights. In that case, to prevent future occurrences install a battery disconnect as norty1 suggests, or simply pull the main fuse located on the positive battery cable at or near the box. Don't forget to replace the fuse when you are ready to go again.

If your lights still don't work, then there is something wrong on the battery supply side; most probably a main fuse or loose connection at the battery or where the neutral wire connects to the frame.

lfcave · 09-19-2017, 06:29 PM

Thanks for suggestions and advise. It will help in the future.

I plugged the trailer into house current for about 6 hours and all of the items that are to work on battery work now.
I have a sneaking suspicion that my 7 and 4 year old granddaughter kids sneek the trailer keys, turn on the pump, and use the trailer as an outdoor bathroom because I have found the the pump on and the door unlocked more than once. I think that drained the battery enough to so it wouldn't power the lights.

**Mustang65** · 09-20-2017, 08:38 AM

As mentioned earlier, you need a disconnect switch. There are a few other items that you need for basic 12VDC testing:
- A Volt/Ohm digital meter (Walmart between $8 - $25)
- A Digital Voltage Display for 12VDC accessory plug (Amazon - see below)
- A Digital Voltage Display for 110VAC outlets. Lets you know what the voltage is from the CG.

The LED display that comes with the TT's are useless.

With the Digital Voltage Display you will know exactly the voltage status of your 12Volt battery(s). When the display voltage drops to 12VDC you need to stop using the 12VDC system.

Don

My Registry

RVing with SOLAR

NVGun40 · 09-20-2017, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lfcave

Thanks for suggestions and advise. It will help in the future.

I plugged the trailer into house current for about 6 hours and all of the items that are to work on battery work now.
I have a sneaking suspicion that my 7 and 4 year old granddaughter kids sneek the trailer keys, turn on the pump, and use the trailer as an outdoor bathroom because I have found the the pump on and the door unlocked more than once. I think that drained the battery enough to so it wouldn't power the lights.

Keep in mind, as has been mentioned. When your trailer is just sitting, even with everything turned off, there are still parasitic drains against the battery. The Co2 detector, the radio, etc. have a constant draw. This is why people recommend a battery cutoff switch or they pull the main fuse. Those that can, also leave the trailer plugged in to shore power.

Jagiven · 09-20-2017, 12:47 PM

If the TT is in storage, not being used, and not plugged into an outlet. There are a number of parasite power drains on the system. So it is critical to disconnect the battery while in storage. I do not have a disconnect switch. For me I pull the battery cover off, and pull the 30 amp fuse at the battery. The battery can stay charged for many months when not connected to anything.

As for a key at the kid's place, might need to bring it home or put it up where they cannot get it.! Hate to say it but it sounds like the grandkid's need a little discipline.

lfcave · 09-22-2017, 02:53 PM

You could be right on the grandkids. My only excuse is that they consider it a 2nd home and love going in it. ��

ALJO · 09-22-2017, 04:33 PM

RV's are definitely no toys for kids. It also can be costly when they ruin your battery by fully discharging it. Also it has propane onboard. You'll never forgive yourself if something happens to them. Lock it!

sobuck1 · 09-22-2017, 04:57 PM

sorry to jump the post was wondering if anyone has ever had their coach light flicker while water pump is running any help will be great thanks

rodro123 · 09-23-2017, 04:49 AM

You can install a battery disconnect switch. That way when the kids take the keys the TT will be dark but you will have a full battery. The deep cell battery will loose a little run time each time you run them under 50%. But keep in mind the cost for a new battery is only $100 BUCKS. You could install a small solar panel to keep the battery always charged for $30. Like this one
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

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