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10-27-2011, 03:05 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Slidell
Posts: 49
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flat tire jack, whats type is best
Day 4 of playing with my new camper in the driveway and the next thing on my list of "must have" is tire jack. My brother (long time camper) suggest a bottle jack. Sounds good, tt should never weight more than 5000lbs, but is that the best choice. And where do you place the jack under the tt, frame or axle? I am naturally trying to keep the weight down, but also be safe.
Kirk
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10-27-2011, 03:14 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Houston
Posts: 2,526
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From everything I've read, you should place the jack under the frame close to the axles. I'd err on the side of conservatism and get a bottle jack that will handle 6k lbs.
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Mike, Sue, Sissy and Little Man
2015 Ford F350 Lariat FX4 6.7 CC DRW
2015 Eagle Premier 351RSTS
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10-27-2011, 03:42 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 371
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In the past I have used the jack from the truck. It is rated for the truck fully loaded and it has worked very well. It somewhat suprised me.
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10-27-2011, 09:48 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: North Idaho/Arizona
Posts: 5,446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlfeather
In the past I have used the jack from the truck. It is rated for the truck fully loaded and it has worked very well. It somewhat suprised me.
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X2.
If your trailer is 5,000 lbs you are not jacking up the entire weight. One side would be 2,500 lbs and the hitch is still supporting at least 500 lbs so a 2000 to 2500 lb jack will do it. If your trailer has two axles then the other tire on that side will support some of the weight. Your truck jack would be perfect. I lift my trailers by the spring hangers under the end of the axle. If you try and lift it from the frame you may need a tall jack and lots of blocks.
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2011 Eagle 330RLTS with just about every option.
2017 Silverado 1500 4x4 5.3 with tow package. (no, we don't tow the Jayco with it.)
2018 Surveyor 265RLDS well equipped.
Life in the slow lane is still life.
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10-28-2011, 02:50 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Maplesville - Home Base
Posts: 3,059
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I carry a floor jack with a removable 2 piece handle. It is easier to use for my truck than the OEM truck jack also.
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Ed
KM4STL
2006 GMC 2500HD CCSB 4x4 Duramax/Allison, Titan 52 gallon fuel tank, Prodigy Controller, B&W Companion Hitch
2010 Jayco Designer 35RLTS, Cummins/Onan RV QG 5500 EVAP, Progressive Industries EMS-PT50X, TST Systems 507 TPMS, RV Flex Armor Roof
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10-28-2011, 06:01 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 148
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I bought a floor jack from Harbor Freight ( Aluminum racing jack,) cost around $60.00 and are fairly light. I place the jack under the axle I want to remove the tire, be sure and block the tires well, better yet leave hitched to tow vehicle. Another good investment is a 4 way lug wrench, or a 1/2 socket drive breaker bar and socket sized to the lug nut. Also on some wheels, Jayco is installing have a special lug nut, so read the directions on how to remove.
Speaking of lug nuts, be sure and tighten them, a long time ago I learned a lesson about loose lug nuts, we lost a tire on our way to Myrtle Beach, luck was with us, as the free rolling tire did not hit anything. I now have a torque wrench and always check the lug nuts.
Hope you have many flat free trips!!
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10-28-2011, 06:13 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: East Bethel, Minnesota
Posts: 732
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I do not use a jack. I use my "lego blocks" used to level the trailer as a ramp. Drive or back up the trailer on to the ramp built from the level blocks and the other tire will be off the ground enough to change.
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HAPPY CAMPING!! :D
Daryl and Sandy
2013 Eagle 314BDS
2014 Ford F150 Platinum, 4 x 4 Crew Cab with Ecoboost
Equal-i-zer Hitch
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10-28-2011, 09:14 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Maplesville - Home Base
Posts: 3,059
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I also bought an aluminum frame floor jack from the same place as buckeyejim . I got the larger one, 3 ton, so it was $199.00 and heavier, but I have a large 5'er also. Probably overkill, but I know it will work. I did have to use it the other day to jack up a friend's tree that he had cut down. It was a large tree and he got his chain saw bar caught. I don't know what the tree weighed, but this jack worked like a champ.
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Ed
KM4STL
2006 GMC 2500HD CCSB 4x4 Duramax/Allison, Titan 52 gallon fuel tank, Prodigy Controller, B&W Companion Hitch
2010 Jayco Designer 35RLTS, Cummins/Onan RV QG 5500 EVAP, Progressive Industries EMS-PT50X, TST Systems 507 TPMS, RV Flex Armor Roof
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10-28-2011, 08:11 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Missouri City, The Republic of Texas
Posts: 5,063
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I have a bottle jack that I got from HF. I also have the "lego blocks". Haven't used either to change a flat, yet. However, when backing into our drive if I get one wheel a bit on the curb it will lift the other wheel off the ground. I'm surprised at how little lift is needed to get one wheel off the ground. I expect if (when) I need it, the Lego block is what I will use first. I also plan to carry the jack, just in case.
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Cheers,
T_
2013 F-350 CC SB 2WD 6.7PS
2013 Eagle Premier 351 RLTS
-SOLD- 2012 X23B
-SOLD- 2003 Ford Expedition 5.4, Bilstein shocks
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11-04-2011, 03:47 AM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 87
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I use a Trailer Aid. Well haven't used it yet but have seen it used. It took half the time of using a jack and is safe. The investment was about 45-50 dollars. It is stored in one of the lower storage bins. Well....well worth having.
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2011 GMC Sierra Denali
2011 StarCraft EXP 237CKS
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11-04-2011, 09:58 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: SW Ontario
Posts: 1,393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OurJayco
I do not use a jack. I use my "lego blocks" used to level the trailer as a ramp. Drive or back up the trailer on to the ramp built from the level blocks and the other tire will be off the ground enough to change.
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x2, but mine is a stack of two 2x8 wood beveled on each end. Simple and cheap, works fine for tandem axle.
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2013 Jayco Eagle 31.5RLDS
2018 Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
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11-16-2011, 01:46 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 248
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I found an old scissors jack in a car being junked. Now have it in the bottom of the camper with a 4 way lug wrench. Hope it will work if I ever need it. Just hope to never need it.
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12-05-2011, 12:26 AM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtkeg15
I use a Trailer Aid. Well haven't used it yet but have seen it used. It took half the time of using a jack and is safe. The investment was about 45-50 dollars. It is stored in one of the lower storage bins. Well....well worth having.
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X2
These work great. I also use mine when changing the oil on my minivan or just doing work under the car.
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12-05-2011, 08:46 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Denver
Posts: 148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by campingva
I found an old scissors jack in a car being junked. Now have it in the bottom of the camper with a 4 way lug wrench. Hope it will work if I ever need it. Just hope to never need it.
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A word of caution - i used a "car scissors jack" on a 4700 lb boat/trailer. Jack went up fine but buckled when loosening the lug bolts. I am not sure there is enough lateral strength in that type of jack. just my experience....
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Gma-n-Gpa
2017 Precept 31 UL
2006 Ranger Reata 1850
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee
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12-05-2011, 09:27 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Saskatoon Sask Canada
Posts: 10,726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gma-n-Gpa
A word of caution - i used a "car scissors jack" on a 4700 lb boat/trailer. Jack went up fine but buckled when loosening the lug bolts. I am not sure there is enough lateral strength in that type of jack. just my experience....
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this looks like a good place to insert this...
Always loosen the lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground (Just 3/4 turn is all that is needed) lift the vehicle finish removing the wheel put the new one on snug up the lug nuts put the vehicle on the ground and do the final tighten...
this will prevent you from accidentally knocking the vehicle off the jack...
OK safety sermon over
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Seann
2004 Chev Silverado Duramax optioned past the max. 2009 Jayco Eagle 308 RLS 900watts of solar, Lithium batteries (400amp hour), 2000 watt (4000 surge) whole house inverter.
145days /2023 2022/151 2021[/COLOR]
93/2020,157/2019219/2018 206/2017,215/2016, 211/2015, 196/14, 247/13, 193/12
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12-05-2011, 09:34 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Waukesha
Posts: 608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edatlanta
I carry a floor jack with a removable 2 piece handle. It is easier to use for my truck than the OEM truck jack also.
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I also keep a floor jack in the bed of the pick-up and a pair jack stands. You never know if they will be needed. Also a 4-way lug wrench.
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Rod and Linda
SE Wisconsin
2018 330RSTS
2015 Silverado 2500
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12-05-2011, 09:37 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Denver
Posts: 148
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Excellent point - My practice has been to use the jack just enough to reduce the weight on the lug nuts and lug bolts so the weight of the trailer does not rest on point of contact between wheel and lug bolt. But keep enough weight on the tire to keep from rocking the trailer (no pun intended) when loosening the lug nuts. And of course wheel chocks are always a required safety device. Guess my point was and is, not all "car scissors jacks" will be strong enough for all trailers - exercise caution.
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Gma-n-Gpa
2017 Precept 31 UL
2006 Ranger Reata 1850
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee
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12-05-2011, 11:07 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: North Idaho/Arizona
Posts: 5,446
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I carry an old Toyota Carolla jack for my Rhino but the jack in my one ton Dodge will lift one axle of the trailer. You are correct, all scissors jacks are not equal.
__________________
2011 Eagle 330RLTS with just about every option.
2017 Silverado 1500 4x4 5.3 with tow package. (no, we don't tow the Jayco with it.)
2018 Surveyor 265RLDS well equipped.
Life in the slow lane is still life.
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