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Old 07-19-2019, 02:36 PM   #1
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Floor going away

Well it seems to be happening, that dreaded spongy floor issue. It seems the floor is discoloring and getting very soft. Almost afraid to walk on it. All of this is at the rear bunk of our 23B and goes into the bathroom.

Any suggestions on where to look to see where this problem is coming from? We have never used the bathroom. Floor was a little soft when we bought it but is getting much worse.


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Old 07-19-2019, 04:00 PM   #2
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Sounds like it might be a small leak at one of the bathroom fittings. If you were to leave your water pump on would it run every now and then when you're not using any water?
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Old 07-19-2019, 06:50 PM   #3
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You didn't post the year of your RV.

My guess is water damage. Helped fix one a few years ago on an Airstream. Water got into the flooring by the door.

We removed the vinyl floor with a zip knife, cut the floor well into good wood then cut a piece of marine plywood to fit the hole. We then took 1X4 pieces and put them under the floor to stabilize all the joints and screwed them to the old floor then the new one.

Covered it up with a nice vinyl plank in the whole living room and it looked and walked like new.
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Old 07-19-2019, 07:22 PM   #4
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We removed the vinyl floor with a zip knife, cut the floor well into good wood then cut a piece of marine plywood to fit the hole. We then took 1X4 pieces and put them under the floor to stabilize all the joints and screwed them to the old floor then the new one.
I believe that's a hybrid, so it probably has a foam sandwich flooring, something not easily repaired with a piece of plywood.
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Old 07-19-2019, 08:18 PM   #5
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The dealer says stiffeners combined with sandwich type flooring is often the cause.

Adding stiffeners is over $1,000

Floating a hardwood floor is about $300


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Old 07-21-2019, 08:19 AM   #6
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I've just finished repairing the floor on my X19H (2011).

First order of business is to confirm there is a leak. For this I used a moisture meter designed for checking building material moisture (wood or concrete). It has two little metal probes that stick into the material and measure the electrical resistance. This does leave some tiny "bite" marks in the walls and flooring, so be discrete where you use it - inside cabinets, behind curtains, corners and edges of the floor. Using this I was able to map out where the water was wicking under the vinyl, and follow the wet path up the wall. Since the wet went above the bunk door, I was able to determine that the door was not the culprit. If your source is a leaking toilet flange, then the water footprint will probably point that way, and you won't find any excess moisture in the walls.

Second order of business is to stop the leak. No use repairing if it is just going to keep leaking. In my case, I sealed the back seam of the roof membrane and around the marker lights. I also added a strip of Eternabond over the new caulk on the roof edge (belt and suspenders). I am 90% certain that the leak is gone, but I still monitor with the probe to be sure.

Once the leak was taken care of, I then started work on the floor. In my case I pulled up the vinyl flooring in the affected area, and pulled out all the water damaged plywood. The foam core beneath was very wet as well. Since it was late fall, I decided to leave the floor open for the winter with a few big tubs of damp rid. Come spring, everything seemed pretty dry. Note, in my case (and probably yours based on the description) I was unable to work from below as this is directly over the black tank. I was able to add a bit of additional bracing from below where I could work around the tank, but my fix would have been better if I had better access.
I did make the decision NOT to completely deconstruct the floor; see older posts here from member @scott91370 links here https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...lly-51661.html for a full off restoration. My work space and time are limited (street in front of my house) and the trailer is already 8 years old; if my repairs last another 8, I'll be happy. I do understand that the bottom layer of the sandwich is still bad wood but the top is sturdy enough, and the area is dry now.

So fixing was relatively simple from that point. I squared up the area that had been damaged and added in fresh subfloor of the same thickness as the prior floor. In my case I had to deconstruct the back inside wall under the bunk and remove the electrical center. Attachment of the subfloor was PL Premium to the aluminum subframe and a few zip screws. I then refloored most of the trailer with a nice vinyl plank flooring. I did raise the sofa, dinette and most of the cabinetry so that I could run the floor beneath.

Happy with the end results. The floor is still a little "soft" in that area but much firmer than it was and the sag in the floor is gone. I'll see how the repair holds up over time. If it fails again quickly I might end up dropping the black tank and tearing out the entire floor, but with no water getting in there, I am fairly confident that it will last for the useful life of the trailer. The entire process took me about 3 weekends 1 in the fall, and 2 in the spring.

A few photos:

Peeling back the floor to expose the mess:


New subfloor. Note that there is new bracing under the stairs so the front foot inside the door is now very firm. The area back around the tool box is a still a little spongy as there was little structure there and the black tank is directly below (toilet is just other side of the wall).


New vinyl flooring. Back cabinets were next to get rebuilt. Needed a bit of adjustment as the floor is slightly thicker. The flooring runs under the kitchen cabinetry to the right.


Flooring runs under the dinette, but I did not remove the fridge or furnace, so those are butt seams. Quarter round to follow.


Flooring ran under the sofa far enough to not have a visible edge:


One other warning. When SWMBO first walked into the trailer after completion she gasped with delight. The next words out of her mouth were "oh now we need to paint, and change all draperies, and the cushions..."
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Old 07-24-2019, 05:43 PM   #7
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Is the flooring still that Luann stuff in the 2018s and up?
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Old 07-26-2019, 01:02 PM   #8
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I've just finished repairing the floor on my X19H (2011).
I did the same on my 2007. If I wasn't cheap I'd pay for a service that I can host/post pics from. I have a thread for the floor and one for the roof/ceiling repairs that I did but those pics too have been replaced with markers saying I'm cheap.
It is a pretty good deal of work but well worth it. Take lots of measurements and pictures (for water lines & wiring).
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Old 07-29-2019, 05:07 AM   #9
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UPDATE, There is now something oozing out of the floor that looks just like GOO GONE. It is slimy and oily, any help here?
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Old 07-29-2019, 06:42 AM   #10
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Pump does not run when not in use. Thank you.
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Old 07-29-2019, 06:46 AM   #11
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Great job on floor and helpful idea on moisture meter. Think I have a big project at end of camping season. Thanks.
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Old 07-29-2019, 07:18 AM   #12
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You did not say what year is your unit???
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Old 08-07-2019, 12:07 PM   #13
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No, pump does not cycle when not in use.
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Old 08-07-2019, 01:10 PM   #14
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Our new Eagle 2018, 322rlok has/had a squeaky floor in the bedroom and hallway. This unit was only 4 days old. Dealer found that the subfloor was not supported properly. That's not all, the nose cap was faded and had to be repainted.
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Old 08-07-2019, 06:17 PM   #15
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We discovered soft spots in the middle of the floor in our 2016 Alante within a week of taking delivery. After several trips to the dealer, Jayco said to replace the entire floor. That foam sandwiched between thin sheets of luan is definitely tricky.
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Old 08-08-2019, 04:21 AM   #16
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I too am noticing a soft floor by the door and near the sink of our TT. It is a coachman. I am going to take it in next April for inspection and see whats going on. I am also going to have them fix the refrigerator door that does not want to stay on. Ours is a Coachman. I love it but weird the flooring feels weird. One more trip for Labor Day and then maybe a local RV site for Halloween. Happy Trails.
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Old 08-08-2019, 06:16 AM   #17
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No, pump does not cycle when not in use.
So this would say it is probably not a fresh water leak. Even a small drip will cause the pump to "burp" on every 30 minutes or so to restore the pressure lost. If it's not on the "supply" side, then that leaves the "waste" side or the trailer envelope.

In the bathroom area there are a couple of areas that might leak in the plumbing. It could be a bad seal on the toilet flange, shower drain or surround, or sink drain. Look for signs of moisture around all of these areas. Although the area is around your bathroom, I am still likely to be suspicious of the trailer envelope. There are just so many areas that water can penetrate.

And I have absolutely no idea what the goo gone like stuff is, but I would be washing my hands after handling it!
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Old 08-08-2019, 07:15 AM   #18
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No, pump does not cycle when not in use.
I had a leak at one of my tail lights. The water came off the roof and splashed on the tail light, got behind it, and came out onto my floor. In my case I had to remove an access panel under my rear bunk to see where it was coming in.

I removed the light and put silicone behind it where it mounted to the trailer. I also put silicone around the lens--no more problems!
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Old 08-08-2019, 03:33 PM   #19
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We discovered soft spots in the middle of the floor in our 2016 Alante within a week of taking delivery. After several trips to the dealer, Jayco said to replace the entire floor. That foam sandwiched between thin sheets of luan is definitely tricky.
Are you sure you don’t have a plywood floor in your Class A? I thought the sandwich floor was reserved for the ultra lites?
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