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Old 07-08-2024, 08:10 AM   #1
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Hitch coupler failure

Yesterday, when I parked my 2021 X17Z at the storage place, the hitch detached when I backed it up into its spot. The safety pin was in place and locked. The TT did have to go up a step onto the concrete floor with a bit of a very short gravel ramp.
I wondered in retrospect whether the coupler had been seated properly, even though it was locked. I had towed it successfully for 50 minutes, but it shocked a few times.
Is there any adjustment to be made to the hitch or its locking mechanism?

Usually, when I hitch it on, it won't lock immediately, but I have to pull up a little.
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Old 07-08-2024, 08:16 AM   #2
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I am not sure of adjustments, some have a locknut under the latching mechanism that you could check.

Are you using the correct ball? Sometimes someone will mistakenly use a 2" Ball when the coupler is designed for a 2-5/16" Ball and that could cause what you had happen. ~CA
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Old 07-08-2024, 09:19 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by craigav View Post
I am not sure of adjustments, some have a locknut under the latching mechanism that you could check.

Are you using the correct ball? Sometimes someone will mistakenly use a 2" Ball when the coupler is designed for a 2-5/16" Ball and that could cause what you had happen. ~CA
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Old 07-08-2024, 09:47 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by craigav View Post
I am not sure of adjustments, some have a locknut under the latching mechanism that you could check.

Are you using the correct ball? Sometimes someone will mistakenly use a 2" Ball when the coupler is designed for a 2-5/16" Ball and that could cause what you had happen. ~CA
I made this same mistake about 13 years ago, and scared the crap out of me when I got home. Purchased a new trailer from the factory in Indiana took the salesmen's word for it that it was 2" and drove to east of Toronto Ontario.
While backing into driveway trailer popped off the ball and chains was the only thing stopping it from rolling down the drive,
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Old 07-08-2024, 12:20 PM   #5
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Twice, I have put the hitch on the ball and it did not sit correctly. Visually looked good. I was able to latch the coupler lock with no issues. I only noticed it was not secured when I lifted the tongue to apply the wdh bars.
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Old 07-08-2024, 12:32 PM   #6
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I made this same mistake about 13 years ago, and scared the crap out of me when I got home. Purchased a new trailer from the factory in Indiana took the salesmen's word for it that it was 2" and drove to east of Toronto Ontario.
While backing into driveway trailer popped off the ball and chains was the only thing stopping it from rolling down the drive,
Makes me think! I do have a 2" ball.

However, I have towed it now for three seasons...
I have asked Jayco Towables support whether they know (they should!)
Another option might be to replace the latch.
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Old 07-08-2024, 12:40 PM   #7
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Double check. My big cousin 23B is a 2 5/16 ball. I believe right behind the latch is a note for the ball size. Unfortunately my note is covered with a bubble level.
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Old 07-09-2024, 02:22 PM   #8
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Makes me think! I do have a 2" ball.

However, I have towed it now for three seasons...
I have asked Jayco Towables support whether they know (they should!)
Another option might be to replace the latch.
If you had a 2" ball the whole time, you played roulette every time, you just didn't find the loaded chamber till now.

Coulda Woulda Shoulda. I'd think it'd be easier to just go look at it. It'll be marked what size ball to use.

Your comment about having to lift up slightly when hitching makes me think the locking tongue bit is all the way loose but as always, pictures are worth 1000 words.
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Old 07-10-2024, 01:04 PM   #9
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If you had a 2" ball the whole time, you played roulette every time, you just didn't find the loaded chamber till now.

Coulda Woulda Shoulda. I'd think it'd be easier to just go look at it. It'll be marked what size ball to use.

Your comment about having to lift up slightly when hitching makes me think the locking tongue bit is all the way loose but as always, pictures are worth 1000 words.
I am attaching some pictures.

My hitch does indeed say 2".
I am showing the bottom view with latch closed and latch open.
I didn't mean that I have to lift anything up: just that I need to pull up (forward) with the TV. The latch opens and closes smoothly if the ball is not inserted. With the ball inserted it takes effort. I don't understand that. The nut under the latch is tight.

What I noticed, though, is that the geometries of the hitch and the ball mount don't allow for a pitch difference between the two of more than about 15 degrees. I suspect that that was what forced the ball out of the hitch when I backed the TT up that ramp. Should I look for a ball with a longer neck?
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Old 07-10-2024, 01:41 PM   #10
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I would say by the wear marks on the top-rear of the ball and the bottom of the latch that it has been run at least once with the ball out of the pocket.
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Old 07-10-2024, 01:51 PM   #11
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Here is an article with very succinct information. The article isn't exact for your hitch as you have a locking plate for the nut and that would have to be pressed away from the nut in order to tighten it. Also, check for a bent bolt that the nut is attached to and replace any worn or bent parts as needed. (I have replaced similar parts on a smaller trailer although I am not sure where to suggest you order from, perhaps Dexter. There may be a manufacture listed that I couldn't see in your images.) ~CA


https://www.fieldandstream.com/artic...upler-minutes/
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Old 07-10-2024, 07:44 PM   #12
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Here is an article with very succinct information. The article isn't exact for your hitch as you have a locking plate for the nut and that would have to be pressed away from the nut in order to tighten it. Also, check for a bent bolt that the nut is attached to and replace any worn or bent parts as needed. (I have replaced similar parts on a smaller trailer although I am not sure where to suggest you order from, perhaps Dexter. There may be a manufacture listed that I couldn't see in your images.) ~CA


https://www.fieldandstream.com/artic...upler-minutes/
I couldn't find a manufacturer's name on it, either. There is the locking plate, but also the way this tongue has been assembled, that makes me so much not wanting to initiate such a repair.

Thank you for the suggestion and the reference. I may have to return to it again.
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Old 07-10-2024, 07:58 PM   #13
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I couldn't find a manufacturer's name on it, either. There is the locking plate, but also the way this tongue has been assembled, that makes me so much not wanting to initiate such a repair.

Thank you for the suggestion and the reference. I may have to return to it again.
RAM right above the SAE CLASS III

https://ramtrailerproducts.com/
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Old 07-10-2024, 07:59 PM   #14
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I would say by the wear marks on the top-rear of the ball and the bottom of the latch that it has been run at least once with the ball out of the pocket.
You are right. Actually, there is a pretty nasty scratch that runs almost all the way around just above the "equator".
My ball is on a 6" drop-down. I measured the drop when I hitch the trailer onto the car, and it is about 3". So, I am thinking, maybe I should replace my ball by a 2" raised ball to keep the trailer a bit more level.
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Old 07-10-2024, 08:01 PM   #15
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RAM right above the SAE CLASS III

https://ramtrailerproducts.com/
Thank you!
I saw RAM, but didn't recognize it as the manufacturer.
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Old 07-10-2024, 09:00 PM   #16
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Ha! Thanks to Grumpy and craigav I found a decent replacement for the latch: CA-5100-RK. For $23 at Etrailer.
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Old Yesterday, 12:54 PM   #17
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Don't know if this would help to ensure the ball is seated correctly with your set up, but to ensure I'm ok, this is what I do.
After I connect, I raise the trailer up fairly high, which raises the truck as well. Then give the hitch a good kick. If it doesn't drop, it's good( or at least I feel good about it). This is when I also connect up my E2 bars. So it's not a wasted raising. Crossing fingers, no issues in 5 years... So far!
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Old Yesterday, 05:06 PM   #18
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Don't know if this would help to ensure the ball is seated correctly with your set up, but to ensure I'm ok, this is what I do.
After I connect, I raise the trailer up fairly high, which raises the truck as well. Then give the hitch a good kick. If it doesn't drop, it's good( or at least I feel good about it). This is when I also connect up my E2 bars. So it's not a wasted raising. Crossing fingers, no issues in 5 years... So far!
Same here. Connecting the bars is a great double check that I'm latched
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Old Yesterday, 05:56 PM   #19
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Same here. Connecting the bars is a great double check that I'm latched
That doesn't work for me. My TV has sway correction built in and doesn't allow bars.
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Old Today, 05:40 AM   #20
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That doesn't work for me. My TV has sway correction built in and doesn't allow bars.
Just curious as to what your TV is. My F150 has sway control that I turn off using the on dash menu. The RV tech who installed my WDH told me to be sure an turn off the on-board sway control when pulling my trailer with the WDH. The on-board sway control defaults on every time the truck is started, so scrolling to the menu option and turning it off became pretty automatic for me. If your hitch is dropping 3" with the trailer connected it might be a good idea to look into a WDH with sway control. You will probably have better handling on the road as an added benefit.
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