Is a WDH necessary?

[KBinAZ]

I used to have pop-up (3000# fully loaded) and Tacoma (6spd V6 4WD). The Tacoma towed that pop-up like a champ with just a sway bar. In 8 years I never had any problems other than a brief sway moment one time coming south out of flagstaff on one of my first trips. But now I have an x17z and V8 Tundra 4WD. I will use a sway bar.

My questions is do I need a WDH? If not, would provide some additional stability, ease of towing and/or insurance in the adventurous world of towing? Or would it just be a redundant waste of money and added complication with my TT and TV combination? I do not mind spending a few $$ and the effort if there is some benefit.

[Rustic Eagle]

KBinAZ,

Welcome to JOF

Originally Posted by KBinAZ

snip...... My questions is do I need a WDH? If not, would provide some additional stability, ease of towing.......snip

May not be required...., depends on a couple factors including one's personal loading habits.

The X17Z has a low CCC of 670lbs (published), and IMO once loaded the gross loaded weight will fast approach the 3,950lb GVWR. (especially with fluids). At 3,950lb gross weight = 513lb - 593lb (13% - 15%) recommended loaded tongue weight range.

Question: What's your TV's specified (owners manual) "weight carrying" tongue weight limit, and the TV's OEM receiver hitch "weight carrying" weight limit? The lower rating trump's the other.

A WDH when utilized in conditions where on isn't required based on specified weight limits can provide enhance TV handling..., especially in less than ideal towing conditions (sudden maneuvers, wind, etc..

A WDH can minimize travel 'porpoising' due to poor road conditions, maintain TV front suspension weight distribution, and minimize rear TV squat. Also keep in mind that a HTT has a lot more surface for wind to play with.

It should be noted that cargo loaded in the TV box 'behind' the rear axle is also supported (percentage of) by a WDH.

Bob

[DocBrown]

One of things a WDH does is to replace weight back on the front wheels, that is the steering control of the tow vehicle. So the question becomes, "how does the steering feel with the trailer connected?". If the front end moves up when connected you'll feel less steering control the faster you go. When all is said and done it's a safety issue.

Some tow vehicle manuals will tell you how to spec the WDH adjustment. GM for example says to measure the stock front fender hieght, then measure again with the trailer on but no WDH. Then adjust the WDH so that the fender is back to stock height.

[weekendwarrior]

I have a 23B and and F150. I towed with just a sway control my first year. There were many times when a semi passed with a bit of speed and it would make the butthole pucher. Took the plunge year 2 and bought a WDH, and what a wold of difference it made. Probably the best piece of equipment I've purchased for my rig. I bought the cheap one from harbor freight and I highly recommend it. The entire rig tows so much smoother, I forget it's back there. I took my sway control off and don't miss it one bit.

[RogerR]

If you want to do a simple first test try this.

Measure your height of you front bumper ( use a piece of tape of something) and you back bumper. Without moving the vehicle hitch up or unhitch and measure both again. If you front goes up more than an inch and you back goes down more than an inch a WDH is a good idea.

I like the Andersen for simplicity, included sway and bounce control and ease of hitching up. It also is light weight so you don't add to your problems.

[gpeade]

A WDH in itself isn't going to give you much in the way of preventing sway, if anything at all. What they will add is the ability to add sway control as many WDH have sway control built in.
Everything that has been said above is correct. If your trailer tongue weight is exceeding your trucks max rated tongue load then yes you need a WDH. Rule of thumb...when you are all hitched and loaded does your truck squat in the rear? If so put a WDH on it.

[Screwby]

I tow my 23RB with my one ton diesel dually. On paper by no means am I anywhere close to needing the WD hitch and sway bar I used when I towed with my 3/4 ton gas Suburban. I can absolutely tow my TT and it rides pretty darn good all loaded down (on smooth roads). I can still tell a difference when the WD isn’t hooked up once conditions aren’t perfect. It’s a comfort level thing for me, not a payload issue. Without the WD if I’m on a bad road with uneven pavement or the rutted out washboard gravel roads in South Dakota it will “pull” and “porpoise” the rear of the truck. With the WD hooked up I can often times forget the TT is even behind me as semis wizz by and I’m zooming up and down the mountains of Tennessee or the backroads of Kansas. Adjusted correctly I think the WD hitch is an asset to improve the experience of towing your trailer not just a tool to squeeze the heaviest trailer on the lightest towing vehicle you can.

[DocBrown]

Originally Posted by gpeade

Rule of thumb...when you are all hitched and loaded does your truck squat in the rear? If so put a WDH on it.

Actually rear squat should not be the determining factor. It's the front wheel well height. Most hitches even after properly setup will still have some rear squat.

[gpeade]

Doc I agree and maybe I should have been more clear.
I was referring to extreme squatting, you know the type that puts your headlights shining in the trees. If you hook up and your rear drops only an inch or so you are most likely fine because no more squat that that will not raise the front any if at all.

[RogerR]

[QUOTE=gpeade;743502]A WDH in itself isn't going to give you much in the way of preventing sway, if anything at all. What they will add is the ability to add sway control as many WDH have sway control built in.


The Andersen Hitch has a built in sway control based on a cone of brake material built into the hitch. The trailer and ball are locked together and when the trailer moves sideways the ball pivots inside the hitch body with it's weight on the brake material. The heavier the trailer the higher the resistance provided by the hitch.

[DocBrown]

Originally Posted by gpeade

Doc I agree and maybe I should have been more clear.
I was referring to extreme squatting, you know the type that puts your headlights shining in the trees. If you hook up and your rear drops only an inch or so you are most likely fine because no more squat that that will not raise the front any if at all.

Actually an inch or so may not make the headlights too high, but it will take enough weight off the front wheels to make the steering squirrelly at freeway speeds. It's the front fender height you have to watch. Once that's adjusted (According to the truck's manual) the rear squat will be minimal.

[KBinAZ]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

KBinAZ,
Question: What's your TV's specified (owners manual) "weight carrying" tongue weight limit, and the TV's OEM receiver hitch "weight carrying" weight limit? The lower rating trump's the other.
Bob

Hi, thanks for everyones input. I did some looking around. My TV owner manual suggests sway control over 2k lbs and WDH over 5k lbs. I also see my TV has built in sway control. I have not yet found these measurements you mention above yet, just need to spend a few more minutes looking.

I will probably invest in a WDH. Better safe than sorry.