Just brought home 2010 17z

cablerum · 04-14-2012, 06:34 PM

So I just brought home my "new to me' 2010 17z & have a couple questions.

The first thing I noticed is that I have 2 stabilizer jacks in the back, but no stabilizer jacks in the front. It doesn't look like there is anywhere for them to even mount on the front frame. Does anyone else have a 2010 17z & have front stabilizers? If someone has a 17z could you post a pick of your front stabilizers and how they are mounter?

The next thing I am wondering is how do you turn off the DC? It seems silly to always have to disconnect the battery, there should be a simple on/off switch. The previous owner of this trailer installed an inline fuse on the positive wire coming off the battery so I just had to pull the fuse, but is there a better way?

And lastly, the dealer (not a Jayco dealer) was supposed to swap the 20lb tank on front to a 30lb but said they were unable to mount & secure the 30lb because the brackets were too short. So, they filled and left the 20lb tank on the trailer plus gave me a full 30lb tank but it's up to me to find the mounting brackets to fit this tank. Any suggestions on where to find these apart from a visit to the dealer? They are like long rods that go from the base plate to the top on the tank. Thanks

go wild · 04-15-2012, 10:03 AM

Hi - I added front stabilizers to my 17Z. I bolted them to the frame that goes across the front of the camper. I positioned them so they fold out towards the sides of the camper, same as the rear stabilizers. I wanted to minimize side-to-side movement as much as possible..sorry no pic yet.

My 17Z came from the dealer with the same inline fuse off the battery. There is no factory switch to isolate DC power from the RV. A lot of people add a marine battery cutoff switch, probably the most common RV mod. Search RV.net for lots of details.

The 2010 17Z came with a standard 30lb propane tank. Mine is mounted to the base plate by two bolts on the bottom lip of the tank. Don't have any mounting rods.

cablerum · 04-15-2012, 08:37 PM

Thanks for the reply..I will go to the dealer & get the stabilizers for the front. Today I installed a new battery box to hold a group 30 battery & I installed a 50A 12v DC switch on the positive side so I can just turn the DC on and off.

As for the propane tank, maybe it was an option or depended on what the dealer had, but this one has a factory 20lb tank and brackets. Maybe when you get some time you can post pics of how your 30lb tank is mounted and your front stabilizers.

Thanks

tlhdoc · 04-17-2012, 08:31 PM

First congratulations on the new camper!

I also had the dealer install front jacks before I picked up my 2010 17Z. I also have the inline fuse to disconnect the batter. The 30 pound tank was standard of the trailer. All that holds the tank to the tank tray are 2 bolts/nuts. They are a pain to take off and on when the tank gets filled. The tank sits on the tray and you need to line up the slots on the tank with the holes in the tray. The 2 bolts are 180 degrees of each other. One faces the battery tray and the other faces the trailer. I can take pictures tomorrow or on the weekend if you would like to see them.

Last do you have a bubble skylight in your bathroom? A few of the early models did not have the skylight.

Lounsy · 04-17-2012, 08:55 PM

I think the 30 is standard. I use two aluminium stabilizers on the front. I replaced the bolts on the bottom of the tank with snap clips (easy off and on) and use two of the heavy rubber shock straps to stabilize

cablerum · 04-17-2012, 09:32 PM

I found the front jacks for sale at the dealer, $89.99 for a set of 2 & I looked under a 2012 model in the showroom to see how they were installed so I should be good for that concern.

I also seen another 30lb tank mounted with the bolts in the bottom so that is what I will do. I was just thrown for a loop because the 20lb tank on the trailer had rods that were bent on one end and threaded on the other end. The bent end hooked over the handle on the tank, the threaded end went in a hole on the tray and a wing nut screwed on the bottom. I thought I needed longer versions of these rods but then seen the nut in the bottom option.

And yes my trailer does have the skylight in the shower. Good thing it does because I'm 6'1" and I need the headroom!

cablerum · 04-17-2012, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lounsy

I think the 30 is standard. I use two aluminium stabilizers on the front. I replaced the bolts on the bottom of the tank with snap clips (easy off and on) and use two of the heavy rubber shock straps to stabilize

What do you mean by snap clips? Do you have a picture? I too was thinking the nut & bolt method would be a pain at refill time...

Lounsy · 04-18-2012, 09:02 PM

lol my trailer is still in inside storage. I will see if I have any kicking around and post a pic

tlhdoc · 04-19-2012, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cablerum

the 20lb tank on the trailer had rods that were bent on one end and threaded on the other end. The bent end hooked over the handle on the tank, the threaded end went in a hole on the tray and a wing nut screwed on the bottom.

And yes my trailer does have the skylight in the shower. Good thing it does because I'm 6'1" and I need the headroom!

Those are the rods that Coleman/Fleetwood used on their trailers.

I am glad you have the skylight. It lights up the bathroom and gives you the head room you need. The first 17Z I saw was at the big Hershey RV Show in 2009. That is when I fell in love with the floor plan. I had a list of things that I wanted and everything could be done to the trailer, except it did not have a skylight in the bathroom. I asked if one could be added and was told NO. Later in fall I was camper browsing at my dealer and they had a Z on the lot. It had the skylight and that camper is now mine.

tlhdoc · 04-20-2012, 07:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cablerum

I too was thinking the nut & bolt method would be a pain at refill time...

It is a pita.

cablerum · 04-20-2012, 07:46 AM

I'm going to try to find some threaded rod and a barrel nut to extend the length of those rods that fit the 20lb tank to make it fit a 30lb tank. It's a much better system if I can make it work. I put the 30lb tank on using the nut & bolt in the bottom ring. It took lots of swearing and I don't look forward to refill time!

go wild · 04-23-2012, 07:30 PM

Following up from an earlier post..here are pics of the front stabilizers I added to our 17Z.

cablerum · 04-24-2012, 11:41 AM

Thanks for the pictures "go wild", I'm going to be doing that this weekend hopefully. I also found matching threaded rod and a couple barrel nuts to extend the 20lb tank mounting brackets to fit the 30lb tank. This way I don't have to struggle with that nut & bolt in the bottom ring. Got everything I need for $5 at Home Depot to modify the tank brackets.

wb2nco · 05-14-2012, 06:46 PM

I got rid of the 30 lbs lp tank and converted to 2 20 lbs tanks on my 17c. I like to know where I am with propane at all times. I cannot tell you how many times I ran out of LP running on 1 30 lbs tank. Front stabiizers are a must. I moved the 2 factory stabilizers to the front and bought aftermarket stabilizers and added them to the rear. What a difference!

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