Leaks and cracked plastic strip

[bankr63]

@Geoscience_guy - please introduce yourself to the Enter key on your keyboard or keypad. Those posts are brutal to read.

[Geoscience Guy]

Originally Posted by bankr63

@Geoscience_guy - please introduce yourself to the Enter key on your keyboard or keypad. Those posts are brutal to read.

Sorry - I write a lot of very large technical reports - engineering & geoscience, typed these up in less than 5-min. while doing an online seminar--- didn't worry about format. May go back and place in the following "manual" type format;

Reasons to use the new style trim:
· a) Retain value of the camper, and
reduce a possible surprise leak in the field.


Thank you bankr63 for the feedback

[Merrick]

I dont have access to my camper now. My cracks look just like the ones in the OPs
pics.

[Geoscience Guy]

Here is the final installation of the new trim design, I ordered the trim for a 2020 Z17X trim for my 2017 19UXD Jay Feather 7, because of the width of the Jay Feather 7, had to cut off a little off the upper trim.

The trim pinches the J-Lock strip so I will not have to drill holes and use screws, as the factory did that caused the cracks and separation of the plastic strip.
I have not replaced the plastic strip yet, wanted to see how this would work before the replacement. So far looks very promising, see attached pictures.

I will start the complaint process with the AG on the strip matter which so many have been experiencing due to the factory installation.
The pictures are taken of the front bunk installation of the new trim only. It took about 1 hour to complete the installation. I will attach the Jayco design later - hope this helps folks ---

[Geoscience Guy]

Please find the attached drawing: Jayco Trim, Bed Door Opening Assy. This design was attached to the pictures from Jayco parts. As shown, trim to "pinch" tent welt around openings. From the looks of the drawing, there should be no need to drill holes in the welt (plastic trim).

[Dblaschke]

Originally Posted by Geoscience Guy

Hi Merrick- must of the forums and other resources I referenced indicated the problem was not a defect with J-strip, J-lock or J-channel (J-Lock) plastic strip that is sewn onto the canvas for the premature failure of the strip (in some, if not most, cases-the plastic strip is fractured off the Jayco assembly line – I define as failure), it is the screws – in Jayco’s case, self-tapping screws along with over-torquing of those screws in most cases during factory installation (I cannot say all the Jayco hybrids – all I can say is a lot). There are drill bits made for drilling holes in plastic, not self-tapping screws, that will reduce the chance of a fracture in the plastic; however, as I have been advised on the installation by canvas shops, the J-Lock was not designed for a screw to be drilled or hole to be drilled into the plastic – the J-Lock has a flex factor, as it ages it will be less, but somewhat uniform throughout the strip, if the tension is uniform. What I have noticed on most pictures, the separation or cracks in the plastic is at the corners, where the screws have fractured the plastic in a small area- that is the damage which is not covered will continue to creep. Now, to repair the fracture or crack, in some cases a separation with a washer to stop the growth of the fracture or crack or close the separation - I have noticed that some dealers will drill a hole and place a washer, so that if there is a fracture in the plastic it is covered so it will not creep (some would have screws and washers – 6-inches etc. – crazy); however, this may cause more tension on the area of the threads where the plastic is sewn onto the canvas or shorten the flex of the plastic. My tension bar for the setup of the bunk was on the last adjustment, so I did not have a way to reduce the tension on the canvas (plastic strip) – so I fixed that problem – it was very tight before I shortened the outer part of the pole so it could be adjusted. Tension is a big factor in the fracture creep process (simple plastic mechanics-it is like a wave that runs in front of the fracture and moves forward - creep). Again, discussions with some of the canvas folks – the J-Lock should last for approximately 10 years before the strip needs to be replaced – but that also depends on some other factors like tension – it may last longer, exposure etc. Not all hybrids use J-Lock with a screw – Starcraft, which is under the same Thor group as Jayco, changed to the new trim over J-Lock design sometime in 2016-17 – Jayco had a design in 2018 that involved the trim over J-Lock using no screws – to my understanding – no holes in the J-Lock in the 2020-21 models. To upgrade my camper, I had to order from the 2020 model to get the trim over the J-Lock, still waiting on the shipment – haven’t heard anything (problems – but they haven’t been using this design long) on the newer design on Jayco, and on the Starcraft with their new design, which is the same as Jayco. For us with the pre-2020 installation involving the self-tapping screws; well------, we live with the washers, glue or whatever until it separates – leaks, etc. My plan is to install the new trim design to check the install – see if the tension is uniform or spread around the corners with the new trim covers and the new top & side trim to the J-Lock with a pinch on the J part to hold the strip in place, as to the drawing I acquired indicates. If all looks good, I will order the new J-Lock strip, since Jayco will not provide new tents (let the AG office handle that part), have a shop replace the plastic (I live in El Paso – tons of shops) – I would like this problem fixed to retain the value of the camper and reduce a possible surprise leak in the field - for folks that install a new strip or canvas – this maybe an option to drilling holes. I have depended on my own experience with my camper and my discussions with the service people at Jayco (very bad experience with these people-never again), dealers, canvas folks, and this forum and other forums. Hope this helps Thank you.

I have the same problem with the plastic ‘j-strip’ separation- Can you tell me a part ‘name’ or a part number & where I can order it from? I need to replace the strip on both canvases. Not real sure if I can find my way back to this thread & this forum or not - blaschkedennis@gmail.com
Thank you
Dennis Blaschke

[Geoscience Guy]

Originally Posted by Dblaschke

I have the same problem with the plastic ‘j-strip’ separation- Can you tell me a part ‘name’ or a part number & where I can order it from? I need to replace the strip on both canvases. Not real sure if I can find my way back to this thread & this forum or not - blaschkedennis@gmail.com
Thank you
Dennis Blaschke

Hi Dennis, what year & model do you have - can you post a picture? Below are some contacts for the strip or you can ship them in: back log was something like 24 weeks -



Carol Iapalucci
President
Top Stitch
921 Summa Drive
Elkhart, IN 46516
Phone: 574-293-6633
Cell: 574-276-0195
Fax: 574-522-3322
Email: carol@topstitchusa.com Website: www.topstitchusa.com


Omega Insert installed is $100/bunk plus the shipping. We are 24 + weeks out at this time.
Omega Insert is $3/Ft plus the shipping.
Leane

Bear Creek Canvas
802 North Pacific Street
Spencer, WI 54479
715.659.2777 or 800.701.8368
info@bearcreekcanvas.com

Jayco Dealer Part No. 0181878 $0.99 per ft.
You have to order from the dealer - you can have it drop shipped - the dealer rep. said this was the orig plastic strip ?

I talked to Bear Creek for over an hour - it sounds like the Omega strip they sale is a little heavier? From all feed back - they do a great job on replacing the strip if you have time to wait.


Top Stitch will not warranty the strip if you put a hole in it as the factory install shows-I installed the new trim on mine- I have not replaced the strip yet.


Please post some pictures and a little history on the problem- Thank you!

[MamaHoney]

Good evening! I am way late in the game, but found this thread when trying to figure out how to fix the leak in one of my bunks. It is definitely due to the plastic strip being cracked and completely separated at one point. I think I am understanding that the plastic strip itself can be replaced if the canvas is in good shape. Is this accurate?

I just got back from a weekend with the grands, so my brain is somewhat mush. This may be clearly explained and it is just not clicking for me. If that is the case, I apologize.

Thanks so much for your time and response.

[Geoscience Guy]

Yes, if you canvas is in good shape - the J Lock can be replaced -


Give these folks a call - they are very good about answering questions:


Bear Creek Canvas
802 North Pacific Street
Spencer, WI 54479
715.659.2777 or 800.701.8368
info@bearcreekcanvas.com



Can you post some pictures and what year & model is your camper - is it the front or back bunk? Is it the screws that cracked the plastic? This helps see where most of the problems are happening and will help me with the AG office- -- Hope this helps! Thank you

[MamaHoney]

It is actually a 2018 StarCraft Launch Outfitter, but it is my understanding that it falls under the same umbrella. All three bunks are cracking, but the front is the one that is really bad. I will remove my temporary fix and take a few pictures for you in a bit.

[Geoscience Guy]

Thank you very much - yes it is my understanding they are the same - I have read about the StarCraft Launch doing the same - Thank you for the help!

[MamaHoney]

The front bunk has given me a ton of trouble since day one. The interior of the bunk was wet when we opened it on our first trip, but I was told no leaks were located. We have had it in multiple times and have always been told no leaks, but we are now having to replace a soft floor. It definitely leaks when open through the crack in the picture. As a first time RV owner, I wasn’t even sure what to look for. I have definitely learned a lot.

[Geoscience Guy]

Good morning, wow - the strip is very badly cracked and appears not making a seal below the gutter - so the tape on the outside, maybe a temp fix, see below. I would give Bear Creek a call - I have read their plastic strip is a little heavier than the factory strip, which may help - all three look bad - the cut-out, as with mine, was over sized - not a lot of room under the front bunk shelf on yours for trim to pinch the tent welt around the opening. This will be a challenge - is there soft paneling around the bunk opening?

Thank you for the pictures - plastic fracture creep due to the screws done at the factory, same as with most of the other problems folks are having with the plastic strip.


Do you have an adjustment on the tension bar? Too much tension on the canvas will increase the creep. Mine did not have an adjustment left on the bar - so I had to cut the outside of the bar, so I could decrease the tension. You can see the creep moving towards the corner where most of the tension will be applied - it is the classic wave as the creep moves forward.



Re: Tunce the traveler - You don’t need a fatter or deeper gutter to solve the water leak. I solved the problem with a good brand of duct tape applied from one end to the other and over the radius. Another thing that’s a must is to remove every screw that’s holding the gutter in place and add a rubber washer or “O” ring to prevent water from seeping in. Look very carefully at the pic & you’ll see that “O” ring. I bet every screw is rusty on yours.
Oh, I get 3 years with good adhesion from the duct tape. These are the washers I told you about at 3:18 AM ( Tunce was chasing rabbits all night in her sleep) so I had nothing better to do so I checked in.
If you take a close look you’ll notice that the rubber washer is larger than the SST washer and that allows the rubber one to compress around the screw threads to keep the water from seeping in.
When I replaced the screws I think I installed ( one size larger in both length & width).
Don’t know the year of your TT but check the rubber pads on the door latches as they might need replacing if they lost their compression capability that can also cause a leak when the door is in the closed position



Attached Thumbnails

[MamaHoney]

Good morning, wow - the strip is very badly cracked and appears not making a seal below the gutter - so the tape on the outside, maybe a temp fix, see below.
I had not considered taping the outside. You can see in the picture where I had unsuccessfully taped from the inside. That may work for the side and back bunks, but the front is separated enough that we can put our hand through it.

I would give Bear Creek a call - I have read their plastic strip is a little heavier than the factory strip, which may help - all three look bad - the cut-out, as with mine, was over sized - not a lot of room under the front bunk shelf on yours for trim to pinch the tent welt around the opening. This will be a challenge - is there soft paneling around the bunk opening?
Yes, there is soft paneling, which will definitely present a challenge.
My husband has been researching other options as well and may go a different route altogether. At this point, we can't really make it much worse.

Thank you for the pictures - plastic fracture creep due to the screws done at the factory, same as with most of the other problems folks are having with the plastic strip.


Do you have an adjustment on the tension bar? Too much tension on the canvas will increase the creep. Mine did not have an adjustment left on the bar - so I had to cut the outside of the bar, so I could decrease the tension. You can see the creep moving towards the corner where most of the tension will be applied - it is the classic wave as the creep moves forward.
Same situation... we are at the least amount of tension. I brought that up to my husband last night and we will be adding an additional adjustment.

Thanks so much for your responses. Wish me luck!

[Geoscience Guy]

Hope these help -Good luck and keep us updated - Thank you

[Tunce the traveler]

Originally Posted by MamaHoney

Good morning, wow - the strip is very badly cracked and appears not making a seal below the gutter - so the tape on the outside, maybe a temp fix, see below.
I had not considered taping the outside. You can see in the picture where I had unsuccessfully taped from the inside. That may work for the side and back bunks, but the front is separated enough that we can put our hand through it.

This will be a challenge - is there soft paneling around the bunk opening?
Yes, there is soft paneling, which will definitely present a challenge.
Wish me luck!

Please don’t forget these screws, not all of them have been driven in straight and the rain will wick right in to the wood. That “0” ring will stop the wicking at the gutter which is a separate issue & not the canvas issue that you & all of us have.

[Seth243]

Originally Posted by Geoscience Guy

Please find the attached drawing: Jayco Trim, Bed Door Opening Assy. This design was attached to the pictures from Jayco parts. As shown, trim to "pinch" tent welt around openings. From the looks of the drawing, there should be no need to drill holes in the welt (plastic trim).

Where did you order the new pinch style bunk trim and corners from? Jayco dealer? I tried doing a search of the part numbers listed in the schematic, but it did not yield anything online. Thanks!