Lift for x17z

andthenewf · 03-29-2015, 10:25 PM

wondering if any of you have lifted your hybrid. I have the x17z and its clearance is so limited. any suggestions?

djtho1 · 03-29-2015, 10:34 PM

Nothing is recommended by Jayco, and it will likely void any warranties. That being said, if you have traditional leaf springs, any good spring shop should be able to move the axles to under the springs. That will give you several inches. Just remember that it changes your hitch height, step height for the door, etc.

bucko · 03-30-2015, 04:35 AM

What are you towing into that would require a TT lift?

DocBrown · 03-30-2015, 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djtho1

Nothing is recommended by Jayco, and it will likely void any warranties. That being said, if you have traditional leaf springs,

The Jayfeather Hybrids have Dexter Torflex axles. No leaf springs. It's also not true that "nothing is recommended by Jayco". There is a 2" lift kit available as a factory option for most Jayfeather Ultralight models, which also applies to the X17Z. I do not know if it can be added after market though. Some people have made their own lift brackets, all they really are is an extra bracket that the axles mount to.

Back when this was still the Kiwi line, Jayco designed these to ride lower than other travel trailers, presumably to reduce drag. My old Kiwi 17a was very low, lower than the current Jayfeather line. Once I learned where I could pull it and not pull it, it wasn't a problem. But these trailers will not clear a lot a business driveways because of their ride height.

Frank Rader · 04-08-2015, 08:45 AM

2008 17c, here. I added about 1/2", maybe, by going to 14" tires from the 13" factory tires but that was not the reason for changing wheels and tires. I believe there is space I could have gone to 15" tires which would add 1", but did not pursue that. After adding the new tires I spent $20 to have a hitch guy check out the hitch with the new height. As was mentioned, get that done. The hitch guy made an adjustment.

My driveway loops and an end of the loop angles causing the camper to drag which popped off one of the protective drag angle irons. I got that quickly fixed by a non-camper mechanic by forcing the angled iron back to shape and putting in a new bolt. After that I did not use that end of the loop drive. I've not had any other drag spots I know about in 5 years of camping.

go wild · 04-08-2015, 09:02 AM

I went from the factory 185/80/13 tires to 205/75/R14. This gained about 3/4" using the tire calculator on the Discount tire website. Didn't really notice a difference in step height, clearance at dump stations, etc.

Frank Rader · 04-08-2015, 08:28 PM

I did my wheel and tire switch at Discount Tire. They had what I needed, and specified, in stock and once tires were mounted allowed me to use my wrench to loosen lug nuts. When I change a tire I have to to know I can get it off. The new wheels and tires weigh about 44 lb each compared with 35 lb for 13".

chuckworkb · 04-09-2015, 05:34 AM

Would the lift kit cause more trailer sway?

When I had to replace two of the factory tires last year, I should have gotten 14 inch, but I was afraid they might hit, or have issues on tight turns.

Frank Rader · 04-09-2015, 05:58 AM

Lots of asking about, measuring and reading told me that the added width of the wheel for the 14" tire was all outboard so clearance toward the wheel well would be about the same. Likewise, reading, and then measuring, diameter of wheel & tire showed there was expansion room in the well. At Discount Tire, a quick in/out place, they were very kind to work with me. We mounted one 14" tire, spun it, measured it, pushed/pull on it, put weight on it and convinced me the camper should have always had 14" wheels. The tire is a lower aspect tire so sidewalk flex has not been something I've been concerned about.

DocBrown · 04-09-2015, 07:05 AM

There is very little to be gained by putting on 14" tires, other than the fact that you generally have a higher load rating. The small amount of height you gain isn't enough to make a significant difference.

Frank Rader · 04-09-2015, 07:50 AM

2008 Jayco 17c ex-port. For me there is significant camper usefulness. The OEM tires, ST185/80/D13 are legal and fine if they last a lifetime. If I recall, they are rated at 1,660 lbs. x2=3,320 with the remaining 180 lb coming from the roughly 300 lb on the hitch. The problem is they do not last a lifetime and cannot be found in stock in at least 8 states where I've had failures or wanted to get a spare. It is a three day order item. That makes it a poor choice.

The alternative in that size is the radial version which is sometimes available. It took 3 states for me to find 3 tires, but they are rated at 1,480 (memory), 180 lbs less than the bias ties and throw the belted tread off in about 2,000 miles. In my case the thrown belt did $350 damage to the camper black water system.

Thus 14" radials at 1,740 lbs (memory).

Frank Rader · 05-16-2015, 08:52 AM

2008 Jayco 17c. With the 14" tires & wheels replacing the OEM 13" I was towing yesterday after doing inflation (50#) checks. The camper was very lightly loaded, probably 2,850 lbs, about 100 lbs lighter than dry.

The two places where the camper always drags, it did not. I went over each very slowly, but at similar angles than when they do drag.

As I mentioned earlier, knowing then what I know now I would have considered 15" wheels and tires and tested to see if they would fit.

While in the hunt for a proper tire I was told by a tire veteran that the 14" would ride slightly higher and the sidewalls would be stiffer. I doubted the stiffness part since I moved from bias to radial, but working with the two it appears true. The 14" wheel and tire weighs about 44 lbs. The 13" OEM about 34.

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