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Old 07-10-2021, 04:43 PM   #21
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We have the 2017 19xud with the center-split mattress and after 2 years of trying to adapt those horrid teddy bear mattresses, we decided our sleep was worth an investment in a decent solution. We both searched tirelessly online for a solution and found one almost in our back yard. We have a custom mattress company in town that we talked to and they said they could make mattresses for us...not cheap but exactly to our specifications. We bit the bullet and paid almost $1500 for a Junior Queen for each bunk. Oh what a difference it made! No more sore shoulders or hips, tossing and turning...heavenly sleep. Now I'll admit to being a princess and wanting a firm mattress but with some good cush on top so I just added 1.5" of foam on top and I'm a happy girl. Good luck on your search and hopefully sweet dreams ahead!

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Old 07-10-2021, 06:34 PM   #22
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Wrong bed I put this in foldout

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Its also like $800, 10-11 inches thick, and won't fold?
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Old 07-11-2021, 10:42 AM   #23
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[QUOTE=DigitalFusion;974600]Hey all,

We just returned from looking at a 2016 x19h. Everything I have read about how horrible the mattresses are in these things held true. I mean holy cow are they bad! Our 18 year old Kiwi still has better mattresses than these.

I've spent the last hour or so searching, but everything I find is either about getting a topper, or about regular RV mattress options. These hybrid ones need to fold, and cant be a solid mattress. We don't want a topper as that's just one more thing to pack and worry about.

I was digging into trying to find some 4" high density foam, cutting in in half, and stuffing it into the mattress covers, but I figured it couldn't hurt to come here and ask if any one has any other insights or solutions?[/QUOTE

We replace our mattress with a Tochta mattress last year in our Semica. We now have purchased one for our home, mattress are awesome. ]
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Old 07-11-2021, 02:10 PM   #24
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We simply added a (Costco Online) 4-inch GEL MEMORY FOAM MATTRESS TOPPER; honestly sleep better there than at home w/ mattress/ topper; considering adding plywood at home, LOL
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Old 07-12-2021, 03:34 PM   #25
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Mattress issue

I agree the mattresses that come with these rigs is terrible. I know you said you didn't want a topper because it's something else to pack, not sure I understand that, but we ordered the item below as a 3 inch gel topper and we now have a bed that is as comfortable as our home king bed. My wife has a bad back so we had to be picky, this thing works, we've traveled across the US sleeping on this , traveled down to the Outer Banks on it, heading to Nashville soon on this. I'd suggest giving it a try, it's on Amazon and it's returnable.
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LINENSPA 3 Inch Gel Infused RV Queen Memory Foam Mattress Topper, Blue
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Old 07-15-2021, 06:55 AM   #26
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I agree the mattresses that come with these rigs is terrible. I know you said you didn't want a topper because it's something else to pack, not sure I understand that, but we ordered the item below as a 3 inch gel topper and we now have a bed that is as comfortable as our home king bed. My wife has a bad back so we had to be picky, this thing works, we've traveled across the US sleeping on this , traveled down to the Outer Banks on it, heading to Nashville soon on this. I'd suggest giving it a try, it's on Amazon and it's returnable.
Cheers


LINENSPA 3 Inch Gel Infused RV Queen Memory Foam Mattress Topper, Blue
Size:RV Queen
I've had back surgery so a good mattress is important.
Can the topper be folded up inside the mattress? Or do you need to take it off and roll it up separately?
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Old 07-16-2021, 12:09 PM   #27
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No it stays on top of the existing mattress. So I'm assuming you do not have a "stationary" bed in the rig? If not, now I understand your issue of extra packing.
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Old 07-16-2021, 01:52 PM   #28
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No it stays on top of the existing mattress. So I'm assuming you do not have a "stationary" bed in the rig? If not, now I understand your issue of extra packing.
No stationary bed---- I assumed in the Jayco Hybrids forum we were all just assuming it was a fold up mattress situation! LOL
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Old 07-17-2021, 09:54 AM   #29
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We are into our new 4.5" mattress (3" foam, 1.5" gel memory foam) setup for a total of $300 for both ends. $600 if you include the Den-Dry underlayment and waterproof covers. We've never experienced moisture issues in the bunks, but I prefer to be proactive vs reactive. We're happy with the change. They dont fold as easily as the worthless teddy bear sacks of straw, but they do indeed fold and fit in the original location for transport with the straps.

I'll try and get some pictures today as I hope to tackle the hinged access panel mod this afternoon.
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Old 07-18-2021, 03:53 PM   #30
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We are into our new 4.5" mattress (3" foam, 1.5" gel memory foam) setup for a total of $300 for both ends. $600 if you include the Den-Dry underlayment and waterproof covers. We've never experienced moisture issues in the bunks, but I prefer to be proactive vs reactive. We're happy with the change. They dont fold as easily as the worthless teddy bear sacks of straw, but they do indeed fold and fit in the original location for transport with the straps.

I'll try and get some pictures today as I hope to tackle the hinged access panel mod this afternoon.
I snapped a couple shots while doing some other updates to the camper this weekend (front storage piano hinge mod, rare-earth hard drive magnet sofa storage mod, and some black trim restoration on the propane tank cover).

These are without the Den-Dry or waterproof covers, but you get the idea of size vs the original 'mattresses'. Well worth 300 bucks for the upgrade to both ends. As I said, they don't fold as well, and the rear bunk lacks the strap like the front that the older models had, so the mattress wanted to stick out into the entry, but strategically placing the shepherds pole took care of that.
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Old 07-19-2021, 07:29 AM   #31
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We are into our new 4.5" mattress (3" foam, 1.5" gel memory foam) setup for a total of $300 for both ends. $600 if you include the Den-Dry underlayment and waterproof covers. We've never experienced moisture issues in the bunks, but I prefer to be proactive vs reactive. We're happy with the change. They dont fold as easily as the worthless teddy bear sacks of straw, but they do indeed fold and fit in the original location for transport with the straps.

I'll try and get some pictures today as I hope to tackle the hinged access panel mod this afternoon.
thank you for the review and links!! Super helpful!!!

So the old mattress on top - just for comparison sakes? Or do you actually sleep with it doubled up like that?

I see it supported by the other bathroom wall - how does it work folded up with your straps when closed in the large open end? I assume the memory foam weighs a bit more than the original mattress?

Does the Dry Den fold up too? how do you store that for traveling?

Also -with your piano hinge mod - are you taking up the entire TOP, or did you cut it short so you avoid rubbing against the wall when opening/closing?
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Old 07-19-2021, 09:26 AM   #32
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Yeah, I just set the old one on top for the comparison. I suppose a person could double them up, but I don't think they would both fit in the regular location when traveling. We don't feel the need to do so as these are comfortable as-is.

It works fine on the front as well. the straps do hold it and I didn't even need to adjust them. I should note that they do offer some resistance when closing the bunk ends, and if you're picky like us and like to close the curtains for a cleaner look while traveling, the increased width doesn't lend itself well to this. The curtains billow out.

You're correct about the weight. These weigh 34 lbs according to the product details (which might be the weight including packaging?) and if I had to guess, and I am completely shooting from the hip here, the teddy bear mattresses weigh what... like 15 lbs? We've only traveled with these once for a total of about 12 miles, so time will tell if the plastic clips on the straps will hold up, but worst case they snap and they get replaced with some metal clips.

The Dry-Den comes in two 38" wide rolls for each end that you cut to fit, so it will be two separate pieces. It's an inch thick and doesn't compress, so it will add two inches to the storage width which does concern me. Not that it won't fit, as I am sure it will since the mattresses will compress a bit, but how much more resistance it will add to closing the bunk ends.

My plan for the piano hinge mod is to find a tight-grid 4' x 8' welded wire fence panel and cut and fold it to make a basket that runs the length of the opening as we still want to be able to use the lower part of that area to store fishing poles and kayak paddles from the outside cargo hatch. If the Dry-Den makes folding the bunk ends in too much of a pain, maybe we can roll them up and store them there.

I ended up cutting 8" off each end with a 80 tooth blade on my miter saw, after trying it without and not liking it. I also would like to add some soft-closing lid stays to keep the lid from going past 90* as I noticed some stress and flex in the bottom board the hinge is mounted to when it's opened more than 90*. Also, I found that a paint stir stick is nearly exactly the same height as that HD hinge and worked great to shim up the edges that were cut off. If you go with that HD hinge, you'll need to pick up a box of #6 1/2" stainless wood screws as the 3/4" screws it comes with will poke through the top board.
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Old 07-19-2021, 09:43 AM   #33
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Also, I found that a paint stir stick is nearly exactly the same height as that HD hinge and worked great to shim up the edges that were cut off.
Awesome advice! This is the only part I didn't quite understand - can you clarify it a little for me?
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Old 07-19-2021, 10:01 AM   #34
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Awesome advice! This is the only part I didn't quite understand - can you clarify it a little for me?
Sure, no prob.

The hinge itself has a decent thickness to it, even more so than one you might pickup from the local big box store. Once you mount it the thickness creates a slight downward angle to the board. The ends that are cut off wont have this thickness, so shimming them with the paint stir stick keeps everything flush.

Its a purely optional cosmetic step that isn't required as this area is covered by the mattress nearly 100% of the time.
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Old 07-19-2021, 10:25 AM   #35
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Sure, no prob.

The hinge itself has a decent thickness to it, even more so than one you might pickup from the local big box store. Once you mount it the thickness creates a slight downward angle to the board. The ends that are cut off wont have this thickness, so shimming them with the paint stir stick keeps everything flush.

Its a purely optional cosmetic step that isn't required as this area is covered by the mattress nearly 100% of the time.

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh gotcha! Thanks for the explanation!
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Old 07-19-2021, 01:52 PM   #36
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I snapped a couple shots while doing some other updates to the camper this weekend (front storage piano hinge mod, rare-earth hard drive magnet sofa storage mod, and some black trim restoration on the propane tank cover).

These are without the Den-Dry or waterproof covers, but you get the idea of size vs the original 'mattresses'. Well worth 300 bucks for the upgrade to both ends. As I said, they don't fold as well, and the rear bunk lacks the strap like the front that the older models had, so the mattress wanted to stick out into the entry, but strategically placing the shepherds pole took care of that.
DigitalFusion; have you confirmed your rear bunk full seals when you have the new mattress folded up? I found just adding a little extra thickness to the rear bunk mattress places to much pressure on the door, and the gasket along the top edge when closed door does not create a good water tight seal.

Our 23B came with a precursor to the wimpy Teddy Bear Mattress, and are thicker.
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Old 07-19-2021, 01:57 PM   #37
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That's a great point!

I haven't. Since one of the mattresses showed up for the long weekend over the friends lake place and the other got delayed, we've only tested/traveled with the front and had to use the original for the rear.

I'll definitely do a test. I'm thinking with the mattress in vs mattress out and see if I cant find any measurable difference with a calipers? If so, then try pushing out on the bunk end to the same gap and see if any light can shine through?
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Old 07-19-2021, 03:05 PM   #38
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That's a great point!

I haven't. Since one of the mattresses showed up for the long weekend over the friends lake place and the other got delayed, we've only tested/traveled with the front and had to use the original for the rear.

I'll definitely do a test. I'm thinking with the mattress in vs mattress out and see if I cant find any measurable difference with a calipers? If so, then try pushing out on the bunk end to the same gap and see if any light can shine through?
Might try washing the back wall, then open it up and see if you find any pooling water on the canvas.
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Old 07-19-2021, 03:15 PM   #39
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yeah, could try that as well, but I'd want to get the water proof mattress cover on first. I just assumed that it wouldn't be an issue with the cargo bar latches these have.

I just noticed that yours is a 2012. Does that still have the pivot and screw-tighten closure system?
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Old 07-19-2021, 03:50 PM   #40
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I just popped out there and checked to see if the mattress was putting any pressure on the door by sliding my arm down between the mattress and the bunk door. There is hardly any pressure what-so-ever near the bottom where the hinge is, and none at the top.

The resistance felt when closing the bunk ends is due to these not wanting to naturally fold as well as the split mattress, and pressing back against the door as its being folded.

I'll still do the test, but I am actually very confident its sealed well.
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