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Old 09-11-2016, 10:40 AM   #21
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The most common cause for nothing working on battery is the main fuse blown. This fuse is located on the positive wire coming from your battery. Follow this wire back from the battery box and eventually you will come across a fuse holder. It is usually located within the first foot or so of the battery outside the shell, but some models it can be found inside the camper. Just keep following the wire back. Note that if your wire ends at a bolt on the frame you are tracing the negative wire, check the other wire. If the fuse is blown, replace it with a like amperage fuse; usually 30A for a smaller hybrid.
This fuse can be your friend when hooking up your battery, shutting down any load and eliminating sparking when attaching wires to the battery. It can also remove any parasitic draw on your battery when in storage.
If you have partial power; say the pump runs, but no lights, then you have probably blown a fuse in the main fuse panel.
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Old 09-11-2016, 02:40 PM   #22
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1) Do you get lights? Should not be much more than that. Batteries are giving you 12volts which should power lights, gas heater, water pump, water heater ignitor and maybe some fans if you have it. If you do not at least get interior lights, you blew a fuse and check the panel.

2) It may not heat unless it is plugged into "shore" power. 120volts. I bow to the x17z gods for this one...
1) No lights, nothing works. Is there a main fuse somewhere? I see many fuses for different things...
[edit] looks like bankr63 helped with the location!

2) It's plugged into shore power, it just doesn't blow heat. Perhaps it truly is "Optional" and I need to buy something for it....

I appreciate the help A2Z_Adventures.
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Old 09-11-2016, 02:43 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by bankr63 View Post
The most common cause for nothing working on battery is the main fuse blown. This fuse is located on the positive wire coming from your battery. Follow this wire back from the battery box and eventually you will come across a fuse holder. It is usually located within the first foot or so of the battery outside the shell, but some models it can be found inside the camper. Just keep following the wire back. Note that if your wire ends at a bolt on the frame you are tracing the negative wire, check the other wire. If the fuse is blown, replace it with a like amperage fuse; usually 30A for a smaller hybrid.
This fuse can be your friend when hooking up your battery, shutting down any load and eliminating sparking when attaching wires to the battery. It can also remove any parasitic draw on your battery when in storage.
If you have partial power; say the pump runs, but no lights, then you have probably blown a fuse in the main fuse panel.
bankr63 - thanks for the input! I believe you are right....I'll give this a shot when I get my camper back from storage in the next few weeks.
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Old 09-11-2016, 02:45 PM   #24
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Great to have you around here and your only 4-1/2 hours to the Oregon Coast. Your first stop is a must " Fort Sevens State Park"
Yes! The Oregon coast is on our wish list, thanks for the Fort Stevens State Park tip!
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Old 09-15-2016, 08:34 AM   #25
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How well does your Pathfinder pull that trailer? I've got a 2015 Pathfinder SV /w 4WD, and I'm considering buying that exact camper.
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Old 09-15-2016, 09:06 AM   #26
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How well does your Pathfinder pull that trailer? I've got a 2015 Pathfinder SV /w 4WD, and I'm considering buying that exact camper.
Hi SteveMM, The Pathfinder towed like a champ.

Even climbing to 4K feet in 90 degree heat with the AC at max, the car never skipped a beat. I only have about 5K miles on the Pathfinder so far, so I didn't push it past 3.5K RPMs.

I did note that when not in "tow" mode, the CVT was thoroughly confused and erratic, constantly hunting for gears and usually picking the wrong one. But the tow button magically sorted things out.

Another thing to note is that the low gear is useless for speeds under 30 mph....which is what low gear should be for. So, when buying the trailer, I recommend getting brakes for your trailer, they came in handy.

Oh, and a weight distribution hitch helped tremendously with our saggy bottom issue....in fact, for the x17z and our Pathfinders, its a must.
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Old 09-15-2016, 09:14 AM   #27
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Hi SteveMM, The Pathfinder towed like a champ.

Even climbing to 4K feet in 90 degree heat with the AC at max, the car never skipped a beat. I only have about 5K miles on the Pathfinder so far, so I didn't push it past 3.5K RPMs.

I did note that when not in "tow" mode, the CVT was thoroughly confused and erratic, constantly hunting for gears and usually picking the wrong one. But the tow button magically sorted things out.

Another thing to note is that the low gear is useless for speeds under 30 mph....which is what low gear should be for. So, when buying the trailer, I recommend getting brakes for your trailer, they came in handy.

Oh, and a weight distribution hitch helped tremendously with our saggy bottom issue....in fact, for the x17z and our Pathfinders, its a must.
Thanks for the information. Great stuff! I've heard about the weight distribution issue and the soft rear suspension on the newer Pathfinders. I was absolutely planning to get a WD hitch. The dealer also recommended getting a brake controller installed in the Pathfinder.

Glad to hear it's working for you. Now, I just have to convince the wife that this is the trailer for us!
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Old 09-15-2016, 09:55 AM   #28
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I did note that when not in "tow" mode, the CVT was thoroughly confused and erratic, constantly hunting for gears and usually picking the wrong one. But the tow button magically sorted things out.

Another thing to note is that the low gear is useless for speeds under 30 mph....which is what low gear should be for. So, when buying the trailer, I recommend getting brakes for your trailer, they came in handy.
Fun fact: Actually a CVT does not have gears and doesn't actually shift. The numbers are on the shift lever because that's what we've been used to since 1940 or so. A CVT is essentially 2 pulleys that can change sizes connected by a rubber band. The "feel" of shifting gears is because the computer is controlling the pulley sizes. The term "gear ratio" still applies because it's the same whether actual gears are involved or sets of pulleys.
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Old 09-15-2016, 10:03 AM   #29
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Fun fact: Actually a CVT does not have gears and doesn't actually shift. The numbers are on the shift lever because that's what we've been used to since 1940 or so. A CVT is essentially 2 pulleys that can change sizes connected by a rubber band. The "feel" of shifting gears is because the computer is controlling the pulley sizes. The term "gear ratio" still applies because it's the same whether actual gears are involved or sets of pulleys.

I know, but Nissan added programming to the transmission to actually create virtual shift points to emulate a traditional automatic transmission to please the consumers that complained about the gear-less drone. So, I should have used the word "virtual" gears. BTW, I hate CVTs.....I'm a fan of a 6-speed manual or a crisp 5-7 speed automatic.
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Old 09-15-2016, 10:05 AM   #30
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Thanks for the information. Great stuff! I've heard about the weight distribution issue and the soft rear suspension on the newer Pathfinders. I was absolutely planning to get a WD hitch. The dealer also recommended getting a brake controller installed in the Pathfinder.

Glad to hear it's working for you. Now, I just have to convince the wife that this is the trailer for us!
Glad it helped. As part of the negotiations of the camper, I had the dealer throw in the WDH & electronic brake w/install, so something to consider!
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Old 09-15-2016, 10:50 AM   #31
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Glad it helped. As part of the negotiations of the camper, I had the dealer throw in the WDH & electronic brake w/install, so something to consider!
That's exactly what I was thinking -- either reduce the price or include those items. They prefer to throw things in, because it doesn't impact the salesman's commission
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Old 09-16-2016, 01:39 PM   #32
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Li

Another x17z question for you owners:

Which exterior lights work and which are reflectors? My two rear taillights on the camper handle the turn signals & brakes. But I have many lights on the side and front of the camper that don't blink. Are the rear lights the only ones that are wired and are all the rest just reflectors?
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Old 09-18-2016, 10:52 AM   #33
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Another x17z question for you owners:

Which exterior lights work and which are reflectors? My two rear taillights on the camper handle the turn signals & brakes. But I have many lights on the side and front of the camper that don't blink. Are the rear lights the only ones that are wired and are all the rest just reflectors?
The other lights are marker lights, and yes, they do light up. They are controlled by the wiring for your car's parking lights, so with your parking or headlamps on, the markers will come on as well if your 7-pin is wired correctly.
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Old 09-18-2016, 01:51 PM   #34
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The optional heat is more of a radiant heat, it doesn't blow. Turn it on and give it time.

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Old 09-26-2016, 09:48 AM   #35
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Question for the OP: I don't know how many times you've taken your X17z out so far, but have you had any concerns about payload capacity for the Pathfinder?

You had mentioned earlier that the Pathfinder pulled the camper easily. I just bought my X17z the other day and take delivery on Friday. I have a 2015 Pathfinder, and found that it only has a payload capacity of 1150 lbs, despite having a towing capacity of 5,000 lbs. That doesn't leave a lot left over after passengers, hitch weight, WD, etc. I figure I've got enough payload capacity left over in the Pathfinder for a loaded ice chest, and everything else will have to go into the camper, which only has a CCC of 715 lbs. Should be fine, so long as we don't go crazy with cargo.
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Old 09-26-2016, 10:56 AM   #36
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Question for the OP: I don't know how many times you've taken your X17z out so far, but have you had any concerns about payload capacity for the Pathfinder?

You had mentioned earlier that the Pathfinder pulled the camper easily. I just bought my X17z the other day and take delivery on Friday. I have a 2015 Pathfinder, and found that it only has a payload capacity of 1150 lbs, despite having a towing capacity of 5,000 lbs. That doesn't leave a lot left over after passengers, hitch weight, WD, etc. I figure I've got enough payload capacity left over in the Pathfinder for a loaded ice chest, and everything else will have to go into the camper, which only has a CCC of 715 lbs. Should be fine, so long as we don't go crazy with cargo.
Congrats on your purchase! We’ve taken the trailer out 3 times so far. It’s just my wife & two kiddos (5 & 2 years old), so I haven’t paid much attention to the payload capacity. That being said, all the cargo goes into the camper and we leave the trunk open for last minute groceries, firewood etc. When loading the camper, I try to put as much stuff behind the axle, utilizing the shower & bathroom the most. Surprisingly, sans liquids, bikes, blankets, utensils etc. don’t weight that much, so you should be fine. Unless you are bringing your barbells to work out at the campsite.

Manufacturers always build in tolerances to their max ratings, so the way I’ve always looked at it when at the max for all my cars, just be careful (leave earlier, drive slower, brake sooner, ensure tire pressure is optimal etc.) and you’ll be fine. Happy camping!
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Old 09-26-2016, 11:21 AM   #37
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Congrats on your purchase! We’ve taken the trailer out 3 times so far. It’s just my wife & two kiddos (5 & 2 years old), so I haven’t paid much attention to the payload capacity. That being said, all the cargo goes into the camper and we leave the trunk open for last minute groceries, firewood etc. When loading the camper, I try to put as much stuff behind the axle, utilizing the shower & bathroom the most. Surprisingly, sans liquids, bikes, blankets, utensils etc. don’t weight that much, so you should be fine. Unless you are bringing your barbells to work out at the campsite.

Manufacturers always build in tolerances to their max ratings, so the way I’ve always looked at it when at the max for all my cars, just be careful (leave earlier, drive slower, brake sooner, ensure tire pressure is optimal etc.) and you’ll be fine. Happy camping!
Thanks for the info. Very reassuring. I had definitely planned to load up the bathroom with gear, if only because it won't slide around the camper while we're on the road. It's great to have someone else on here with the same towing and camper setup that I have.
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Old 09-26-2016, 11:41 AM   #38
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[QUOTE=madflava;447386]2: Our roof AC unit also has a "Optional Heat" setting. When I set it to that setting and turn the temp on hot, it doesn't blow out hot air. Is it supposed to blow hot air?
QUOTE]

You need to add the heating element. It does not come with. I think I paid about $50 on Amazon for mine. Really easy install.

It is just a simple electric heating element. If I recall it is only about 500 watts, about 1/3 of my ceramic heater I put on the counter.

Its good enough to take a little chill out of the air, but not really good enough to really heat a hybrid.
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Old 09-26-2016, 12:02 PM   #39
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[QUOTE=Jagiven;452460]
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2: Our roof AC unit also has a "Optional Heat" setting. When I set it to that setting and turn the temp on hot, it doesn't blow out hot air. Is it supposed to blow hot air?
QUOTE]

You need to add the heating element. It does not come with. I think I paid about $50 on Amazon for mine. Really easy install.

It is just a simple electric heating element. If I recall it is only about 500 watts, about 1/3 of my ceramic heater I put on the counter.

Its good enough to take a little chill out of the air, but not really good enough to really heat a hybrid.
Thank you sir! I'll check it out....
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Old 09-27-2016, 08:23 AM   #40
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[QUOTE=Jagiven;452460]
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2: Our roof AC unit also has a "Optional Heat" setting. When I set it to that setting and turn the temp on hot, it doesn't blow out hot air. Is it supposed to blow hot air?
QUOTE]

You need to add the heating element. It does not come with. I think I paid about $50 on Amazon for mine. Really easy install.

It is just a simple electric heating element. If I recall it is only about 500 watts, about 1/3 of my ceramic heater I put on the counter.

Its good enough to take a little chill out of the air, but not really good enough to really heat a hybrid.
I have a 2012, and the A/C has a knob from red/blue. I turn it to red(heat), and there is no heat.

You say there is something I can install in the A/C to add heat!???

Typically I bring little 'electric desktop heaters' to help supplement with the furnace....but I think the A/C heat would be nice. Along, with the noise to help me sleep.
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